Rust dip success stories?

-
pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
Joined
Oct 13, 2004
Messages
23,821
Reaction score
13,677
Location
Tustin, CA
Quite a few on the market, Chelation is the most common type, ie Evaporust. Anyone got great results from these? Brands? I wanna soak a crank so Im gonna need about 2 gallons. I had some evaporust but it turned black and didnt work anymore over time.
 
I've played with acids (weak and strong) and didn't like the post flash rust or constant checking of the surface. "..Unlike most acids, Evapo-Rust will not damage the underlying iron or steel if the object is left soaking too long..."
 
I soaked my 400 crank in vinegar overnight and it looked like new.
 
pishta said:
Quite a few on the market, Chelation is the most common type, ie Evaporust. Anyone got great results from these? Brands? I wanna soak a crank so Im gonna need about 2 gallons. I had some evaporust but it turned black and didnt work anymore over time.
Click to expand...

EvapoRust was go-to on small parts. Soaked according to the directions in a plastic tub.
 
I like evaporust, it will not etch the surface of the metal. It must be totally clean of oil and grease first.

The vinegar will etch the surface if you leave it in too long. But the length of time is different for different metals amd different temperature.
 
Last edited:
Evaporust is an amazing product. Not cheap. Especially if you are buying it by the barrel.
I’m getting a little off track here but, I’ve read stories of people doing whole cars with Evaporust.
They recirculate it in a swimming pool.
 
Did my K/H calipers in vinegar. Worked like a champ.....and cheap. After the soak, I gave them a quick scrub with a plasic brush as I rinsed them and they were like brand new.
 
bead blast and polish? I just got my block and crank back from the engine shop...still in shock lol
 
I tried vinegar and it didn't do ****. I think Maybe the crank still had some oils on it. It's cheap enough to try again.
 
You have to absolutely degrease first for any of them to work worth a darn. Evaporust made a 8 3/4 yoke look new for me.
 
I have an electrolysis tank I made from a 5 g bucket. Used graphite sacrificial anodes, water/washing soda medium and a battery charger. You have to have it hooked up right, plenty of vids on YouTube. Run it overnight and good bye rust dirt paint whatever. Learning curve to it, but it works. No corrosive medium.
 
ch1ll said:
I have an electrolysis tank I made from a 5 g bucket. Used graphite sacrificial anodes, water/washing soda medium and a battery charger. You have to have it hooked up right, plenty of vids on YouTube. Run it overnight and good bye rust dirt paint whatever. Learning curve to it, but it works. No corrosive medium.
Click to expand...
Ill blast chrome right off a wrench too if you have it hooked backwards. Use the chrome wrench as the anode. I did a cylinder head as described and I didn't have much luck with it. Used SS as the anode.
 
I've written about this several time on this forum before, but I use Sulfated farm grade molasses from the farm store and water mixed at a 6 to 1 ratio. Unlike using acid based solutions that eat on every square inch of metal the molasses only eats on the rust. Here's a result after letting the parts soak for a week.

Tom

100_9555.JPG


100_9560.JPG
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
I've written about this several time on this forum before, but I use Sulfated farm grade molasses from the farm store and water mixed at a 6 to 1 ratio. Unlike using acid based solutions that eat on every square inch of metal the molasses only eats on the rust. Here's a result after letting the parts soak for a week.

Tom

View attachment 1716010927

View attachment 1716010928
Click to expand...
I hear it stinks. As in smells bad.
 
Things I have found that help the electrolysis process. Use hot water for the medium mixed with washing soda. Non pulsing dc power supplies (laboratory grade) work better than a battery charger. When using a battery charger, You can stop the pulsing by hooking up a car battery between the anode and electrode. Use graphite for your sacrificial anode, the bigger the better. I have 4 around the perimeter of the bucket 2x4x1/4 in size. Graphite will degrade slower than steel and will not have scum buildup on top of the water medium. Never use or derust chrome plated objects, it produces toxic and carcinogenic gases. Hexavalent chromium.
 
I just used a product called Rustoleum Krud Kutter rust remover and inhibitor on a rusty oil pan. Its a spray gel so it clings. After an hour most of it was back to bare metal. The rest had a black coating with scraped off. I was impressed!
 
I used vinegar to get the rust off a slant exhaust manifold and a set of shorty headers. They both are such an odd shape I was looking at gallons and gallons to immerse the part. I solved the problem by putting the part in a very large heavy duty trash bag, then stuck that in a trash can. I filled the can (bag held up in the middle) with water which left the bag pushed tight around the part. It took only a little over a gallon to fill the inside of the bag, and did a great job getting them clean.
 
pishta said:
I've played with acids (weak and strong) and didn't like the post flash rust or constant checking of the surface. "..Unlike most acids, Evapo-Rust will not damage the underlying iron or steel if the object is left soaking too long..."
Click to expand...
I don’t know about that. I let a set of pushrods soak in Evapo-Rust, with about an inch of the pushrods protruding from the liquid and there was a definite mark at the liquid line where metal had gone away. They say probably 4 days or so.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top