Rocker Arm Lengths

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Hysteric

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I'm currently trying to sort out the geometry on my heads with a 1.6 Harland Sharp rocker.

Its obvious that the shafts will need to raised dramatically as well as moved a fare way back to get it all right with a longer valve. And since i'm playing with a few sets of heads I don't want to mill the rocker stands down.

So I'm looking to buy another set of rockers that will give me a better starting point to get it right.

Can some one please give the measurements (Y) for for the Hughes and Comp magnum rockers?
Rocker-Ratio-Lrg.gif
 
The easier, cheapest way to fix it is buy a kit from B3 racing engines. It will move the shaft up and away from the valve.

You could spend a lot of time and money sorting out rocker lengths.

b3racingengines.com

He has some very good tech articles with pictures on his web page.



Edit: and lose your mind sorting out the lengths. I'm not sure how the rocker arm manufacturer decides overall length when the stands are fixed and valve lengths are variable. It's a nightmare. I used to think the longest overall rocker length for the ratio you need is the best, but I don't think that any more.

Maybe Mike will stop by and chime in on lengths and such.
 
do contact the above- pm whatever
ask him about changing the adjusters to cup style and using double ball pushrpds
many mopar rockers are just plain wrong designs,
early HS included, crane
why not as long as possible
I use the Crower backset rockers on the brand x
more down and less side to side
Thinking of longer valves when I redoo my magnums and go to a bigger valve which raises the seat- which is a good thing- do not want to sink
 
do contact the above- pm whatever
ask him about changing the adjusters to cup style and using double ball pushrpds
many mopar rockers are just plain wrong designs,
early HS included, crane
why not as long as possible
I use the Crower backset rockers on the brand x
more down and less side to side
Thinking of longer valves when I redoo my magnums and go to a bigger valve which raises the seat- which is a good thing- do not want to sink



^^^^^^^^^^This^^^^^^^^ I forget to mention converting from ball adjusters to cup adjusters. That can be a big help in getting the total geometry as good as you can.

Also, without Mikes input I'm not sure one rocker is actually a better starting point apthan another. I'm sure there is the best possible starting rocker, but I'm not sure in the end you end up with anything better.

I'd still like to hear what Mike has to to about this.
 
I got to say I was pretty happy with my Hughes rockers. that's geometry wise on stock heads. I was given the shims but didn't have to use them, just a few in the side to side.
I'm sure this doesn't help you but as a voice in for the which rocker to start with conversation.
 
WE used to re-thread the iron rockers for larger FORD (may have relocated a little too :)adjusters,
the small Mopar size just wore out
then we went to AMC lifters and oil through the pushrods and cup type adjusters
work much better
I've tried most brands of roller rockers and most are junk
I do NOT know what is current
I do know that you want to be able to make a line through the trunion and the roller tangent to the valve stem at half lift AND have the pushrod sorta in line with the line of the adjuster at half lift
if not keep looking
with roller rockers you either have to replace the stands or relocate the shafts
stands are not that hard to make

link for Rick Jones Posts on YB I'll take another look tks
 
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