Should new carpet have factory holes precut?

[mopar56]

I ordered a new carpet from Muscle Cars and Classics I ordered from the Canadian warehouse but there based out of the US, it was a disaster really, after waiting two weeks for it what they shipped was a carpet for a square body chev truck so I sent it back and they sent me another it was for a 70 Duster 4 speed black when it finnialy showed up it now looks correct and the quality seems ok but no hole for the shifter or seat belts etc, is this normal when ordering carpet? This is the first new carpet I ever bought. Are these people normally good to deal with? There reviews were ok.

 

[Johnny Dart]

You have to put the holes in yourself.

 

[Alaskan_TA]

Same as they were put in at the factory.

Align, then make holes & trim the sides as needed.

 

[1969383S]

I suggest burning the holes in with a poker first for center and then a soldering iron as well, keeps the threads from pulling.

 

[mopar56]

Ok, thanks for the tips I'll put them in I just kinda thought it would be done it was about 300 bucks by the time it hit the front door I just would have thought it would have come ready to install but if that's the way they are then so be it.

 

[halfafish]

No, the flooring is just the basic shape and size you need. It's up to you to do the final trim and the holes. I had to do this with my 94 TCD 2500 installing a new floor. It was vinyl, but the process was the same. I got it good and warm in the sun for a few hours, then laid it in place. I started at the rear of the cab and from underneath, stabbed a heated awl through the first few holes I needed to anchor the flooring. Then my buddy held a 2x6 block under the marked holes while I used a HF hole-maker to pound through the vinyl to get the hole for the seat belt anchors. If this was carpet I would have singed the edges of the hole with a flame so they would not unravel. Once these holes were anchored down with bolts and fender washers, I could continue forward knowing I had a stable base to work with.

Once the first few bolts were holding the floor in place, I moved forward trimming as I went to get a close, but SLIGHTLY OVERSIZED trim of overall size. Far better to give it a final trim than find out you went too far the first time. Don't ask how I know this.

When the initial oversize trim job is done, you can feel for the holes needed from inside the cab, but I prefer to do so from underneath so I don't miss anything. Any screw hole like for the shifter can be marked with a matchstick through the hole once the awl has marked the spot. Then, use a heated awl to singe the hole and you're done. Trimming the 4-speed shifter hole can be done by hand, just feel for the outline of the hole and trim with a razor knife, then singe the edges. When the rear of the floor was secured I started in the center with my 4WD lever hole so I could work outward to the doors and firewall from there. In my experience, carpet isn't a tight glove hit, it's a respectably decent fit but you will likely have to massage it into final position. Take your time, and a second pair of hands is very handy. This can be done solo but it is much faster and better with a helper.

 

[ZMan67S]

I unrolled my when I got it, laid it upside down, and put some weight on it for a couple days. Did whats been mentioned above for the shifter and seat belt bolt holes.
When it was flat I aligned it in place on the floor. I slid under the car and used a phillps screw driver to the center of the bolt hole through the carpet to mark it. I'm sure there are better ways, but this is how I did it.
When you get to the sides near the doors trim a little and check. Basically you can't put it back if its been cut off.
Take your time.

 

[Oldiron440]

If you put the bolts in the holes before you drop the carpet in the job goes much faster.

 

[mopar56]

All suggestions duly noted thanks!

 

[Alaskan_TA]

Start with the rear carpet first also.

I like to get them out of the box ASAP & lay them out flat in a warm room.

I will then 'rough' fit them to the car, rear carpet first, then the front.

I then crank up the shop heat to 90 degrees & let the carpet sit a day.

Then massage it as tight as possible to the floor contours & when satisfied with the fit, start making holes, bolting seat belts in to the tunnel.

Then on to the front starting in the center our again. Any holes for console, buddy seat, shifter, etc.

After that, the outer holes including for the the dimmer switch & seat belts bolted in again.

Once satisfied all is well, edges trimmed leaving enough along the sides for the sill moldings, trim & kick panels to overlap to hold the carpet in place.

After that, holes for the studs in the seat tracks.

If the shop is still warm when done crawl in for a nap!

 

[Daves69]

I cut out corners of the original carpet heel pad, lined it up with the new one, and cut the high beam switch hole. It helped me put the new pad in the old spot. There was plenty extra to trim off both sides and the front. Used a soldering gun to create the bucket seat holes and a spray bottle of water JIC.