Rocky Start Resto..

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grassy

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It was really nice in April so we knew it was time to get the ’75 Duster in the garage... it had to be cleaned out so we bought a portable garage to put the stuff ( two hours to set up with two people - right). Five hours later (with my son) we are to a point where we have installed 2*4 *10 on the bottom of the garage feet. Time for coffee. No real breeze. Came back out and the think had flipped and self-destructed. A month of letters and I got a new one.. same box.. different pieces, hmmm. Cold and monsoon rains for the next month or so. Two weeks ago, we finally set up the portable garage, emptied 20 years of stuff from the garage ..degreased, etched and painted the garage floor…put a bunch of stuff back in. I did some changes to the wiring for more light. Rather than buying tripod halogen lights, I made up a prototype of a tower of spot lights..cheaper and a bit more stable.

Also built a labeling station so everything we take off the car can be documented easily.

We finally drove or shoe horned the car into the garage..my wife convinced me years ago to cut almost 7-10 feet off the width of the garage ..bad move. Two small car doors..bigger mistake. We will have a foot or two on either end once we are able to spin the. I have built part of a wooden rotisserie with wheels so we can roll it. When I jacked up the back, I was surprised how heavy the car is.

Bumpers off..no need for penetrating oil ! Screws to remove the flap between the body and bumper.. came out with a screw driver…I am in heaven. The bumpers are perfect except where a PO changed a tire (left rear) where chrome has peeled off. What could I use so it doesn’t spread and looks relatively good. It is on the bottom of the bumper.

Next week my kids are off so I hope to get a lot done.

1) I was thing of taking the rear end/driveshaft off first. I have bought several books online to give me a “step by step” of removing the engine but all three were duds. Is there anything out there on the i’net that I can download. Would this allow us to pull off the transmission before we take out the engine or would it be better to take out both together ? I am open to suggestions. If we took out the trans first.. how could we support it so we wouldn’t damage anything when we remove ir from the engine ?

2) One thing I am really puzzling over because I have never seen it done … can you remove the engine out from the side of the car or do you have to be in front of it ?

3) Did Chrysler make two different size acorns for the 14 and 15 inch wheel ? We want to put 15 inchers on the rear and bigger chrome rings are a no brainer…but do we need different sized acorns ?? ..wouldn’t make much sense to me..

4) the “t” clips that hold the insulation to the engine bonnet. I have tried turning, pulling and swearing.. but they don’t pop out but I don’t want to break them.. how can I remove them without breaking hem ?

5) can you unclip the wiring harness at the firewall ?

6) is there any way I can remove the front suspension in one piece ?

Should have pics later this week.

All comments welcome.

Ian.
 
1) If you remove the d/shaft, you can remove the tranny with the motor in. Remove the u-joint caps at the rear. You can use a jack under the tranny for support (a larger support plate is recommended, but remember it has to have enough clearance to get it out from under the car. Pulling engine w/tranny requires cleaning up the engine bay (rad) and having to tilt the eng/trans alot to remove. Make sure you cap the tranny tailshaft or you'll be swimming in red oil. Also, the car needs to be up high enough to get the clearance. Marking and removing the hood is preferred.

2) Never tried the side, as usually the picker gets in the way of the wheel or jack.

3) I believe the inside of the rallye wheels are the same for both 14 & 15", with the outer rim being different. The two acorn sizes I am aware of were only for either 4" sbp and 4/5" lbp.

5) the bulkhead wires can be disconnected, just be careful and dont pry the upper/lower tabs too much.. they break easily.

6) Pop the torsion bars out the back, remove the lower ball joint (or the upper control arm bolts, 4 bolts on the K-member and drop as a unit. In fact, if you can raise the front of the car high enough, you can remove this assemble with the engine and trans still on it.
 
Ian please give us pics .

2) One thing I am really puzzling over because I have never seen it done … can you remove the engine out from the side of the car or do you have to be in front of it ?
I mean better way it´s in front of it
 
Here are some pics...I will post as our progress inches on. My son is playing a sport representing our province so that has been / will be taking a bunch of his time ..he is the muscles :)

Our "new" portable garage

1-X2.jpg


Light Tower

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Start of the wooden Rotisserie - a little over built buitt will take the full weight of the back of the car before it is stripped. Still m\needs the plywood so I can roll her.

