hyup 340 all the way. Faaar less hassles. A lil less torque than the 383 perhaps, but at 300plus less pounds than a 2nd gen, and for a streeter, it would be all you need. Especially with a 3.09 low 4-speed. With that box you can run 3.55s and have a fine street-fighter. With a modest cam,and 3.23s a fine cruiser and weekend bomber.
As to the flywheel;
I like the heavy factory flywheel with this combo, cuz it becomes a dump it and go deal; none of the old Mustanginess to it. You know;the rev it up and slip it out so you don't stall the 5.0, granny; routine. I like blip/dump/drive; the Mopar way.
As to the clutch;
For a streeter at your weight any old 10.5 will work. I kinda fell in love with a diaphragm this time 'round tho. I got a CenterForce.But the CF-IIDisc was too aggressive for me, and kept breaking stuff behind it.So I swapped to a factory 340 organic disc. That was much better but those discs don't last all that long. Still, it's better than busting stuff. Stuff like the 3.09 overdrive box, the 8.75 rears, the U-joints and such, all of which leave you walking when they happen. A wonkey disc will still let you drive home. At least they have always taken me home. My disc-failures have all been; spit out springs, shredded friction material, and cracked hubs; in that order. I like the CF and organic disc for its easy to modulate engagement, easy pedal, and it takes a licking. I did reduce the static pressure by shimming it away from the flywheel, I forget how much,it was the thickness of some hardened washers I had laying around. This let it slip a bit at low rpm. But the flyweights were more than adequate to clamp it after 2500. This made it a lot more passenger friendly.
What I don't like about the CF is that at my cruising rpm of 2260, the flyweights don't always park properly, and then I get a vibration. A blip or two on the throttle usually clears it up.... but it's still a nuisance. The B&B is built different and never did that. That is the only complaint. The CFII disc took a heck of a beating while it was in there, and came out hardly touched. Ima thinking the PP has about 80,000 on it and is still going.
As to the clutch linkage
It has to be a matched set; everything from the pedals to the fork, it's pivot, and the bellhouse. There are three sets of some of those parts, namely slanty/273, SBM, and BB. Some parts swap between small and BB with the 10.5 clutch. But you will have to shelf or modify any/all of the slanty stuff.
As to headers
Hooker makes, what in theory looks like, a nice set up for the SBM, with some tubes going down on the inside of the frame and one/some on the outside. I have no experience with those. But I would make those work, whatever it takes.
