Scarebird disc conversion

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GTXperience said:
vynn, let us know if you are running 14x4.5s or 14x5.5s steelies on both cars.
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I never bothered to measure them, but since I'm comfortably running 215/70-14 tires, I'd assume they're 5.5" wide.
 
mild steel is around 70000.00 pounds per square inch tensel strength. and considering the area of the adapters they are more than adequate to do the job.harder steel is not nesecarily better for that application harder is more britel. mild steel is the right steel for that application
 
To nit-pic the material their plate is made of is just silly. A floating caliper is going to line up with the rotor whether it needs to flex that plate a little or not.
If someone has stripped and ruined the threaded caliper mounting holes, the same thing has happened to spindles many times.
I can imagine a few went to a parts yard and removed calipers and mounting bolts from wrecked cars. Bent bolts will screw up the assembly . No fault of Scarebird there.
 
grassy said:
This is a bit more serious that a bunch of guys standing on the sidelines dumping on a product because it is new...anything that makes my kid's car safer and is less expensive and easier to install, I am all for it but you didn't answer my question..

The question is - are the adapter plates cut out of regular mild steel plate ?

Simple question and simple to answer because you have installed them.

Perhaps Scarebird can answer since I suspect that he is following this thread..


Ian.
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why not call them and find out, I have had several hard stops, and not one problem..
 
i put a Scarebird 10" conversion (celibrity caliper and rotors with cadilac hoses) on the 68 car back in 2007. the car stops.......straight....
got all the parts new from the local NAPA store...at first i felt bad about putting GM parts on my Mopar but it stopped better than ever, that made me feel safer
works so good, i've forgotten about it
 
Have used the rear brake conversion on a 68 Barracuda and front for a 72 Duster. No problems at all and you can count one more sattisfied customer.

Scarebird said:
We have improved it this summer - by using a different rotor (10") and the 1990 Celebrity caliper we now can clear the stock dog dish rims.
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My question is: What rotor are you using now to clear the stock dog dish rims? Does the bracket remains the same? (1972 Duster used to be 9" drums)
 
the master cylinder for disk brakes has a larger reservor for the disk side. i did not change the proportioning valve or put in a regulator and it doesnt seam out of balance at all. im very happy with the product.
 
I haven't changed my master or valve with the conversion, but I haven't put many miles on it yet. It does seem too stop very well so far.
 
avarageerod said:
what is the worst that could happen if you don't change the prop. valve or master cylinder?
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They will lock up under hard braking. Drum brake master cylinders have a residual pressure valve in both ports which keep pressure at the wheel cylinders so the shoes stay close to the drum. Plus disc masters have a larger reservoir for the increased size of the fluid capacity in the caliper.
 
redfastback said:
They will lock up under hard braking. Drum brake master cylinders have a residual pressure valve in both ports which keep pressure at the wheel cylinders so the shoes stay close to the drum. Plus disc masters have a larger reservoir for the increased size of the fluid capacity in the caliper.
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No redisule valve is the only problem i had when i first did the swap. I replaced my 68 MC with a re-man disc/drum mc from a 70 dart, then i tried a 73, then a 68 disc/drum mc , even thou i had a firm pedal it had excessive play.. I bled and bled, took the whole thing apart, bled some more ect...
come to find out the re-man MCs from A-1 cardone dont have a redisule valves for the rear brakes..(like my original one does) also my 72 motors repair manual clearly shows the valve in the MCs. Heres wha i did since the 68 disc/drum MC and my original manual 10" drum/drum MC from my dart had the same piston bore size, I removed the front drum redisule valve from my old MC .(dont need it since im going to front disc) I Installed and bled the old 68 MC and had a full, firm and nice pedal..I called A-1 cordone and they said they do NOT reinstall the redisule valves back into thier re-man MCs. said it caused to many problems so they just remove them. I know the res is smaller on drum/drum mc then the disc/drum Mcs, I have never had a problem pluss i do check quite often.

Does anyone make a MC with redisual valves built into the MCs???? OR can an upgrade of the rear wheel clys take care of this problem?
 
The Raybestos MC's I have gotten have the Residual valves. Another route is to buy the RPV's by wilwood and others that are inline. 2lb for disc and 10lb for drum.

Remember folks that caliper piston size makes a difference in what MC piston bore size you choose.
 
I guess is doesn't matter..at $ 495.00 USD plus shipping for an A-body, it is too expensive to me..I only have $ 150.00 into the normal conversion that I will be installing next spring..

Cheers..
 
