Slacker's Guide to Fixing Up the 68 Notch

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Cuda68Scott

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Hello FABO friends. I have been a member here quite some time, and follow many of your builds and posts. I am very grateful for this forum and the willingness of its members to pass on their knowledge, wisdom, humor, and friendship. Well I have finally decided to begin on my 1968 Barracuda after it has been sitting for about 36 years. I have done very little to the car since I stopped driving it around 1980. So, yes you might say I have been a slacker, thus the title of this build! I think (hope) having a restoration page thread will help me stay more focused and accountable. But I must forewarn you that you will probably see a fair amount of incompetence, indecision, and zero progress on this build! I look forward to your help and discussions so please feel to chime in and shame me to action if necessary!

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Car History

The car is a 1968 318 Coupe with a 904 auto, 7 1/4 rear, and factory air. My uncle had bought the car new in New Mexico. In the summer of 1973 he passed away and I inherited the car. I was in high school at the time and had saved up about $1500 with the intent to purchase a used Duster 340 later that summer. I ended up using some of that $1500 to upgrade the Barracuda with wheels and various bolt-ons. When I picked up the car in New Mexico at my Uncle's residence it was in nearly perfect shape with only 28,000 miles on it. I drove it until about 1980 and it has since been parked at my residence. It has 100200 miles. The body is straight and virtually rust free on this car. I was in a few minor accidents, but had all the damages repaired at reputable body shops. So hopefully the prep work for painting will not be overly complicated but I am sure I will find some bondo in a few places.

Build Goals

Well I am not sure if I should discuss goals here, since that goes against the slacker's creed! I do wish to get the car in good, safe running condition, where I can relive my youth a bit, upset a few neighbors who find unexplainable twin tire marks in front of their homes, and maybe go to some local car shows and hang with the local Arizona FABO contingent. I plan to go through it mechanically and cosmetically where needed and can be afforded, and I hope it will end up as a very nice drivers class of car with a bit of a threatening exhaust rumble.

Over the years I have purchased Formula S badging and hood inserts, but the jury is still out if I will make it a Formula S clone. I have always been enamored with the 340 engine since I got whipped by so many 340 cars in the day. I would really like to have a ~500 horsepower 340 engine in this car, but I am not sure if that will be practical or within my financial means. John aka '67 cuda, has this monster MRL stroker 360 engine in his Cuda that I drool over, and I think since he lives in Nebraska and can't really drive the car in the winter that we should work out a timeshare agreement on his engine - I get it in the winter, he gets its back in the summer?


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My son and I started some work on the car about 15 years ago but did not go far other than removing the rear end, gas tank, and front brakes. He did purchase an A body 8 3/4 with a 3.55s and an Auburn suregrip that will replace the 7.25. I had those door strips installed to prevent dings - they are riveted in - wish now I had never done that!




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Don't judge! I thought the wings on the 340 Dusters were the coolest thing ever, so I went down and ordered an original one from the local Chrysler-Plymouth (Bill Luke) dealer in 1974 and installed it on my Barracuda. I don't think I will keep it on the car but I do get a lot of people that think it was stock. When people asked the purpose of the fin, I always told them it kept my back wheels on the ground when I topped 120 mph!



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You guys remember the racing equipment stickers right! I think I will leave the bottom of the trunk lid including the stickers alone for sentimental reasons, plus the paint is still pretty nice on that side. There are two small drill holes in the lid right below the Accel decal that I cannot for the life of me remember why they are there. Fortunately the holes do not penetrate to the top.


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Here is the mighty 318! Right after I got the car I installed Cyclone headers (not sure if they are still in business anymore), an Offenhauser 360 Dual Port intake, a Holley 600 vacuum secondary carb, an Accel dual point distributor (it broke and I put the original back in), and US Indy Mags with Goodyear Polyglas tires (H60s on the back, E70's on the front). The car ran and looked very good, and I was certainly not the slowest in town. I would get whipped by many, but I do remember beating an occasional 383 Roadrunner and some GM/Ford hipo cars in the day. I kept the car in extremely good tune, and I think that plus the relatively light weight of the Cuda is why I beat many cars that I felt normally should of had more than enough wheaties to take me.



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I pulled my passenger bucket seat to see how the floors look. I did find a build sheet under that seat cushion. It fell to pieces when I tried to remove it due to being baked in the high Arizona heat. I plan to piece it back together.



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Pulling the carpet back a bit under the seat reveals the floor pans have pristine shiny paint. Yep it's a southwest car, no rust on this baby! The yellow you see in lower left is just deteriorated seat cushion dust. I also found another build sheet under the carpet just past the drain plug you see in this pic, but it was not to this car. Boring day at the assembly line that day I guess.



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Found a 3rd build sheet under the back seat cushion. I was able to get most of this one out without too much damage, but it is also extremely brittle. It's a 318 car, so no big deal on the build sheet, but I felt kind of like I was on an archaeological dig. Found a bunch of spare change on the carpet floor, all circa 1977, and also a gas receipt for $0.62 per gallon. Lots of fond memories...


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I was a little surprised that I never used the back seat belts - they were under the back seat with the protective factor plastic wrap still around the clasps. I know I took people for rides all the time, guess I really did not worry about seat belts back then! How did we survive in those unsafe times LOL?



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Trunk and entire car is rust free also thanks to our low humidity!




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I think this may be the original spare or at least one of the original tires on the car - I don't recall ever using it. It's in really good shape, full tread and no age related cracking. It's a Goodyear size D70-14.