3-X2.jpg


Cramped garage..

4-X2.jpg


Ian.
 
Last night, stripped the interior and took the rad and other bits off.

Today, took the rear end, springs, gas tank, prop shaft, some exhaust and part of the shocks.

Found there was a bit of bodywork on it but absolutely gobsmacked on the condition of this car..the gas tank looks new..relining it anyway.

Learned that it is better to not work in the dark under the car and look at all the nuts before you start pulling off bits.

The C-clamps on the axel were truly weird...bolts came off in different directions ??..and after playing for 20 minutes or so, cut them off.

Question about the rear shocks - the bolts holding them seem really thin..don't want to strip..anyone have this problem ?

We are pondering pulling the trans tomorrow..not with the engine.....are we nutz ?

Will post pics tomorrow.

Grassy
 
..More pics..

Exhaust..great condition
HPIM6940-L.jpg


Gas tank..slight rusrt on tome but more cover and it looks new. Going to line it anyway.

HPIM6942-L.jpg


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Interior floor..odd way to undercoat at factory
HPIM6944-L.jpg


Underside. The dark stuff looks / feels like liquid undercoating with sand or dirt added...when we scrape, it is clean

HPIM6945-L.jpg


HPIM6946-L.jpg


I somehow thought that the underside was flatter...how does one get into the nooks and crannies.

I will be removing the gas/brake lines but what do you do with all the wires when you undercoat the car with epoxy ?

Thanks
Ian.
 
..

I somehow thought that the underside was flatter...how does one get into the nooks and crannies.

An assortment of dull chisels and screwdrivers for scraping helps. These areas a pain to be sure.

I will be removing the gas/brake lines but what do you do with all the wires when you undercoat the car with epoxy ?

Aside from the fuel sending wire, I'm not sure which others there are. Wrapping them in tinfoil is an easy way to mask/unmask them..

Grant
 
I didn't see the rear light wires inside the cabin so I assume they are under. I think there may have been speaker wire from the PO as well. No matter.

Great idea.

Thank-you.
ian.
 
tail light harness runs in the trunk along the drivers side wheeltub/floor junction
 
We would like put out a "shout out" for the members of FABO that helped us with one darn hard trans bolt/removal and information/help on our successful /6 removal today. Thank-you. When the manuals pi** ya off ...we are not sure if Haynes had ever looked at a dart/duster before he or a ghost writer took up a pen..due to lack of information, we know where to find actual helpful/useful information..

A few pics: I appologize in advance for the quality

The engine ready to come out:

HPIM6970aa-L.jpg


The casters worked really well..we were able to spin the car and partialy back it out of the garage:

HPIM6967bb-L.jpg


How do you unclip the wiring harness ?

HPIM6968cc-L.jpg


We have the jack in place..we couldn't figure out how to take the last two bolts off the flex plate with the engine in so we left the converter on w/o any problems..and it just came out slick as anything:

HPIM6971ee-L.jpg


HPIM6972ff-L.jpg


Even though we thought we had drained all the coolent out, it started coming out in gushes when calum was jacking so he grabbed a rubber glove and tied it on to the port and it worked really well:

HPIM6974gg-L.jpg


Next is the front suspension and then I will attach the wooden routerissie to the front bumper. Yes, that is tar on the firewall...soft tar.

HPIM6976hh-L.jpg


More pics to come with the removal of the front suspention and the flipping/cleaning.

Grassy.
 
Lookin good guys! And it looks like the floor survived. If that tar is soft, a petroleum distallate solvent might take it off without scraping. I'd try Varsol/Mineral Spiris, then maybe Xylene/Xylol. It stinks and is definitely mask material, otherwise don't be driving :)

Grant
 
Grant,

Sounds nasty but good. Before we started, I bought a couple of really good masks from Princess Auto. Got tired of blowing black stuff out of my nose with my first resto.

