Shop Heat

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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Hey everyone.

Im thinking about replacing my shop heater with this one. ProFusion Heat Ceiling-Mount Shop Heater — 25,590 BTU, 240 Volts, Model# HA24-75M | Electric Garage Industrial Heaters| Northern Tool + Equipment

Right now I have a unit that came out of a hotel room. Its only 4800 watts. It does ok, at taking the chill off, about 58 degrees. My shop is 620 sq ft fully insulated with 8ft walls except ceiling (on my list).

The new one is 7500 watts, so I'm thinking it should be able to heat up to 65 and keep it there so I can epoxy prime.

Thoughts?
 
its rated for 750 sq ft, your looking to use it at 620, that is 82.7% of full capacity
i would imagine thats fine
 
diymirage said:
its rated for 750 sq ft, your looking to use it at 620, that is 82.7% of full capacity
i would imagine thats fine
Click to expand...

I saw that also, sometimes I don't believe those sq ft ratings. I was at lowes and saw a quartz infrared heater rated at a 1000 as ft but it was 110v. Lol
 
Is it radiant or does it have a fan?
 
the reviews on it are pretty good
 
heck the smaller one rated 500sqft is on sale too. Just grab two for the dead spots..
 
IMO you are too close to the max ouput of the heather and it is also too small.

My shop I went with a mobil home furnace. They are about 80k BTU. They can be had for the same or less as what you are paying and run for much cheaper on LP, NG or oil.

I then added a wood furnace and linked the fans between the two. Gives me a choice of one two fuel or I can run both. When either run, both fans blow.
 
roccodart440 said:
IMO you are too close to the max ouput of the heather and it is also too small.

My shop I went with a mobil home furnace. They are about 80k BTU. They can be had for the same or less as what you are paying and run for much cheaper on LP, NG or oil.

I then added a wood furnace and linked the fans between the two. Gives me a choice of one two fuel or I can run both. When either run, both fans blow.
Click to expand...

I was thinking Bout that, but the gas line is over 300 ft away. I am not in there but maybe 8 hours a week max. If I am lucky. I just need something to bring up the temps to 65 for 24 hrs so I can spray the epoxy.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I was thinking Bout that, but the gas line is over 300 ft away. I am not in there but maybe 8 hours a week max. If I am lucky. I just need something to bring up the temps to 65 for 24 hrs so I can spray the epoxy.
Click to expand...

Run LP then.

If you aren't there often, that would make me want a larger heater even more as it needs to bring the temps up from outdoor temp. It's not coming up and then maintaining.
 
Having insulation in the ceiling is more important than the walls. I found this out through practical experience a long time ago. The walls were done, but the heater ran nonstop struggling to keep the temps up. After insulating the ceiling it would cycle on and off, easily keeping the temps up where we wanted it.
 
roccodart440 said:
Run LP then.

If you aren't there often, that would make me want a larger heater even more as it needs to bring the temps up from outdoor temp. It's not coming up and then maintaining.
Click to expand...

You are right.
I searched CL but came up empty on a used mobile home one. I was considering this, but the immediate funds aren't available, you have to add a vent kit ($309) and it says it only runs at 81% efficiency with LP. Not sure if that matters or not.

Add all of that together and I am looking at at least $1000 with a 100Lb tank of propane. Which I am not opposed to spending, I just can't afford that right now.
 
You can just put your own vent kit together. Much cheaper.
 
roccodart440 said:
You can just put your own vent kit together. Much cheaper.
Click to expand...

Thanks for pushing me to do this. I going to save up and go this route. I probably could have a 100LB tank last me all year. I know using propane puts moisture into the air, because this one is vented, is that NOT the case?
 
insulation,and air tight go a long way.address those first.600sq ft is not a lot of space to condition.too bad you dont know somone who is getting a new unit,and has the old one.even it was natural gas,a lp conversion kit is cheap.i know around hear i can buy a new 50,ooo btu gas furnace 90% for around $500.any elect. heat and watch that meter spin.gas is the only way to go or wood
 
Cheaper in the long run to insulate. A good used electric furnace with a couple elements disconnected will do the trick too. My house has a 10kw furnace,2 elements.
 
jdsduster said:
insulation,and air tight go a long way.address those first.600sq ft is not a lot of space to condition.too bad you dont know somone who is getting a new unit,and has the old one.even it was natural gas,a lp conversion kit is cheap.i know around hear i can buy a new 50,ooo btu gas furnace 90% for around $500.any elect. heat and watch that meter spin.gas is the only way to go or wood
Click to expand...

You're right. I was trying to get something going sooner so I could spray the epoxy, but I have to remember to slow down and do it ALL right the first time.

I will concentrate on getting the ceiling insulated and then look into a LP heater. I don't know anyone upgrading but I guess I can put an ad out on CL.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Thanks for pushing me to do this. I going to save up and go this route. I probably could have a 100LB tank last me all year. I know using propane puts moisture into the air, because this one is vented, is that NOT the case?
Click to expand...

ANY UNvented combustion heater puts moisture into the air, because moisture is part of the products of combustion. Oil, gas, LP does not matter, except some fuels produce more moisture than others. So no, vented does not
 
I realize everyone has different opinions , taste and wallets. But I would recommend a propane / natural gas radiant tube heater. Vented, no blowing air, and when turned on if your under it you can start to feel the heat in couple minutes .
Yote
 
Radiant is nice, but i dont find it as effective as in floor type radiant heat.
Theres 100’s of ways to skin this cat,wood heat is the cheapest but is labour intensive. Pellets, the burner costs lots for a good one,100,000 plus btu’s .
Containing it is the biggest thing.
Check your local buy and sell for insulated tarps.

Remember, plastic/nylon tarps are flammable, stuff can go bad quickly. Take care and have extinguishers handy. Better safe than sorry.

Open flame type appliances need air intake minimum 2 feet off the floor. Just made a stand for my buddy’s woodstove.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Radiant is nice, but i dont find it as effective as in floor type radiant heat.
Theres 100’s of ways to skin this cat,wood heat is the cheapest but is labour intensive. Pellets, the burner costs lots for a good one,100,000 plus btu’s .
Containing it is the biggest thing.
Check your local buy and sell for insulated tarps.

Remember, plastic/nylon tarps are flammable, stuff can go bad quickly. Take care and have extinguishers handy. Better safe than sorry.

Open flame type appliances need air intake minimum 2 feet off the floor. Just made a stand for my buddy’s woodstove.
Click to expand...

For me, I think propane is the best and cheapest option in the long run.
 
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