round two low idel

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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ok So i bit and bought the new cam....It has way more vacuum then the last cam, but the problem is that I still have a 400 rpm drop...Should I still be running a locked out distrib? or should i put all the mechanical stuff back in? In park the idle is at 1000 and in gear it drops to 600-700 mostly 650...I have the initial at what I believe is 22-24 when I rev the car to 1500, because I put all the mechanical stuff back in the distrib. timing is at 40 which means 18 mechanical 22 initial...which I know is too much, but im worrying only about the initial...should I put more in? or what I have around 15psi of vac in gear, but still the rpm drop is quite big
 
well thats not kool...because if crack. doesnt come back because of what happen then whos going to help...I know hes prolly going to say put more initial into it, but I dont know because its a much smaller cam. Im going to try and do a better job of listening and doing instead of questioning this time.
 
My carb builder had drilled a couple little 1/16 holes in my secondarie plates(more air)try1100rpm at idle.What lift cam?34-36 maybe better for your setup.
 
74Burntorange said:
I have the initial at what I believe is 22-24 when I rev the car to 1500, because I put all the mechanical stuff back in the distrib.
Click to expand...


We went round and round on this for DAYS last time. We all beat our heads against the wall.

Do you have a timing light (IN YOUR HAND, not in a friends car, not at the house of a guy the neighbor knows, not being borrowed by the boyfriend of your sisters hot friend, but IN YOUR HAND)?

Is your choke fully open?

Are you doing the settings with the vacuum advance disconnected and port on the carb plugged?


If you answer "NO" to any of those, I would rather go shoot myself than do this again.
 
I have the timing light.. I have no choke and i have no vac advance..
 
bump...??? I would hope cracked would come to this one since hes the one that told me to get a smaller cam...and 70aarcuda and moper..
 
I guess im going to do what I did last time and put as much initial as possible till I cant start it then mess with the carb......
 
I don't think you needed to change your cam.

Its all a matter of setting your timing and adjusting your curb idle. It is very easy to do but a bit harder to explain. If I was there I could have it done in about 5 minutes,
 
I already changed my cam from the last time I asked this question, and I thought this would have been solved by changing it
 
Put it at 24 initial and 34 total with a bigger bushing and tune it from there.

I hope you degreed the cam.

This is the ONLY post I'll make here.

I didn't think you really needed to change cams per se. Other suggested it and I finally thought it might be a good idea, don't put that decision on me!

Have fun, light the bridge ablaze!
 
Is there a way to make my own bushing to limit mechanical?
 
IMO, you have too much initial and I'm SURE the carb needs to be properly tuned, which is really why the rpm is dropping now. I would find a local carb guy that can help you with it (doesnt have to be Mopar guy). I don't think trying to give directions over an open forum will work here. We tried that and there were too many cooks in the kitchen.
 
ok, I was just going to give it as much initial as possible until I got stater kick back again, then get a bigger bushing to limit mechanical too around 10 or just lock it out...
 
it has 24 initial.. i think im just going to lock it out at 34 and run it like that. runs better now with 24initial and the carb tuned....I do have a noise that sounds like poping at idle...dont know what it could be
 
How much initial will it start with? 'hot of corse'

this is important.

what else is important here for us, is to know you are on the same page by using the correct terms.


when you 'lock out' a distributor the timing is wherever you set it with the time light and will not change with rpm but only by distributor adjustment, as in no more centrifical advance.

I had to grind down a nut [made my own bushing] in order to get the curve of 8* [my setup 26*initial-34*ful all in by 2200rpm blue/silver spring in a MSD pro billet distributor.
 
If you are seeing any specks on the plugs you had better get it right in a hurry.
 
Please note. This entire thread is about setting curb idle.

He can't get his car to idle right.

He does not like the RPM drop when he shifts from park to drive.

He does not have a vacuum advance and his total mechanical shouldn't matter when setting curb idle.
 
I have 24 initial and it starts up fine And i know what locking it out means. I called my builder and he said instead of buying the bushing that if i can start the car with 32-34 that i should just lock it out. Also the popping sound is at 1k rpm in park. And its not constant. Its every once inawhile. What could this be?
 
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