Discussion in 'Small Block Mopar Engine' started by moparker, Jun 11, 2018.
Should there be any side to side movement on stock rocker arm assemblies?
There is a spec for side to side play. Like .030 but don't hold me to that number. Other guys will chime in.
I hope. I'm sure that is the irritating ticking noise I'm hearing. My retainers don't look that bad to me. I think I have more play than that.
Stock cam and valve springs? 65'
.030 is ok but if you are AR about it you can shim them to .015. That's what I do because I'm retarded like that. If you have to shim to .030 why not close it up a bit more.
You do want some side play. When the parts get warm they grow a little. Someone will know the spec. Just hold tight.
Not stock can and valve springs. I have a Lunati can with double springs.
I share the same retention...lol... I try for .010-.015... but once you tighten it back down and torque it you usually find that there's always a lil extra still. Op, Too much on a solid high lift and you will here the rocker hit the one next to it
My cam is hydraulic but, is on the larger side. I was wondering if that had anything to do with it. Could someone post pics of the shims and exactly where they placed them?
They go on the shaft between rockers as needed. Mopar Performance P3690896: Rocker Arm Spacer Set .015" Thick | JEGS
Just between the rockers and not the retainers correct? Are they metal?
Hughes Engines The MP stuff is pretty expensive for what you get.
So it's ok to use the spacers on a hydraulic set up? All the spacers kits say they are for solid cams.
Big Hyd cam check for stem tip wear and rocker pad think lash caps to spread out the load when shiming try to line up the rockers on the tips what does the tip wear pattern look like when your die the stems and turn the motor over? you want as narrow as possible throw some adjustable pushrods on it and adjust shaft height till you get narrowest pattern then check against your pushrod length- watch for leaker bleed down or use a solidized lifter--if new lifters use the MAgnum/ AMC style and hollow pushrods to save those pushrod cups in the stock rockers do the complete mid lift geometry drill- you may need shims under the shafts not only ok to use with hyd but necessary with a big cam
Spacers are fine for either. The existing spacers under the bolt heads can be moved around too. I have not ever seen a spec in this for the stamped rockers BTW. And not trying to be obtuse, but there are much more likely causes for this tapping/ticking, so make sure you look at everything: - a soft hydraulic lifter - pushrods hitting the sides of the pushrods holes due to high lift (spacers could make this worse) - retainers hitting the seals/stem guides for there same reason - rocker hitting the baffle on the underside of the valve cover
It's definitely not a lifter tick. It could be some of the causes you named. Thanks for all the input.
And FWIW.... I also suspect the loose side clearance for the stamped rockers has to do with: - The way they oil (With the stamped slot in them, there is really not the same oiling out the sides like in machined rockers.) - They won't all ride perfectly parallel to each other on the shaft. Being stamped, there is a limit to the parallelism that just can't be as good as a machined part. So some slop is necessary. Let us know if this does the trick for your tick.
You might want to do some reading on rocker arm geometry while you're at it. Click on blue box B3 Racing Engines LLC - Performance Engine Building and Mopar Valvetrains
Thanks. A friend of mine who is career mechanic has been doing some research as well. A lot of guys are having this issue. Some have found it was the thickness of the head gaskets causing the problem.
agree w/ this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I don`t have stock rockers, and use .010-.012 feelers between each rocker arm, and leave them in while tightening the shaft bolts down. Keeps things more accurate for me.
Sometimes you end up grinding on the hold downs to get it just right. All the aftermarket rocker assemblies I use come with the black spacers, I think they are about .080 thick.
Running the hydraulic lifter adjustment out of range?
Not sure what you mean. If the gaskets are to thick then there won't be as much or any tension or load on the rockers to keep them in place.
I think this is what you are meaning: There is not a lot of tension and it only comes from trapped oil in the piston that can move inside the lifter. The tension/pressure is pretty constant as the head moves up or down with gasket thickness, but the lifter's piston has a short movement/adjustment range. If the heads lift up too much, the piston can reach its upper stop and then a gap opens up between the lifter's piston, pushrod and rocker. But side shims won't change/fix that loose situation.
That's what I'm gathering as well. Gonna do some measuring soon and get a better idea of what I need to do.
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