Seam sealer fail - help

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gdizzle

gdizzle

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Maybe I can salvage this job, but on my 66 dart, which I scraped out all the old seam sealer at the roof drip edge. I used Dynatron 550, tape, and mineral spirits. I thought I laid it in nicely.
Been 2 days, start removing the tape and too much overlap and it pulled away from the roof and looks horrible. Tried razor cutting some of the crappy bits , but it is not working. So can I apply another bead of Dynatron right ontop? Or do I need to remove it all and restart?

Also I am planning on painting ontop of this , is that alright??
helpp
 
gdizzle said:
Maybe I can salvage this job, but on my 66 dart, which I scraped out all the old seam sealer at the roof drip edge. I used Dynatron 550, tape, and mineral spirits. I thought I laid it in nicely.
Been 2 days, start removing the tape and too much overlap and it pulled away from the roof and looks horrible. Tried razor cutting some of the crappy bits , but it is not working. So can I apply another bead of Dynatron right ontop? Or do I need to remove it all and restart?

Also I am planning on painting ontop of this , is that alright??
helpp
Click to expand...
Your basic problem was waiting 2 days to pull the tape. Try to lay another bead of sealer and see how it looks.
If it still looks bad you'll probably have to redo it. This time pull the tape as soon as it skins. Don't use mineral spirits,
just try and smooth it out with your finger.
 
Thanks for the tips. This stuff skinned over in about 60 seconds. And it was impossible to smooth it out unless I used mineral spirits on my fingers. I am gonna try another smaller bead to cover up the mess from the roof edge slope. Hopefully this will work. I had tried to pull the tape right after I had smoothed it out, but it had already setup and just tore through the sealer. Also I wonder, how hard does this stuff get? Cause right now it is certainly pliable. The old sealer I removed was rock hard and cracked out.
 
gdizzle said:
Thanks for the tips. This stuff skinned over in about 60 seconds. And it was impossible to smooth it out unless I used mineral spirits on my fingers. I am gonna try another smaller bead to cover up the mess from the roof edge slope. Hopefully this will work. I had tried to pull the tape right after I had smoothed it out, but it had already setup and just tore through the sealer. Also I wonder, how hard does this stuff get? Cause right now it is certainly pliable. The old sealer I removed was rock hard and cracked out.
Click to expand...
The best seam sealers are 2 part products. They are also expensive. Fusor, SEM and other brands are out there. They usually require a special gun
for each product brand. I got a SEM applicator when I worked in body shops. Contact local automotive paint stores for options. These are professional
products so they vastly out perform the old style sealer in a caulking gun.
 
Thanks for the tips. I am still trying my luck with the Dynatron 550. I have now put on 3 coats. This last one was slightly better because I decided to get rid of the gloves, and just use my fingers. It was real smooth, then as it dried it starts crackling and creating little issues, even pulling a little from the edge. Almost like it is shrinking/sagging. So now I dont really know what to do and this is the last step holding me hostage to get it painted. Now I am thinking maybe get some filler spray primer, and shoot several coats at it and see if it starts to fill the small crackles.
 
gdizzle said:
Thanks for the tips. I am still trying my luck with the Dynatron 550. I have now put on 3 coats. This last one was slightly better because I decided to get rid of the gloves, and just use my fingers. It was real smooth, then as it dried it starts crackling and creating little issues, even pulling a little from the edge. Almost like it is shrinking/sagging. So now I dont really know what to do and this is the last step holding me hostage to get it painted. Now I am thinking maybe get some filler spray primer, and shoot several coats at it and see if it starts to fill the small crackles.
Click to expand...
See if you can borrow/ purchase a gun for a 2 part product. Get rid of that crap, it sounds like it might be old. Use a professional
product the first time and be done with it. Go to your local automotive paint store and ask them about the products they have
available.
 
Use SEM 39387 self leveling seam sealer. You will need the special gun as well but it flows on like syrup, dries very smooth and doesn't shrink.

I tried 3m seam sealer and it shrunk like mad, cracked and pulled away.
 
Strip it all out and start over with a different product. You don't want issues to pop up after its painted.
 
68383GTS said:
Strip it all out and start over with a different product. You don't want issues to pop up after its painted.
Click to expand...
Ok so few weeks back, I tried a 3rd coat, smoothed it, then primed it with filler primer, a few coats. Looked like it was going to do the trick. Few days later I notice the caulk is flexible, too much so, if I lightly push finger into the seam , it makes a dent? I cover the car and leave town for a week. Now today I go check it, and now it is bubbling up and if I push finger it now tears and wants to come off. So I ripped it all out ( so fun) and now need to try the 2K stuff. I am already down $45 in the Dynatron stuff, and then $30 for a can of Epoxy primer that I used first, then another can of filler primer $9.

