Scarebird Brakes

-
A

Alabama Dart

Active Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Messages
39
Reaction score
1
Location
Mobile Alabama
Anyone put these on a 1970 dart ?
It calls for a Toyota previa rotor
Do you use your stock bearings or something else
Any help would be great
 
Go on their website. It shows exactly how to install. They are actually pretty easy according to people I have spoken to that have them. They did a lot of research in insure that the parts they say will fit with minimal problems. JMO
 
Yea been there it does not say anything about bearings I have the parts from them instructions does not cover bearings so I guess you use the stock 1970 dart ones.
Thanks for your reply
 
You use the existing hub. Similar install to rear disc slipping over studs.
 
We did it to Jake's 65. Use the correct bearings for the Dart's hubs. It all fits behind 14" rallye wheels witn no clearance issues. He's got about 3k miles on it since, and have had no issues.
 
Brake stuff with "scare" in the name. Hmmmmmmmmm.......
 
That's what you drill them. 4" patteren. Small bolt pattern. That's the whole idea behind them. Give ya reliable affordable small bolt disc brakes. If going to big bolt you would just use factory stuff.
 
Scarebird will drill the rotors to sbp for you, for a fee, and they do provide a paper drilling template.

Has anyone found better Previa calipers that interchange, say aluminum ones?

Post #10 is first I heard that the same brackets fit for 9 & 10" drum spindles. Nice since my Valiant is 9", but I might want to go to 10" someday for stronger bearings (both 9" outer bearings spun in my 69 Dart years ago).
 
BillGrissom said:
Scarebird will drill the rotors to sbp for you, for a fee, and they do provide a paper drilling template.

Has anyone found better Previa calipers that interchange, say aluminum ones?

Post #10 is first I heard that the same brackets fit for 9 & 10" drum spindles. Nice since my Valiant is 9", but I might want to go to 10" someday for stronger bearings (both 9" outer bearings spun in my 69 Dart years ago).
Click to expand...

They offer the brackets for either 9" or 10" setup. They have both listed on their site. I had a local machine shop drill out my toyota previa rotors to sbp.

I used the Chevy celebrity calipers. I didn't know you could use the toyota previa ones. I've had nothing but good luck with my front disks from them.
 
KitCarlson said:
Has anyone redrilled scarebird rotors for sbp? Thinking about it someday, but want to keep Cragars.
Click to expand...

I did my first set that way and then remembered that I'd have to drill each and every rotor after that. so I bit the bullet and just re drilled the stock 9" hubs for the 4.5 pattern. the rotors are now changeable on the side of the road if I have to. since they are factory 4.5 drilled. I like being able to go to the parts store for new stuff for my brakes:D
oh andI think I was wrong about the calipers being in front or rear. I think you just needed to flip the plates to work with the 10 inch spindles. It's been so long since I did them on the wife's car.

rotors are previa's
Calipers are celebrity.
here's a link for the listing that supports 9 & 10" spindles.
https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=64&product_id=139




here is my instructions I got. it's the undelined #4 section that tells you to flip the bracket for 9's or 10's




Mopar “A” body 1965-72 10”, 1960-72 9” Front Disc brake conversion instructions​

1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of penetrant oil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove studs. Best ways to do this is with a swedge cutter and press, or take a center punch the head from the inside. Then pilot drill about ½” deep, then drill off head with 5/8” diameter bit. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or beadblaster. Replace studs with ¼” longer or more studs, such as NAPA #641-1563 (Dorman 610-156) (10”) or #641-1560 (9”)
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward for the Ten’s, outward for the Nines and caliper forward of the axle. Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate. Note placement of the bolts for the Ten’s: rearward bolt uses a supplied jam nut, while the forward bolt is reversed. A drop of Locktite is recommended on the jam nut.
5. Check rotor: should be 10” in diameter and 2” tall. Drill out wheel stud holes with pattern supplied. Cut out pattern with scissors, then spray with light oil or WD-40 and lay on rotor. Lightly punch for holes, then remove and punch harder. Drill out holes ½” diameter. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls. Open pilot hole of rotor in lathe to just fit outside of centering ring.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap. Install center ring on hub.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
8. Test fit caliper onto bracket. Note where casting lug interferes with spindle – remove this lug with hacksaw, cutoff wheel or grinder. If using the last two methods, make sure you do not heat up caliper too much and melt the seals. If fitting into stock drum rims, you will need to carefully grind and round off the outer edge of the calipers also. Lubricate caliper contact point of brackets. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. Make sure bleed screw faces upward- if not, reverse sides. We recommend buying semi-loaded calipers, and softest pads, like NAPA TruStop. Tighten caliper bolts to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. Install hose with new copper crush washers.
9. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1973-75 Power Dart or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or use a disc proportioning valve
10. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam from a pressure imbalance.
Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard stops, a series of smooth stops will help bed in the pads properly.
 
So....you do all this work for a piece meal conversion only to retain the small bolt pattern? Have I got that right?
 
RustyRatRod said:
So....you do all this work for a piece meal conversion only to retain the small bolt pattern? Have I got that right?
Click to expand...


Nope you don't have it right. at least not for me anyway
what "all this work"? ohh the hard part of removing the studs from the hub and redrilling the rotors using a paper template or redrilling the hub to 4.5 and not drilling the rotor. yeah real hard.

