Seat relocation brackets

Mopar Interiors

  1. AussieDart

    AussieDart Well-Known Member

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    Hello,
    Has anyone used the Year one seat relocation brackets?
    1966-74 A B E-Body Universal Seat Relocation Brackets
    I would like to use them in my 68 Valiant (bench seat) but am trying to get my head around how they would work.
    The last time I removed the bench seat I found that the bolts on the seat that go through the floor were quiet long so I don't know how this would work with Year ones brackets.
    Unfortunately they don't list any instructions on their website so if anyone has used them please let me know how you went.
    Thanks,
    Ron
     
  2. Darter6

    Darter6 Well-Known Member

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    I believe you have to remove the factory studs. If you get them, please let us know how they worked out. I have been thinking about them for my Valiant.Just needs a bit more leg room.
     
  3. The King

    The King Active Member

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    Im in the same boat. Please let us know!
     
  4. RedFish

    RedFish Well-Known Member

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    Yes our seat tracks have studs swedged into holes. I think you'll find there is a series of holes provided in the tracks so the standard mounting position could be changed without adding additional parts.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2017
  5. AussieDart

    AussieDart Well-Known Member

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    Yes this will be interesting. I have ordered the brackets so we will see how this pans out.
     
    • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
    • PingPongPaule

      PingPongPaule New Member

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      Hi,

      same car - same problem. Are there any news?

      Thanx
      Frank
       
    • AussieDart

      AussieDart Well-Known Member

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      Guten Tag Frank,
      I ordered my brackets and they did not come with installation instructions. So I wrote to Year one and this is what they gave me.
      "This car has seat mounting studs on the tracks. The studs need to be removed and the tracks are then bolted to the relocation brackets using the threaded hole. After all four brackets are bolted to the tracks, bolt the seat to the floor with bolts, washers and nuts using one of the unthreaded holes in the brackets."
      As yet I have not installed the brackets as I have few other things I need to sort on the car.
       
    • Peter Bates

      Peter Bates 1973 Cuda owner for 36yrs

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      Sorry team I'm a E body guy but I thought I'd let you know Intel on this subject.

      Seat relocation brackets bought from Year One.

      These brackets in the front hole positions gave me nearly three inches more leg room. Great for a 6’4” guy. Wish I would have thought about this 20 yrs ago. Dang it.

      Tools I used:

      • Dremel with milling bit
      • Drill with 3/8” drill
      • 7/16” and 1/2” wrenches as well as deep well sockets.
      • screwdriver
      • pliers
      • small hammer
      • I bought new stainless steel bolts, lock washers, washers, and nuts to bolt in the seat to the floorboard. Get ones that are 3/8” longer than the original studs.

      Step One:
      • remove the seat via the four ½” nuts below the car
      • once the seat is out on the floor I used the dremel to grind out the flared end of the studs on the tracks themselves. You cannot hammer them out as they are crimped into place. Once fairly ground down I tapped them out with the hammer.
      Step Two:

      • place the seat on its side with the lever adjuster in the top position.
      • Remove the spring on the inside (the big one not the return spring for the lever)
      • Slide the rail forward that will expose the inside left 7/16” bolt. Remove the bolt.
      • Now you can slide the rail back farther that allows the internal bushing to come out. Note the orientation and location of the big roller bearing.
      • Remove the front 7/16” bolt and take off the entire rail
      • Slide the rail forward to remove the other internal bushing.
      • Clean it all up and slide the rails completely off the bracket.
      • The top rail rear portion will require a clearance “hole” for the head of the new stud, what I did was to install the new bracket with into position (front two holes in the forward direction) then mark the front hole on the rail itself. Remove the new bracket and drill into the sliding plate but not all the way through. I used the dremel to open the hole up enough to allow the head of the new stud to rest into it. Install the new bracket and stud onto the rail and align to be straight in line with the existing hole. Tighten as best you can, it’s a tight fit with the wrench.
      • Install the front new bracket with the holes toward the front of the seat. Tighten it up once aligned.
      • Grease the crap out of the tracks and assemble the reverse of the take down. Its pretty simple.
      • Install the rail but put in the front bolt first so you have room to use the deep well socket but don’t let the rail slide all the way off. Then install the rear bolt to the seat.
      • Install the spring.
      Step Three:

      • Take off the other rail and tear down and clean as noted from above.
      • Install the front and rear new brackets. Hand tighten the bolts. The rear rail will need the 3/8” through hole drilled into it from the front hole of the new bracket (the new bracket hole is smaller so just rotate it out of the way once you mark the position of the front hole
      • Reassemble and grease her up
      • Install the rail back onto the seat and tighten the bolts.
      Step Four:

      • Install the seat and wiggle things around a bit to get all the studs to plop through the holes in the floor board. Use locking washers and washers as required. Tighten it all up




      Thank you,


      Peter A. Bates
      Principal Engineer - Innovation

      [Email and phone # removed by staff]
       
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      • AussieDart

        AussieDart Well-Known Member

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        Thanks for that Peter. The instructions will come in handy when I am doing mine.
         
      • phaelax

        phaelax Well-Known Member

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        I think those instructions should be stickied into the articles section for future reference
         
      • Peter Bates

        Peter Bates 1973 Cuda owner for 36yrs

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        I have no clue how to do that.
         
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