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Well, what do you consider “Power” out of the 318?
You can do what RAMM suggested. It’s much cheaper. And it works.
Looking into it. Unfortunately, I don't have a way to machine my own parts.
This is the spring kit I'll be using IF I go with the cam in my cart. I'll save posting the cam until I actually purchase it. That will save 3 pages meaningless discussion. Howards Cams 98438-K34 (summitracing.com)
The two heads I have for consideration are a nice set of 587's and a set of Magnums. I'll do my own porting on either set. I really want the rocker shaft assembly, so right now leaning towards the 587's. Either way I'll use the stock size valves, maybe back cut the face.
. Those are the same Springs that I got to put on my 308 aero heads to use with a .512 roller, but the kit is a k-32 instead of a k-34 for the 3/8 valve stems.
Howards recommended this spring kit for the cam I'm looking at and it's for LA engines. When the time comes I won't order anything till I call and verify
The 587s will need the push rod hole to be opened up a little but you already know that. If you go with them I have a guide cutter you can use. It's the .531 size.
To save a little change, if I can get away without boring all the better for money, just use a standard bore piston. Depends on how for in the hole the pistons are..... and what CC the heads will be. IF pushed in a corner, I'll use the magnum heads for compression. I don't want to break the bank on this build. Cost is a driving factor. Last time I threw under 500 at a 318. It did exactly what I built it to do, and still does. This time I'd like to stay under 1500. We'll see.
Also, as you know, I have two roller blocks to use. LA 318 and the Magnum 5.2. Could go either way yet
450 and up.
Jabs, my goal is to start taking a lot of my misc parts and putting things together. I can "plop-drop" them in DT in a few short hours. Test-n-Tune on them, then put them on the "shelf" for future projects that will be coming my way.
Get it together quick! I have to have a hot 318 running and driving by May 8th! Bring it down I’ll run you at #318Fest in Alabama.
Sounds like FUN!! I won't be making it to Alabama, though.....
11.5-1, Howards solid roller in the 250-260 range, .560ish lift, tunnel ram with 660 center squirters, and the biggest headers you can find. Get the valvetrain wire tight and balance everything. Maybe coat the piston skirts, use 11/32 stem valves, and hold the eff on. What car? 4.88 rear, 28” tire, 8” converter.
saw that... LOL.
been considering this my self but figured it be considered butchery!! one issue with stock rollers is there heavy as is, adding a slug just gonna add to that!
Here is a weight comparison I did a while back. Crane solid body roller pair: 239.3 grams Comp solid body roller pair: 268.5 grams Magnum rollers: 303.2 grams, I weighed 2 together for comparison. The Magnums were new replacements by Melling with no oil in them. Going by this, 1 mag lifter is 32 grams heavier than 1 Crane, 17 grams heavier than 1 Comp.
I think aftermarket solid rollers are built like a hour glass, right?
great info here!!! but makes me ask, whats the guts in a stock lifter weigh vs a aluminum plug to replace guts???
The cranes and comps have link bars connecting them. That is why I weighed 2 magnums . The weight of the solids included the link bars.
You are sticking to your roots. lol The OP started out wild and is starting to lean towards mild. lol I'd like to see at least 11.5 compression. lol whatever you build it will run to it's potential, we know that.
Man, that link bar is made of platinum because they want like 600 bucks for a set of 16. Are they that much more expensive to make than hyd ? I think cost will drive me to use hyd. You can spin 6500 with hyd pretty easy.