I really don't think I have laughed so much since we have started. This is great therapy for me...and I truly like working with my kids...so regardless of what my wife says, it is worth every penny :) :) :)

Is Xylene/Xylol available at the local hardware store/UAP or do I need to go to a chemical place...we have one about an hour from here..bought some stuff to remove chrome. Hopefully, I will be trying it soon.

Finally getting some nice weather here....hopefully, you are catching the same..

Ian
 
It can be bought at most paint stores like Dulux or Sherwin.. it is used to reduce some industrial enamels and for cleaning same off of sprayguns. It is (or was) used in old style bug and tar removers back in the day. You'll probably recognize the smell.. It is good stuff to have around.

Having fun is what it's all about!

Summer finally hit here. We're expecting 30's tomorrow.. which we haven't even had a sniff of so far. Got a feeling business is going to be slow, but the ride in will be fast lol..

Grant
 
the first post mentions a peeling spot on the bumper- thought I would mention what I used on mine (previous owner didn't know what to expect from a 400 hp 340, I guess- put on a new fender but left the bent bumper on it).

I used a piece of chrome sign vinyl to cover the spot where the chrome had started to peel- can't even really see it, it's chrome, and it protects the area. Might do the trick.
 
I used a piece of chrome sign vinyl to cover the spot where the chrome had started to peel- can't even really see it, it's chrome, and it protects the area. Might do the trick.

Great idea. We have two sign makers in town. One may have the piece I am looking for.

Thanks, Grassy
 
Ian,

That soft tar on the firewall should come off with varsal in a spray bottle and a soft tooth brush. Then wipe it off with a rag. Thats how im getting the undercoating out of the engine bay in the Diplomat. IF you're keeping the same color, don't press too hard as you don't want to start removing the paint. Car is nice and solid:)

Matt
 
Hey Matt...noooo, the colour is history. Still arguing (in a good way) about the colour...some high impact (green/purple) or I love silver with black stripes. It is easier to say what we don't like vs what we do like ..

The hardest part about pulling the engine was getting te /6 to sit upright on the floor...

I am hoping after we drop the front suspension and after I finish/install the routissre on the front that we will wheel it outside and spray it with gunk I bought from Bebbington..wait a half hour and spray all off .

Other than some very small spots of surface rust, it is mint. We think she was tapped in the rear quarter but once we sand down, we will know for sure...it is 36 years young :)

Ian.
 
It has been an interesting week...I have had to travel a bit, my computer went south for a bit and my daughter had her wisdom teeth out...have to go back into today..problems..

Well, the last place we were was baffled by the steering couplier. With lots of help from FABO and some guts on my part to use a hammer with gusto..that darn pin did pop out.

So off to the races again.

A member suggested using a tire on a dolly so off to Princess auto and they had 300 pound rated wheels on sale..a good omen..borrowed a tire and placed under car and dropped it down.

HPIM6992ee-L.jpg


My son taking the k-frame bolts off..

HPIM6991ff-L.jpg


Everything came off as it should..no strain on the bolts however, with a floor jack, we could not get the car high enough to pull the k-frame out so we had to take it off the dolly and pull it out manually but here is the car sans engine.

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Then I installed the wooden frame on the bumber mounts.

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Front gear back on dolly..btw, the base of the dolly is cherry...ya use what ya got :)

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Lastly, I am surprised how heavy the shell of the car is...more later..

Grassy
 
Awsome Ian..........Great to see your progress.........Keep going all is looking good. Mines up ........no cash ....its going to be along time before i do anything more to my Dart. Take care...........Edd
 
Edd,

Deeply sorry to hear this...Carol is keeping me in line but I also find working with my kids is good for what ails me.

If I can help you in any way, please just ask.

Ian.
 
For a moment I thought Ashton Kutcher was on our forum. This is what happens when i dont got nuff coffee in me.
 
..I read a quote the other day than went something like this..it is funny how one moment can change millions of moments after it...

I keep that one tucked in back of my head...PM me when you start again..keep the faith.

Ian.
 
Not much today....took the V8 into a machine shop for a lookse and to have it broken in..the new rebuild hasn't been run for at least 3 years..if there is a problem, i don't want to be playing with it after the install.

Also bought some nasty 2 pack ? epoxy which I suspect I will be using tomorrow..

ian.
 
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