Running Hot?

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Heres a pic of the fan and shroud set up.

View attachment 1715358772
Not the most efficient design shroud but absolutely good enough to get the job done for most situations. You can spend a lot of energy trying to make that fan and shroud combo a little more efficient and get maybe an additional 5 degrees.
I'd look at some of the other suggestions for reducing temps more significantly.
 
You had me until the flex fan...

I've seen and heard about flex fans coming apart... I would not use one...

Other than that, I agree with what you said...
Well thanks...
I've run it for ..****, since 2006.

People hear a lot of things...and a lot of things used be made like **** or out of ****. Trial and error was at the race track and even the factory production line with poor designs.. Dont you remember those green fiberglass fans back in the late 70's and eighties? Those came apart all the time being that they were made out if the same green fiberglass you old lawn shed was made of. I think stories get confused and others just use a poor/cheap product.
Things change and you learn something new every day whether you realize it or not.
 
Well thanks...
I've run it for ..****, since 2006.

People hear a lot of things...and a lot of things used be made like **** or out of ****. Trial and error was at the race track and even the factory production line with poor designs.. Dont you remember those green fiberglass fans back in the late 70's and eighties? Those came apart all the time being that they were made out if the same green fiberglass you old lawn shed was made of. I think stories get confused and others just use a poor/cheap product.
Things change and you learn something new every day whether you realize it or not.


Damn, if you are old enough to remember lawn sheds made of green fiberglass you are at least as old as I am. And that's damn old.
 
Damn, if you are old enough to remember lawn sheds made of green fiberglass you are at least as old as I am. And that's damn old.

****, you're old...

Happy Birthday ****.jpg
 
Well thanks...
I've run it for ..****, since 2006.

People hear a lot of things...and a lot of things used be made like **** or out of ****. Trial and error was at the race track and even the factory production line with poor designs.. Dont you remember those green fiberglass fans back in the late 70's and eighties? Those came apart all the time being that they were made out if the same green fiberglass you old lawn shed was made of. I think stories get confused and others just use a poor/cheap product.
Things change and you learn something new every day whether you realize it or not.

Yep, that's what popped in my mind when I saw flex fan... Those old green flex fans...
 
Not the most efficient design shroud but absolutely good enough to get the job done for most situations. You can spend a lot of energy trying to make that fan and shroud combo a little more efficient and get maybe an additional 5 degrees.
I'd look at some of the other suggestions for reducing temps more significantly.

I think he should fix the fan and shroud before throwing money at a new radiator...

Bringing the fan back some to get it out of the shroud will help...
 
51John, I would like to see you remove the shroud and do nothing else and see how it runs. Also what are you using as a temp guage?
 
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I said '$350 at most' You are correct. At the bottom end of the price range, you can get a radiator that can get the job done at $159. The reason I don't brag about $159 radiators are;
1. Sometimes they don't get the job done.
2. Sometimes they don't fit
3. sometimes they don't last
4. some owners don't like putting a radiator in their car that looks like it was made in someone basement.
5. Cold Case doesn't make such a radiator.. ;)

All true, which is why I always recommend Griffin.
 
True. But, if you had the choice and it wasn't a full blown resto, what would you choose, a copper/brass or aluminum radiator? Just curious, because I've been told a correctly built copper/brass radiator will actually cool better than aluminum, it just costs more and is heavier.

I've seen this said before too and I think it's inaccurate. I think a better way to say it is, brass/copper cools differently than aluminum. Obviously aluminum gets the job done, because that's what all the new cars and trucks have gone to.
 
Your problem is that you capped off the heater hose pipe on the water pump instead of connecting it directly to the intake, you are stopping flow which will aid you in cooling. Connect the the water pump pipe to the intake manifold pipe with a 5/8 hose U shape and see how it runs, either thats your problem or your running leaning/timing issue, your cooling system is looks good. check your thermo run 180degrees
 
Another pic. The fan is definitely mostly 'inside' the shroud.. Removing the spacer seems like it would bring it all the way outside..
SAM_0571.JPG
SAM_0573.JPG

51John, I would like to see you remove the shroud and do nothing else and see how it runs. Also what are you using as a temp guage?
Aftermarket bosch temp gauge.
 
Your problem is that you capped off the heater hose pipe on the water pump instead of connecting it directly to the intake, you are stopping flow which will aid you in cooling. Connect the the water pump pipe to the intake manifold pipe with a 5/8 hose U shape and see how it runs, either thats your problem or your running leaning/timing issue, your cooling system is looks good. check your thermo run 180degrees[/QUOT
 
I admit I did not read all the remarks, but I will also say, check the size of the pulleys, that can often be a problem with mismatched parts. It can make a difference. Many time these engines have been rebuilt from missing and mis matched parts. Having the under hood seal can be a factor. Maybe your model did not have one, don't remember.
 
I think he should fix the fan and shroud before throwing money at a new radiator...

Bringing the fan back some to get it out of the shroud will help...
I never recommended purchasing a new radiator. There were several other good suggestions beside getting a new radiator. Which I never recommended in the first place. :)

Just because we make radiators doesn't mean that's all I'm going to recommend. I've contributed plenty of advice that does not include a new radiator. However, I've been up to my ears in this business for a lot of years. When I recommend a radiator, it's because that's the path of least resistance and least cost with the highest probability of solving the problem. And even if I do that, it doesnt' mean readers have to purchase ours. Just saying. :)
 
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