Rotor Bearings and Seals

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Aaron.M

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I'm not sure if I'm just not getting it but my 74 Valiant rotor bearings dont look proper. In this picture you can see there is no rollers or anything on this bearing. I thought the bearing had just fallen apart but no pieces came out with it and the other rotor is the same. The new bearings I bought are not similar.

Also, do these seals just hammer out from the top?

20191209_185909.jpg


20191209_185700.jpg
 
clean clean 1st you have to take out the inner bearing and seal I use a cut off broom handle or a old hammer handle. grease well and be careful on installing the seal
 
That pic is showing the inner race of the tapered bearing. Once the seal is out, flip the rotor over and remove the bearing.
 
The inner race is attached to the bearing assy.
-The outter race, replace if the surface is pitted or not smooth.
-Flip rotor over and you should feel the two "D" cut areas where you can drive (tap) a brass punch and catch the race to pop it out the rear.
- Tap in the new outter race the way the old one came out. Tapping w brass punch, around evenly until its full seated. You will know its fully seated when the hammer gives a solid "kick back".
Good luck.
 
Yes, outter race is pressed into rotor housing. Easily replaced.
In the day, we would leave the rotor on the car, remove the nut, remove the washer and outter bearing, thread on the nut a few turns and yank the rotor off....removing the seal and inner bearing assy. Its on the spindle. Then clean grease off everything before replacing.
It was quicker than fiddling with removing the seal.
 
Inner race is one with the bearing, the outter race is seperate.
Its kinda self explanatory if u see the new bearing assy.
 
I'll yank the seal out tonight and pull out the bearing and show a comparison picture of the new one and the old one.
 
Old school. Easy.
Dont reuse inner race. Manufacturer tolerances may differ and could cause premature failure.
 
True. Moog used to be the only player, now theres many variations.
 
We used to call these "cups" and "cones." the outer ring is driven (press fit with punch or driver tool) into the rotor hub. The inner "cone" is the inner race with a cage which retains the bearings. You need to get the seal out, various ways. There exists seal remover tools which resemble a tiny crowbar. Sometimes you can use a claw hammer, very large screwdriver with a block for a pry point, or if you are careful, reach through from the front and pop them out with a punch/ screwdriver. Be careful you do not damage the inner cone.
 
I have it sorted out now. I made the mistake of thinking the bearing ran on the spindle for some reason not thinking it through clear enough. I was looking for rollers on the inside of the bearing in the picture. I took the seal out with a claw hammer and everything looks good, just very dirty.
 
Good. To reiterate...Just clean (or replace) the bearings w solvents, dry, and pack w grease. Lightly grease the clean spindle since the inner race actaully "creeps" around the spindle too. Place the rear, or larger bearing, inside the rotor, tap in the new seal. Place rotor back on spindle, hold rotor and place freshly packed front (smaller) bearing onto spindle, it will slide into rotor. While supporting rotor, slide washer onto threaded spindle and spin nut on, tighten nut while turning rotor.
Tighten fully with plumbing pliers to pre-load bearings, ensure the rear seal is seated and the rotor is not moving in and out. Rotor will spin.
Back off nut til loose, then hand tighten, which is equivalent to the 11 inch pounds of tourque required.
Place castle nut, (if equipped) then slide in cotter pin thru hole in spindle. Bend over one side of the cotter pin and cut the long end with side cutters...always go tighter to line up hole in spindle with castle nut.
Lightly tap on cap until seated and spin rotor.
Re assemble disc breaks. Install tire.
All done.
 
Joey4speed said:
Good. To reiterate...Just clean (or replace) the bearings w solvents, dry, and pack w grease. Lightly grease the clean spindle since the inner race actaully "creeps" around the spindle too. Place the rear, or larger bearing, inside the rotor, tap in the new seal. Place rotor back on spindle, hold rotor and place freshly packed front (smaller) bearing onto spindle, it will slide into rotor. While supporting rotor, slide washer onto threaded spindle and spin nut on, tighten nut while turning rotor.
Tighten fully with plumbing pliers to pre-load bearings, ensure the rear seal is seated and the rotor is not moving in and out. Rotor will spin.
Back off nut til loose, then hand tighten, which is equivalent to the 11 inch pounds of tourque required.
Place castle nut, (if equipped) then slide in cotter pin thru hole in spindle. Bend over one side of the cotter pin and cut the long end with side cutters...always go tighter to line up hole in spindle with castle nut.
Lightly tap on cap until seated and spin rotor.
Re assemble disc breaks. Install tire.
All done.
Click to expand...

When you say tighten fully, how tight you talking?
 
Tighten with pliers, as snug as you can make it, without marring up the nut. This will ensure everything inside is seated properly.
Then back off fully, and turn nut to hand tight, wothout pliers (thats as tight as your fingers can tighten the nut). Thats it.
Insert cotter pin (stops the nut from loosening over time).
Hope it helps
 
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