Setting initial timing and need to know where push-button starter leads go...

Electrical and Ignition

  1. supersoap33

    supersoap33 Well-Known Member

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    Hey, all. I'm setting timing on my duster for the first time and bought this push-button ignition button to "bump" the motor to get piston 1 in it's compression stroke while I'm working under the hood. I need to know where the positive and negative wires on this thing hook up on the motor in order to use it! Please be descriptive as I don't know too much about this car or old cars in general yet. Thanks.

    20210622_125118.jpg
     
  2. 67Dart273

    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Pos/ neg do not matter "it's a switch" What year is your Duster?


    Find the starter relay on the car, either on the firewall or fender apron

    LOL here's a photo I found already marked.........the arrows point out the points at which you attach the switch

    dartstarterrelay-jpg.jpg

    To set timing/ distributor, pull no1 plug and bump engine until you start to feel compression. Now watch the timing marks and bump or wrench the engine until the marks come up NOT to TDC but rather to "where you want" timing set. With a stock cam this might be 5-10BTC, with a mild cam 10-15 or maybe more BTC

    So far as running and not appearance correct it really does not matter wich way the dist is inserted so long as you get the no1 wire in place to match the rotor position Rotor should be "just coming to" the no1 tower. Make sure the dist has enough "switng" room to adjust timing.

    Now rotate dist CW (retard) and back slowly CCW (advanced) until points just open or if electronic, so that reluctor tip is in the middle of the pickup coil. You can check timing "on the starter" but with this method it should start and run "no fuss"
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2021
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    • toolmanmike

      toolmanmike Moderator Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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      Between the threaded bolt lug and the hex screw lug.

      starter relay.jpg

      DartStarterRelay.jpg
       
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      • Mattax

        Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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        He's got a '74 with 318
        74 Duster (318) cranks, but no start. Need help.

        Supersoap. When you go to set the initial timing.
        1. disconnect the vacuum hose connecting to the distributor. Put a golf tee in the hose. This guarentees the vacuum advance is out of the picture.

        2. Unless its about to die, let it warm up a bit on the fast idle and choke. Then kick it down.

        3. Factory timing for a '74 applies IF the distributor is the actual original AND the engine is stock.
        It should be on a sticker in the engine bay. Next place to check is the owners manual and finally the shop manual.
        For 1973 (I dont have a '74) the initial timing for a Dodge 318 was to be TDC plus minus 2.5 degrees at 700 or 750 rpm.
        Setting it at a lower rpm is generally OK. Setting it at a higher rpm can result in insufficient advance.

        With an aftermarket or unknown distributor I would set the initial at 5 degrees BTDC, 700 to 750 rpm. Then later while driving, if you find the engine pings under moderate or high load, back off a couple degrees.

        One more thing. The carburator may have a solenoid for the slow idle. If so, adjust the solenoid's position to adjust the slow idle.
         
      • supersoap33

        supersoap33 Well-Known Member

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        Thanks everyone for your help. I got piston one stopped at about the time I first feel air at the spark plug hole. Problem now is that I can't get the distributor cap to seat on the distributor with the rotor in place. It's very aggravating. Any idea why it's not seating properly? It sort of wobbles and the clips are hard to put on. I'm not going to crank it like this because I have a good feeling it will fuck my rotor and I'll be back at the auto parts store this evening.
         
      • supersoap33

        supersoap33 Well-Known Member

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        Ok. So what I was doing was getting piston 1 at the beginning of compression and then aligning the rotor to where it's pointing at #1 before I insert the distributor back into the block, making sure that the shaft of the distributor fits in the notch in the block, but without changing the position of the rotor as it points at #1. Then I tighten it down and hopefully it starts/runs?
         
      • Jim Lusk

        Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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        I'm going to politely disagree with the above posts about the best way to hook up the starter button. It will work that way, but there's a lot of current going through the switch that way. Best way, in my opinion, is to pull the yellow (IGN) wire off the relay and put one clip of the switch on that terminal (not on the wire) and the other end on 12V pos (I usually hook to the battery). This will also make sure that you don't start the car in gear as the NSS will be in the circuit.
         
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        • 67Dart273

          67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          No either check the points or look at the reluctor to pickup position. Those are what triggers the spark.
           
        • 67Dart273

          67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          I was saying no to the OP LOL. You have a point, but my beat up old button is a heavy deal, designed to handle solenoids.
           
        • Scody21

          Scody21 Just send it

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          Did I hear someone say use a screw driver to bump it over?
          :rofl:
           
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          • toolmanmike

            toolmanmike Moderator Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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            Not as handy as pushbutton but it does work.
             
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            • harrisonm

              harrisonm Well-Known Member

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              Damn, you beat me to that.
               
            • toolmanmike

              toolmanmike Moderator Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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              Quick, someone run out and measure the amps going through the remote starter switch. It's enough current to operate the solenoid and not the starter motor. :lol:

              And yes that thingy little Cal Hawk remote has pretty small gauge wires on it. My SS55HD from MAC tools has 12 gauge leads. It will bump over tractors and semi's.
               
            • Jim Lusk

              Jim Lusk Well-Known Member

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              Solenoid pulls some current. Otherwise the wire wouldn't be as big as it is. I burned out one bump switch years ago. I also like the NSS being in the circuit (won't mention the time my son had to chase down the runaway Barracuda and jump in...oh, yeah, I did mention it...).
               
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              • poppa

                poppa New Member

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                Good write up/pics
                 
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