Show off your small block.

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are those stock pistons? I have a 73 360 I plan to rebuild. it's standard bore and pistons look the same

Yep its std bore. It needs at least a .030" overbore to clean it all up. Was out of an old ranch truck. Pretty roughed up. Block and crank are fine though. Got some speedmaster aluminum heads, for it. Going to buy new rods for it too. Cost to refurb the OEM rods makes it a no brainer to just buy new.
 
Well, mine is still under construction. Slow work in progress and nothing compared to some of the engines on here! But here it is anyway.

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Here's a pic of the 360 in my daily driven, beater W250. Putting fabbed valve covers and a new RPM intake on after work tomorrow since I've got them now
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I cant figure out whether the 69 340 Swinger Im about to redo should have a Corp Blue or Hemi Orange engine...
Is there a date that they switched on ?

My 69 Swinger has a 68 340 - PO painted it orange. I have seen red in 68, blue in 69 and the 70 Swinger I had before this one was orange.
 
I cant figure out whether the 69 340 Swinger Im about to redo should have a Corp Blue or Hemi Orange engine...
Is there a date that they switched on ?

In 69 most 340's were Turquoise not blue. Some red ones seem to squeak out though maybe they were early 69' since the 340 was red in 68. 70 they went orange. Then in 72 or 73 they went blue.
 
The old farm truck got a RPM intake tonight. Major improvement over the Torker 340 which didn't run too bad!!!
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really nice stuff out there...my roller 408 ,FAST XFI,the scoop might be temporary.it came with the tunnel ram that came with the car. I needed a place to put IAT sensor and it kinda looked the part

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65 Valiant Signet , Mild 318, Fitech EFI , windshield washer bottle and radiator overflow hidden under the fender apron
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In 69 most 340's were Turquoise not blue. Some red ones seem to squeak out though maybe they were early 69' since the 340 was red in 68. 70 they went orange. Then in 72 or 73 they went blue.
Some call turquoise, blue. Like I did^^^^:thumbsup:
 
Lots of nice iron out there, I've only seen one other motor with the Power Grip hose clamps, any reasons, I think they look and work better than the worm drive clamps, just not as user friendly.

Jeff
 
I like this thread! I have been struggling with how to route and secure my plug wires on my 273 but many of you have done it right. Now I know what I will do.
I have all Powergrip hose clamps on my engine but for some reason I don't have photos yet of the completed engine bay-just parts of it.
I will route and secure some new plug wires and post mine up sometime soon.
Thanks everyone for posting-great work everyone!
 
I like this thread! I have been struggling with how to route and secure my plug wires on my 273 but many of you have done it right. Now I know what I will do.
I have all Powergrip hose clamps on my engine but for some reason I don't have photos yet of the completed engine bay-just parts of it.
I will route and secure some new plug wires and post mine up sometime soon.
Thanks everyone for posting-great work everyone![/QUOT



Power grip, is that the hose clamp you make yourself out of wire?

If so, seems like a pain in the can every time you take a hose off.
 
PowerGrip clamps are the Gates heat-shrink type hose clamps. There is no metal in them. If you look close, you will see a couple motors
in the thread that have no metal on the hoses. Those are the ones with PowerGrip clamps.
 
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