sandblast the whole car???

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Slappy

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How bad would it be to sandblast my whole car? Is this a good or bad thing to do. I am considering this as an option. I have been quoted 1800.00 to soda blast my car.
 
Nice job. I plan on stripping car to just a shell. Not sure what to do. I can have the car sandblasted for a third of what it costs for soda blasting.
 
An experienced blaster will not warp the panels. Just has to be stripped to the bare bones first, and a whole lot of blowin out the sand in the panels after
 
The guy that's gonna paint my 68 Cuda wanted me to strip her down , remove all trim, interior , glass , etc .
Then he will have all the under carriage , engine bay , interior panels , floor boards, door jambs etc sand blasted. All the double panel stuff .
He would then epoxy primer what it stripped .
Paint would then go on the undercarriage , interior , door jambs , window channels , engine bay etc.
I would then bring the car home and put the interior glass , running gear and most of the trim back on .
When Im ready for body work and paint , I'll take it back
This way when the body works done and the cars painted , we wont have to worry about chipping , scratching the paint with the trim.
I don't have a quote on the sand blasting yet , but I do have the car 90% stripped.
He told me not to sand blast the sheet metal panels, he would rather sand it .

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I wouldn't sandblast the outer sheet metal. The jambs, engine bay, trunk, window frames and floor boards are fine and if you have lower quarter rust then cut it out first and blast that area but it's to big of a risk to blast the outer sheet metal, good stripper works better to remove paint anyway and won't get the metal hot like sandblasting will.
 
In my experience. The metal seems to surface rust pretty quickly after blasting. I like simply using a DA, paint remover, and a wire wheel. Have never gotten a car dipped before but it is pretty comparable in price.
 
Blasting tecnology has come a long way as we gain more experience with different mediums. Sand seemed good in the beginning. The heat generated by sand will warp larger panels. Even if you adjust your technic, the sand leaves a rough surface that all good painters hate. Mediums like the soda, produce less heat, and a smooth surface. After blasting, the car must be immediately sprayed with heavy duty sealer-primer, or delivered to the body shop for work. Out here in California, I just had my '68 cuda done, inside and out,complete, cost me $2000.
 
I guess thats the going rate. I was told 1800.00 for soda blasting.
 
If the person doing the sand blasting doesn't really know what there doing they will spend to much time in one panel and it will heat the metal and can distort it. Be very very careful going that route. Even though it takes forever I usually take a wire wheel such as this one on a grinder. It takes everything away and will not distort or mess with the metal. Takes awhile but it gets the job done and it sure ain't $1,800.
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Blasting tecnology has come a long way as we gain more experience with different mediums. Sand seemed good in the beginning. The heat generated by sand will warp larger panels. Even if you adjust your technic, the sand leaves a rough surface that all good painters hate. Mediums like the soda, produce less heat, and a smooth surface. After blasting, the car must be immediately sprayed with heavy duty sealer-primer, or delivered to the body shop for work. Out here in California, I just had my '68 cuda done, inside and out,complete, cost me $2000.

Hey Murray, where did you take your car to get blasted? I am located in Gilroy! 30 minutes from you!
 
Mopardude-There is San Benito Sandblasting near you, but it has gotten mixed reviews around here. The body shop I am currently using swears by a guy in Sacramento. His work was great! All paint, rust, bondo- gone. Smooth clean surface. Very professional place. I will look up his address and get back to you.
 
The guy that's gonna paint my 68 Cuda wanted me to strip her down , remove all trim, interior , glass , etc .
Then he will have all the under carriage , engine bay , interior panels , floor boards, door jambs etc sand blasted. All the double panel stuff .
He would then epoxy primer what it stripped .
Paint would then go on the undercarriage , interior , door jambs , window channels , engine bay etc.
I would then bring the car home and put the interior glass , running gear and most of the trim back on .
When Im ready for body work and paint , I'll take it back
This way when the body works done and the cars painted , we wont have to worry about chipping , scratching the paint with the trim.
I don't have a quote on the sand blasting yet , but I do have the car 90% stripped.
He told me not to sand blast the sheet metal panels, he would rather sand it .

Sounds like way too much hassle for a backwards job, find another shop who will strip the whole car and do it all at once, no paint lines,no oversparay and a much cleaner job, if they can't put a car back together without scratches and chips,they shouldn't be working in a body shop, but that's just my opinion


Stefan
 
I had my Duster media blasted. Sand was used on the bottom of the car and some other type of media was used on the remainder. It was $900 to blast everything and another $300 to put into epoxy primer.

Nothing was warped.
 
my buddies coronet just back from the soda blaster. go for it man. even if it gets some surface rust on it, you just da it down and put the car in epoxy prime. i think th etime savings is well worth the money



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I hope you guys know, that after sodablasting the metal must be neutralized ,otherwise you will have all you primer,filler and paint coming off in sheets,you can not just wipe with prep solvent and shoot primer
 
Anytime you are going to repaint a car you should take it down to bare metal. Most good blasting shops use crushed walnut shells(won't warp panels) I have personally found that you can sandblast any jamb panel, engine compartment, and trunk with any plain old sandblaster and not warp the panel. But don't try it on any outer exterior panel it will warp it. I think if a guy has the room to do his own panel stripping, weather its chemical or sanding, you could save yourself $1800 large that you could put toward something else on the car
 
Mopardude-There is San Benito Sandblasting near you, but it has gotten mixed reviews around here. The body shop I am currently using swears by a guy in Sacramento. His work was great! All paint, rust, bondo- gone. Smooth clean surface. Very professional place. I will look up his address and get back to you.

San Benito Sandblasting has been out of business for a few years now...I am interested in the shop that did your car as my car is ready to be blasted. What body shop are you using, and are you happy with them?
 
Another new way to blast a car is with dry ice. It leaves no nothing but what you removed from the car. And it keeps the car cool. It's the only way to go.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ktvKy_5xzA"]YouTube- Automotive / Car - IceTech Dry Ice Blasting[/ame]
 
Here's another video of the process.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UQXeDGU7Do&feature=player_embedded"]YouTube- Dry ice blasting vs Sandblasting[/ame]
 
Would be "cool" to use at home. Wonder how much ice you would need to do a body? Wonder if you can reclaim the media for resuse lol.

Grant
 
For knowledge how do you prevent warping the panels?

Never blast at a 90 deg angle.Always keep the blaster at a good slant to the panel. I use a tecnique I call wafting,where the blaster is kept a fair ways away from the panel and never stays in one place too long.

Here is a great hint for you if you want to use sand.Dont! Buy glass grit and use it. It cuts much faster and will reduce heat in the panel as a result.
 
Would be "cool" to use at home. Wonder how much ice you would need to do a body? Wonder if you can reclaim the media for resuse lol.

Grant

You can't reclaim it, it disappers. Leaving only what you removed.
 
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