So this 2K stuff, how many tubes is it gonna take? These drip edge rails are pretty wide, and pretty steep towards the back. Eastwood sells a gun and 1 8oz tube for $45. it is 2K and blue. help is appreciated. This is completely hanging me up to get the car painted. all the other body work is done.
 
gdizzle said:
Ok so few weeks back, I tried a 3rd coat, smoothed it, then primed it with filler primer, a few coats. Looked like it was going to do the trick. Few days later I notice the caulk is flexible, too much so, if I lightly push finger into the seam , it makes a dent? I cover the car and leave town for a week. Now today I go check it, and now it is bubbling up and if I push finger it now tears and wants to come off. So I ripped it all out ( so fun) and now need to try the 2K stuff. I am already down $45 in the Dynatron stuff, and then $30 for a can of Epoxy primer that I used first, then another can of filler primer $9.

So this 2K stuff, how many tubes is it gonna take? These drip edge rails are pretty wide, and pretty steep towards the back. Eastwood sells a gun and 1 8oz tube for $45. it is 2K and blue. help is appreciated. This is completely hanging me up to get the car painted. all the other body work is done.
Click to expand...
Go to your local automotive paint store and ask them about the products they have available. You'll need a gun for the product you choose. Maybe they
will let you borrow one or you may have to purchase one. Yes, more money and the 2 part products aren't cheap, but you will have a gun for future use.
SEM, Fusor are 2 brands and there are others as well. Buy 2 tubes, ask if you can return one if you don't use it. This should eliminate product failure and
you should be happy with the results.
 
I did both my dusters with evercoat. Absolutely love it. And it sands like butter if need b

Screenshot_20180710-191050_Google.jpg
 
Thanks for all the tips. So I settled on 3M 08307, 2 tubes, and 1 gun. So as I wait for delivery, I am concerned how to tool this stuff, if possible. Dry time? Like as it gets down to below the windshield area, it needs to swoop up and then under hood. Not sure how a self leveling product is going to go up? So can I spread it with finger?
 
gdizzle said:
Thanks for all the tips. So I settled on 3M 08307, 2 tubes, and 1 gun. So as I wait for delivery, I am concerned how to tool this stuff, if possible. Dry time? Like as it gets down to below the windshield area, it needs to swoop up and then under hood. Not sure how a self leveling product is going to go up? So can I spread it with finger?
Click to expand...
Since it is self leveling it will be pretty fluid. Put tape on the bottoms of the drip rails to keep it from running out. Also make dams with tape
to contain it where you don't want it to go. Self leveling means it will self level. On the flat areas of the drip rails, you won't need to
tape it or smooth it with your finger. As with all body work patience is key.
 
Make sure you let the seam sealer outgas enough chemical from reaction to mixing before paint. I found out the hard way that Sem 39387 2 part took 3 days or more to completely outgas. on the second application I left it a week and the results were great. I pulled tape 1/2 hours after it skinned and it flowed "just" a tiny bit to make the edges look rounded instead of straight walled.
 
Ok so I feel defeated. The straight parts look great, the slanted sections at front and back are horrid. And it set up after about 8 minutes, rock hard. On the slanted sections it would not flow into the lip channel, so I tried pushing it into with dowel, and looks really nasty. So how do I sand it down to at least minimize the horrible appearance? I still have another tube, so I could try putting more on it but I dont understand how to make it flow and be even as it heads down. Some pics. I did not try doing anything with my finger. perhaps that was a mistake? Also it seems real thin on the slanted sections. Help? I did this this morning 8 hrs ago
IMG_4979.JPG
IMG_4981.JPG
IMG_4982.JPG
 
have you asked the shop who is painting your car what they recommend? maybe even do it for you so the overall job comes out nice and not have an issue between the chemicals you are using and what they are using? If after an expensive paint job there is a issue with the chemicals used to seam seal, do not think the paint shop is going to fix it for free. Just a thought.
 
Hey so I was able to use some 100grit sand paper and help smooth out the funky seams. I now see that on some parts the sealer go too close to the upper outer edge, which might cause issue for snapping the trim back after it is painted. What about using a rotary tool with a grinding bit or etching bit? I am very close to being done.
 
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