Ritter disaster

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AUSA66

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I think the people that ended up with a usable Ritter block were lucky.
I have a 340 mains 59 9.6 deck it seems like 1 problem after another babbit bearing bores are all tapered in at the rear of every hole had to have the cam tunnel trued up
Then went to assemble only to find the inner cooling holes have about 50 thou seal with 18 Bolt cometics
These are the untouched original casting holes
Using a Felpro 1008 you can see into the water holes it dont even cover the edge of the hole
Kent said he would check it out that was the end of that never come back obliviously he knew the block had serious core movement so had the block plugged on the 2 holes then refaced that was that problem solved .
Reassembled screwed all the ARP studs to the bottom of thread then backed off slightly 2 of the studs ripped out at 90 Ft lbs not deep enough also the oil pump mounting surface was way off level & the pump wouldn't fit.
Another issue was the centre thrust cap was 8 thou thicker than the bottom so when the caps were tightened it would lock the crank tight.
This is from his new machine shop in Indiana.
Some things to look out for if anyone is thinking of building one of these engines
Anyone else have these issues on the lastest run.
I just dont feel confident enough to waste a heap of good parts in this engine luckily i have a new tall deck R3 to use
 
AUSA66 said:
I think the people that ended up with a usable Ritter block were lucky.
I have a 340 mains 59 9.6 deck it seems like 1 problem after another babbit bearing bores are all tapered in at the rear of every hole had to have the cam tunnel trued up
Then went to assemble only to find the inner cooling holes have about 50 thou seal with 18 Bolt cometics
These are the untouched original casting holes
Using a Felpro 1008 you can see into the water holes it dont even cover the edge of the hole
Kent said he would check it out that was the end of that never come back obliviously he knew the block had serious core movement so had the block plugged on the 2 holes then refaced that was that problem solved .
Reassembled screwed all the ARP studs to the bottom of thread then backed off slightly 2 of the studs ripped out at 90 Ft lbs not deep enough also the oil pump mounting surface was way off level & the pump wouldn't fit.
Another issue was the centre thrust cap was 8 thou thicker than the bottom so when the caps were tightened it would lock the crank tight.
This is from his new machine shop in Indiana.
Some things to look out for if anyone is thinking of building one of these engines
Anyone else have these issues on the lastest run.
I just dont feel confident enough to waste a heap of good parts in this engine luckily i have a new tall deck R3 to use
Click to expand...
sorry to hear, about your r3 block, did you happen to get it from ryan at shady dell in the last 6 or 7 months did you?
 
I think 426dart is asking about the Mopar R3 block.

I’m not a much of a “small block guy”........ but with the way the current block situation is........ if I wasn’t confident that a stock 360 block would hold up to the lower levels I was looking to build........ I’d change my plans.
 
AUSA66 said:
I think the people that ended up with a usable Ritter block were lucky.
I have a 340 mains 59 9.6 deck it seems like 1 problem after another babbit bearing bores are all tapered in at the rear of every hole had to have the cam tunnel trued up
Then went to assemble only to find the inner cooling holes have about 50 thou seal with 18 Bolt cometics
These are the untouched original casting holes
Using a Felpro 1008 you can see into the water holes it dont even cover the edge of the hole
Kent said he would check it out that was the end of that never come back obliviously he knew the block had serious core movement so had the block plugged on the 2 holes then refaced that was that problem solved .
Reassembled screwed all the ARP studs to the bottom of thread then backed off slightly 2 of the studs ripped out at 90 Ft lbs not deep enough also the oil pump mounting surface was way off level & the pump wouldn't fit.
Another issue was the centre thrust cap was 8 thou thicker than the bottom so when the caps were tightened it would lock the crank tight.
This is from his new machine shop in Indiana.
Some things to look out for if anyone is thinking of building one of these engines
Anyone else have these issues on the lastest run.
I just dont feel confident enough to waste a heap of good parts in this engine luckily i have a new tall deck R3 to use
Click to expand...
Do you know what run your block is from? I think he has change a lot from his first run.
 