Dakota_Don said:
No redisule valve is the only problem i had when i first did the swap. I replaced my 68 MC with a re-man disc/drum mc from a 70 dart, then i tried a 73, then a 68 disc/drum mc , even thou i had a firm pedal it had excessive play.. I bled and bled, took the whole thing apart, bled some more ect...
come to find out the re-man MCs from A-1 cardone dont have a redisule valves for the rear brakes..(like my original one does) also my 72 motors repair manual clearly shows the valve in the MCs. Heres wha i did since the 68 disc/drum MC and my original manual 10" drum/drum MC from my dart had the same piston bore size, I removed the front drum redisule valve from my old MC .(dont need it since im going to front disc) I Installed and bled the old 68 MC and had a full, firm and nice pedal..I called A-1 cordone and they said they do NOT reinstall the redisule valves back into thier re-man MCs. said it caused to many problems so they just remove them. I know the res is smaller on drum/drum mc then the disc/drum Mcs, I have never had a problem pluss i do check quite often.

Does anyone make a MC with redisual valves built into the MCs???? OR can an upgrade of the rear wheel clys take care of this problem?
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I did this conversion on my 65 Barracuda. My understanding is that you don't need a rear residual pressure valve if your rear wheel cylinders have the expander cups in them for this function (those cups have been common in rebuild kits since the 70s) I put a disc/drum mc on the car before I did the swap and it worked fine.

I did use a rear proportioning valve b/c a super hard panic stop caused the car to swap ends .

I don't know enough about metalurgy to know what type of steel the adapters are made out of, but I can tell you that they are STURDY. If anything, they seem to be over-engineered.
 
pyp1000 said:
I did this conversion on my 65 Barracuda. My understanding is that you don't need a rear residual pressure valve if your rear wheel cylinders have the expander cups in them for this function (those cups have been common in rebuild kits since the 70s) I put a disc/drum mc on the car before I did the swap and it worked fine.

I did use a rear proportioning valve b/c a super hard panic stop caused the car to swap ends .

I don't know enough about metalurgy to know what type of steel the adapters are made out of, but I can tell you that they are STURDY. If anything, they seem to be over-engineered.
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I wish i didnt need a redisule valve, but my MC from my 68 dart had them in the front and rear.. im not sure but its posible i have (had) the OEM wheel cly and MC on my dart when i purchaced it with 66k miles on it.

I need rear brake rebuilt and this would be a great time to add new wheel cly and get away from the redisule valve..
 
was thinking about using this conversion on my barracuda and a friend was going to use it on his dart but after posting here sending a PM and attempting to contact them via email with no response I think I would be better off ordering ANYTHING from laysons! if you can't contact them to place an order what about when you have a problem? no phone# no address NO CUSTOMER SERVICE! oh well guess I'll order the S.S.B.C. kit at least they answer the phone
 
i was just there i see what you meen. i bought from them a while back no problem. i dont know what to say. i did see something on their site about email but i dont know what adress. i gues they must have hit the bigtime and they dont have to talk to working people any more. im pissed of too ive been talking good about their product and they dont want to talk yo their custamers. what do you have to say scarebird.
 
tobysoldblue said:
I was hoping this would be another way to the 4.5 inch bolt pattern swap.
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FWIW this swap will go either way. All you have to do to make it work is have your SBP hubs redrilled for LBP. Know it works because I have a set of 9" hubs with both bolt patterns. The GM rotors originally used for the kit were already 5 on 4.5". I was so close to ordering this kit that I bought a set of hubs off eBay, but I just couldn't stomach GM parts on my Valiant. If Scarebird could figure out a way to use Caravan/Voyager calipers with the Toyota rotors I would have to rethink my position. Some of the minivans came with 14" wheels so I know the calipers will fit.
 
I have heard there is not enough surface to redrill the small hubs to Large bolt pattern. True? Anyone?
 
True. Can't redrill small hub to big 4.5 in. pattern. You may want to get a big bolt pattern hub but, I dont know if they'll work with the small spindle.
 
I thought I read somewhere about re-drilling the rotors to the small bolt pattern. That was what I was hoping to do if I go with Scarebird.

Parts are parts as far as I am concerned. The calipers & rotors will be hidden under my rims & it is not like they have GM engraved in big letters on them. My car is going to be a driver & I am upgrading certain areas for safety so I have no plans on winning any restoration awards. In today's economy with what Mopar parts cost I need to save money anywhere possible or the car will sit for years while I save up. Just my 2 cents.
 
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