Show me your 340 ignition wiring looms/routing

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340inabbody said:
How do those ignition wire rails get mointed?
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They mount using the existing valve cover bolts. You can slide them forward toward the radiator or back to the firewall. Clamps that hold the plug wires are adjustable too. I bent the mounting brackets to get them to set the way I like but it wasn't much.
I'll try to get a picture of the plug boot that touches the header. I thought it would melt and burst into flames but not much damage considering its in constant contact at the #5 plug area.
 
dgibby said:
They mount using the existing valve cover bolts. You can slide them forward toward the radiator or back to the firewall. Clamps that hold the plug wires are adjustable too. I bent the mounting brackets to get them to set the way I like but it wasn't much.
I'll try to get a picture of the plug boot that touches the header. I thought it would melt and burst into flames but not much damage considering its in constant contact at the #5 plug area.
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Thank you.
 
I run 90* boots on 5&7 with the old style headers you have. I just make my own sets, 6 straight and 2 90s.
 
340inabbody said:
Lol Mike I like a guy who has opinions! If not this forum would be a dull *** place lol.
Ok so I have to see if the pipe has a flat spot on the bottom of the collector or one of the pipes? What did you replace them with?
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I went back to stock exhaust manifolds and stock exhaust. Kind of a shame because the headers & exhaust were only about a year old. My car sits stock to low in the front and the headers and the 3 inch exhaust really drug hard entering the driveway. I was too cheap to pop for the TTI headers (already in enough hot water with spousal unit over other car purchases). Sold the exhaust & the headers had an argument with the sawzall. Mine had a transplanted 360 / 727 / 8 3/4 drive train when I bought it, & seems to run pretty good already, at least for a weenie like me who doesn’t drive it that hard.
 
340inabbody said:
Thank you.
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These touch # 5 and 7 all the time. Here is what they look like after almost 3 years.

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340inabbody said:
Beautiful engine and bay. What is it Baracuda? I like both colors of that motor and body what did you use? How’s the car ride withoyshoks lol mine has the same holes right now.
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its a 71 dart
yellow is 94 mustang yellow
engine color is pictured below. i think its a hair more red then it should be but thats ok to me..
car had an alter-k-tion so the shocks were mounted elsewhere. just never found a way that i likes to close those holes up..

engine paint information color map 410C5 purchased 8-3-16.jpg
 
Joe, I think I would either weld a patch over the holes, & paint them, or get a bolt, nut, fender washers, a rubber donut and make it look like a stock shock.
 
Its an eternity since i ran that style of headers but i seem to remeber it being a whole lot better to run angled boots under the headertube on those wires.
i also seem to remember it helping to put the socket on those sparkpluggs from under the header and then put the extension just lightly into the socket for some wiggleroom from betwen the valvecower and that headertube when changing sparkpluggs.
 
1Fast340 said:
Its an eternity since i ran that style of headers but i seem to remeber it being a whole lot better to run angled boots under the headertube on those wires.
i also seem to remember it helping to put the socket on those sparkpluggs from under the header and then put the extension just lightly into the socket for some wiggleroom from betwen the valvecower and that headertube when changing sparkpluggs.
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Thanks 1Fast for the tip! What headers did you replace them with if you did that is?
 
340inabbody said:
Thanks 1Fast for the tip! What headers did you replace them with if you did that is?
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When i first bought the car it had some old Hooker #5116 that had sliptube on the number #1 cylinder at that point the car was very low and the headers actualy made little ditches in the snow when i drove it during my first winder ofcourse i flattened the usual tubes from hitting the ground going over speedbumps,those headers where tight over those sparkpluggs but not terrible,ended up swapping those headers for a different set that im not sure what brand they where but they where clearly cheaper than the Hookers and those where worse,much tighter around those sparkplugs,raised the front of the car some but still flattened the usual problemtubes after a while. After that i bought a set of TTI Step headers,those have alot more clearance around the plugwires as an aded bonus to much better ground clearance,had i known about Dougs headers at that point i might have gone that way since those are also much better when it comes to ground clearance and better plugwireclearance at present i have a set of TTI 17/8" headers and those are also good in those areas.
Didnt realy change due to the sparklpugproblem more to get good groundclearance and a higher quality header.
The headers that i can think of that dont capture those plugwires are Dougs,TTI,Hedman shorty headers but the engineers dropped the ball totaly on collectorlocation and angle,Schumachertri-y headers,Hooker #5204,some multipiece bigtube hedman hussler raceheaders.
Headers that is tight around those plugwires are the basic 1 5/8" headers that we all know about that is somewhat similarlooking between most brands.
 
340Dart said:
On the dash between the wiper switch and radio.

Fred BView attachment 1715275984
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Nice. Some people say its a retard adjustment but if you center it I would call it a timing adjustment. For example if I ran pump gass vs racinng fuel. Would you agree based on your experience? My application would be actually summer heat in AZ vs winter. We run the cars here all year long and there could be as much as an 80 degree swing in the valley depending on time of year. So hot preignition is an isdue. I would love to use it for ping control
 
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