Sorry to hear that about your Ritter block, I must have been a lucky one on mine didnt have any issues besides getting the right roller lifters, if it mine was a 48degree block no problem just the 59 makes it a little different.
 
davescuda said:
Do you know what run your block is from? I think he has change a lot from his first run.
Click to expand...
not sure it was done about a year ago i know he done a run of 10 360 mains before mine ,mine had no 1 written on the front was shipped directly from his new machining company magna machining in indiana
 
AUSA66 said:
I think the people that ended up with a usable Ritter block were lucky.
I have a 340 mains 59 9.6 deck it seems like 1 problem after another babbit bearing bores are all tapered in at the rear of every hole had to have the cam tunnel trued up
Then went to assemble only to find the inner cooling holes have about 50 thou seal with 18 Bolt cometics
These are the untouched original casting holes
Using a Felpro 1008 you can see into the water holes it dont even cover the edge of the hole
Kent said he would check it out that was the end of that never come back obliviously he knew the block had serious core movement so had the block plugged on the 2 holes then refaced that was that problem solved .
Reassembled screwed all the ARP studs to the bottom of thread then backed off slightly 2 of the studs ripped out at 90 Ft lbs not deep enough also the oil pump mounting surface was way off level & the pump wouldn't fit.
Another issue was the centre thrust cap was 8 thou thicker than the bottom so when the caps were tightened it would lock the crank tight.
This is from his new machine shop in Indiana.
Some things to look out for if anyone is thinking of building one of these engines
Anyone else have these issues on the lastest run.
I just dont feel confident enough to waste a heap of good parts in this engine luckily i have a new tall deck R3 to use
Click to expand...

Damn
 
Trying to get my machine shop to do a run of sb mopar engines they are currently making 351 ford cleveland with many improvements pushing 1400 on the dyno so far have sold 300 to date also making pressure cast porsche flat 6 heads
They do all the design here in West australia get the blocks cast in China then returned here for all the machining.
They were going to do the aussie 308 holden screamer but the demand for the 308 is waning.
To do the design work & cast 100 blocks it costs 1/2 million Aud
He is looking for a new block that is in demand
20190627_102934.jpg
 
I gotta say: The Aussies do more performance auto stuff with a small group than just about any country in the world. I have been exposed to a lot of good Aussie parts over the decades, mainly for rally stuff. The above is good to see.

So what is taking over the 308 motors?
 
Thanks
Most of the GM Holdens were produced in the late 60,s 70,s with 253 , 308 ,327 or 350 engines so as 308's are getting harder to come by most 308 are being replaced with supermarket build 350 chebbies
 
AUSA66 said:
I think the people that ended up with a usable Ritter block were lucky.
I have a 340 mains 59 9.6 deck it seems like 1 problem after another babbit bearing bores are all tapered in at the rear of every hole had to have the cam tunnel trued up
Then went to assemble only to find the inner cooling holes have about 50 thou seal with 18 Bolt cometics
These are the untouched original casting holes
Using a Felpro 1008 you can see into the water holes it dont even cover the edge of the hole
Kent said he would check it out that was the end of that never come back obliviously he knew the block had serious core movement so had the block plugged on the 2 holes then refaced that was that problem solved .
Reassembled screwed all the ARP studs to the bottom of thread then backed off slightly 2 of the studs ripped out at 90 Ft lbs not deep enough also the oil pump mounting surface was way off level & the pump wouldn't fit.
Another issue was the centre thrust cap was 8 thou thicker than the bottom so when the caps were tightened it would lock the crank tight.
This is from his new machine shop in Indiana.
Some things to look out for if anyone is thinking of building one of these engines
Anyone else have these issues on the lastest run.
I just dont feel confident enough to waste a heap of good parts in this engine luckily i have a new tall deck R3 to use
Click to expand...
We also had to enlarge the support hole for the oil pump nub...ran into the same thing with the thrust. So far, that's the only big things...added drain backs. Should have it up and running in a few weeks with Victor heads, 13:1 on E85...looking for a modest 650HP and super streetable low lift solid roller cam.
 