When you do a swap even with mopar parts it's piecemeal. There is no benefit to using older stuff that is getting harder to find for about the same cost AND you have to change the upper control arm,spindle and lower ball joint, plus UCA bushings on the mopar swap to be safe and then you have to align it. So I'd say there is more work doing the mopar swap than the adapters that fit on the 9 or 10" drum brake spindles /hub. no alignment needed there


this kit or at least the adapters give you the option to put easy to find parts from the autoparts store on you car. it gives you the option of not using the stock setup for about the same price as you would pay for older used mopar parts. It also gives you the option to go either LBP or keep your SBP by drilling the rotors.
and yeah they do work great, at least the last 4 sets that I have put on different cars and been able to keep track of.
I know you can get the rotors and calipers for stock mopars. but they will probably have to locate them and then ship them to you taking more time. you can go to the parts store and have the part either in stock or sent to the store next day at no extra charge. sure beats waiting a couple days for a part that might be available for a few more years.
I have done the 73-up disc conversion and have had to wait days for parts.
I put in the labor because I am on a budget (and impatient) and wanted to have easy access to replaceable parts if I was to break down on the road. others have different opinions. mine is different than yours and the original poster probably has a different one too!
 
66Dvert said:
Nope you don't have it right. at least not for me anyway
what "all this work"? ohh the hard part of removing the studs from the hub and redrilling the rotors using a paper template or redrilling the hub to 4.5 and not drilling the rotor. yeah real hard.

When you do a swap even with mopar parts it's piecemeal. There is no benefit to using older stuff that is getting harder to find for about the same cost AND you have to change the upper control arm,spindle and lower ball joint, plus UCA bushings on the mopar swap to be safe and then you have to align it. So I'd say there is more work doing the mopar swap than the adapters that fit on the 9 or 10" drum brake spindles /hub. no alignment needed there


this kit or at least the adapters give you the option to put easy to find parts from the autoparts store on you car. it gives you the option of not using the stock setup for about the same price as you would pay for older used mopar parts. It also gives you the option to go either LBP or keep your SBP by drilling the rotors.
and yeah they do work great, at least the last 4 sets that I have put on different cars and been able to keep track of.
I know you can get the rotors and calipers for stock mopars. but they will probably have to locate them and then ship them to you taking more time. you can go to the parts store and have the part either in stock or sent to the store next day at no extra charge. sure beats waiting a couple days for a part that might be available for a few more years.
I have done the 73-up disc conversion and have had to wait days for parts.
I put in the labor because I am on a budget (and impatient) and wanted to have easy access to replaceable parts if I was to break down on the road. others have different opinions. mine is different than yours and the original poster probably has a different one too!
Click to expand...

exactly how much longer will the 73 and up stuff be available, this may be the way i go soon might as well go 4.5" and then use 15" rims so i can find tires!
 
I added the Scarebird disc setup to my '65 Barracuda about five years ago, and it works extremely well. Especially when combined with a hydroboost setup. The car stops very quickly and with predictability.

It's been long enough now that I almost forgot that I did the conversion and now just take them for granted. If I bought another A-body I wouldn't hesitate at all. An excellent bang-for-the-buck upgrade.

As others have said, fifty years on I don't really think it's a great idea trying to piece together old Kelsey-Hayes assemblies anymore. It's quite nice to have all new parts. As for the drilling of rotors, that's super easy. The NAPA near my place has a machine shop so I can just buy new rotors when the time comes and have them drill the SBP stud holes very inexpensively. I find the whole arrangement very convenient.
 
I know you can get the rotors and calipers for stock mopars. but they will probably have to locate them and then ship them to you taking more time. you can go to the parts store and have the part either in stock or sent to the store next day at no extra charge. sure beats waiting a couple days for a part that might be available for a few more years.
I have done the 73-up disc conversion and have had to wait days for parts.
Click to expand...

where the hell are you shopping? most i have ever had to wait for 73-up parts is a few hours at the local napa.. the parts are still readily available. in 30 more years why knows what will be. not to worried about that though. :)

exactly how much longer will the 73 and up stuff be available, this may be the way i go soon might as well go 4.5" and then use 15" rims so i can find tires!
Click to expand...

spindles, upper control arms, rotors,brake pads,bearings/seals, ball joints and bushings are all available new so i suspect they will still be around for quite a while.
 
If you are going to be rebuilding the entire front end and want the bbp, then sure the 73-up is the way to go. You're buying all the front end parts anyway and getting an alignment.

If you don't need to do upper bushings and all the ball joints, then scarebird is the way to go. Then you don't have to change the rear to bbp - or run wheel adapters.

When we did Jake's 65, we did scarebird and upgraded to a dual pot master cylinder. For Jake it was a matter of the deals he got on nearly new rear axles and tires and sbp rallyes. For my 68, I've already picked up a complete 73 power set up from the firewall bracket all the way out to the dust caps. Not really liking adapters, I'll now have to go bbp on the rear. I have added cost to my build. We did jakes for a total of $270. I've already got $200 in mine and still need to buy or rebuild the calipers, turn the rotors and upgrade the rear in some fashion for bbp.

I'm not saying skimp on the $ for a good brake system, but for Jake on his high school budget at the time, cost/time played a part in it. For me, I'm going with a 383 and putting 11" brakes on the rear and time is what it is - I'm not on a schedule with my car. For a nearly stock small block, Jake's scarebird discs are performing extremely well. I'd do it again on an early A without hesitation.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top