It's interesting the different things everyone comes across. On mine the oil pump hole was fine just had to clearance the oil pump, I also added the drain back holes in the cam tunnel and also opened the rear drain back so it clears the oil pan gasket. Also brushed the lifter bores. Line honed everything, decked it, everything spins nicely.
 
ou812 said:
We also had to enlarge the support hole for the oil pump nub...ran into the same thing with the thrust. So far, that's the only big things...added drain backs. Should have it up and running in a few weeks with Victor heads, 13:1 on E85...looking for a modest 650HP and super streetable low lift solid roller cam.
Click to expand...
What cam & lifters did you use whas it babbit bearing 1 of the other many problems was the rear cam bearing hole was bored for a big block bearing had to sleeve down to SB
Back on track had another go at it bored the 2 stripped holes down & retapped heads torqued up OK
What head bolt kit did you use ARP has a kit marked R3/Ritter Edelbrock heads all the bolts are 1/2" instead od 1/2" & 3/8 for the inner & outer the the nuts were the large 12 Point that will not fit into the head recess looks like a guess

Ritter2.jpg
Ritter1.jpg
 
Wyrmrider said:
YT says not to use true full synthetic with alcohol (type IV and V)
Click to expand...


If you belong to speed talk and have the hot pass member ship, Mike Jones is posting at least some of the interviews Don Terrill did and was selling on CD. There are many good interviews in there and one is Trry Dyson who does oil analysis among other things. It's a two part interview and he covers tons of stuff, including oil grades and groups. Great interview.

If you are a cheep screw and can't or won't spend 20 bucks to join speed talk, you can go to Torco Racing Oils web site and under tech (IIRC) Rob Lancaster has a 4 or 5 part video series where he covers some of the same stuff.

No group IV or V oils with alcohol based fuels, unless you hate yourself.
 
Even though I have magnum head but it list 144-4203 for both magnum and W5-W7 heads 12 pt. I had to order a thin wall 9/16 deep socket to get a socket on the nuts to torque. Forgot which which heads you have.
 
ou812 said:
We used 50mm roller bearings. I had ARP send me some 1/2 bottom-7/16 top stainless studs with 12pt. nuts for the center hole, and 2 outboard holes per side. Works awesome!
Click to expand...

How was your experiences with the Ritter block? Have you done a few of them? And do they take a lot of work to be ready for use? I was considering one, but, the expense is borderline for myself. You know the old saying, You cannot exceed the speed of your wallet.
 
rumblefish360 said:
How was your experiences with the Ritter block? Have you done a few of them? And do they take a lot of work to be ready for use? I was considering one, but, the expense is borderline for myself. You know the old saying, You cannot exceed the speed of your wallet.
Click to expand...
If you can't stomach spending as much as 5K or more on a block, switch gears.
 
Is not just the block as the block can be corrected with machining in most cases its lack of supplier knowledge concerning the Ritter block
I was starting blind with this build first i ordered a set of Victor heads when i received i spoke to Kent Ritter about the inner bolt holes being drilled from the bottom up like a Hemi Kent called Edelbrock & told them they had stuffed up & that they need to be drilled down from the top after a few more conversations with Edelbrock they dropped the ball the last conversation was that yes the holes can be drilled all the way through without hitting water only problem was they were slightly out in relation to the holes in the block.
Next was the rockers called Harland Sharp & they said they had a set that they had test fitted to the Edelbrock heads & ritter block so taking their advise i went ahead & ordered only to find they had no offset & even after taking a large cut out of the pushrod holes they still wouldnt fit ended up going with .6 offset on the inlets from a different supplier.
Then come the pistons my machinist done the JE piston order sheet ordered through Rocket put down piston pin height valve pockets etc engine LA340 with Victor heads.
When they arrived the JE piston sheet had engine LA340 SB heads Victor 440 Big Block luckily the CC & pin height we ordered was correct & the valve angle was only 1 degree different after claying & checking the PV they come up good Rocket said we should have requested with the correct P/N for the head to which he replied have you ever tried putting a 440 piston into a 340 that was the end of that conversation.
Kent has been helpful until i pointed out the poor seal area on the block cooling holes due to core shift.
I think block plus the machining in Australia would come out about the same around 5K USD , Lifter bore sleeving $1250 Labour & about $450 Extra for the sleeves we must add Shipping & import tax which puts another 1800 bucks on top.
See Indiana | Machining | Casting | Design Build | Magna Machine their home page starts with a Ritter block being machined.
 
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