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Dash is pretty heat worn with big cracks. About time for a new steering wheel cover! The Auto Meter tach always worked great.



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My uncle liked his cigars and an occasional bit of the nip. Apparently he missed the lighter hole a few times putting it back in the dark! He was a great guy and I still think about him when I look at the car. I think I will leave these marks untouched in his memory.



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Found this box in the trunk, not sure why I kept it. The Edelbrock marketing boys probably had some ad in Hot Rod Magazine that got me hooked into buying this - pretty sure they suggested some big % horsepower increase. You can see it on the engine bay picture on the passenger fenderwall. I am not sure it did much for hotter spark or horsepower but my high school friends thought it was bitchin. I probably claimed my horsepower went up 20 for bragging rights.

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Don't know how many of you had Checker Auto Parts store in your area, but they once had a lifetime warranty on one of their batteries. They lost money with me as I got a lot of free batteries over the years!


Well that's it for now and if you have read this entire post to here, please go get a beer! I plan on tackling the front brakes and suspension first, so I will start posting progress pictures any time now, so says the slacker!
 
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Great story.We are fortunate to have and find cars with no rust out this way.The notch is one of my all time favorites.Your story is familiar to a friend and my two brothers.They all have project cars for over 40 years and still aren't drive-able !!! I have a 68 Valiant 273 project but it has only been 2 years.Keep pluggin' away,,looking forward to seeing it done and driving again !!
 
Thanks for the kind words guys. A piece of build advice I have often seen on FABO is try to do something each day on the car, no matter how insignificant. I am pretty sure I will never meet that rule because I have very good excuses (ahem, cough, cough, slacker...) but you guys can hold me to the fire!
 
I would personally not dig into a full blown restore, I would put the rear in, tank ect, get it road worthy and enjoy it! Just my 2c
 
I would personally not dig into a full blown restore, I would put the rear in, tank ect, get it road worthy and enjoy it! Just my 2c
Amen, that's the new lease on life I'm taking. I'm sick of doing full blown restos and never enjoying my car's. Great advice!
 
Great starting point slacker dude. The car looks a lot like my 67, I started with a car that was about the same shape as yours. I drove mine for about 18 months before blowing it apart 6 or 7 years ago and I am not a slacker, just have a job that sucks the life out of me. I plan on having mind on the road and finished by mid/late spring. I look forward to watching you get yours going too.
Good luck--------------DR----------------:)
 
I would personally not dig into a full blown restore, I would put the rear in, tank ect, get it road worthy and enjoy it! Just my 2c

I wholeheartedly agree with that replicaracer, though with my mediocre skills even that will take some time!!

Great starting point slacker dude. The car looks a lot like my 67, I started with a car that was about the same shape as yours. I drove mine for about 18 months before blowing it apart 6 or 7 years ago and I am not a slacker, just have a job that sucks the life out of me. I plan on having mind on the road and finished by mid/late spring. I look forward to watching you get yours going too.
Good luck--------------DR----------------:)
Just looked at your build thread Desert Rat - nice work and I am following it now.
 
Yep^^^^^ I'm with the guys above.I have more fun driving a "Nice"car with faded paint, a few dings and dents,mechanical sound and safe.I've had the top shelf cars with $10,000 paint jobs and boo-coo dollars in a resto/rebuild.Then was afraid to drive it.....No more for this guy...
 
Think keepin the lighter scars is cool, part of your cars personality. Even dropping in a stock 360 is simple and cheap with your 318 start, and as light as the car is you might be surprised. You are so lucky with a solid body and decent interior. Just remember 1 step at a time. You can do it!!!!
 
My Cuda originally came with 10 inch drums all around and I plan to install KH disc brakes. I have a complete KH setup that I recently purchased from FABO member Demon540 from Wisconsin and I also purchased a second set of calipers from a local guy in the Phoenix area who has a real nice blue Duster 340. Seems like I got a pretty decent deal, but just like usual as soon as I buy something I see somebody selling a nicer set for less money!

So I thought I would document my disassembly and rebuild on the KH, maybe it will be helpful to others. This is pretty detailed, and you will probably find this boring unless you happen to be interesting in rebuilding a KH caliper. I fully acknowledge by posting activity so soon in my restoration thread I may lose my Slackers Association credentials, but I am almost positive I will make up for it later.

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So I am starting with the 2 KH calipers I purchased here locally. I will keep my other 2 in reserve in case these have issues.


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The first step was simply removing the disc pad retaining bolts with a 7/16" socket.



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Both retainers removed.



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Disc pads just easily pull up and out once retainers are removed.



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Close up of 2 of the 4 caliper pistons. You can see they are a bit corroded. I tried to see if I could pull them out by applying finger force - no chance, they are in there good! I had been doing a little research on FABO to see what the best way to get these pistons out and it seemed the general consensus was either by air or using a grease gun to pressurize the caliper to push them out. Apparently there are some rare puller tools out there designed for KH pistons but the key word is rare (and probably expensive too). I also had seen on a Mustang site where somebody had used air successfully so that is the route I went.



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My massive air compressor! Not as big as I would like, but it works for most of the things I need it for so far. 30 gallons, 120 v, and runs great. Bought it on sale a couple of years ago at Tractor Supply for $250, not bad I thought.


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So this depicts my basic method of removing the caliper pistons: Closing two pistons down with clamps and applying air pressure to the inlet brake line hole. You can see where the 2 pistons popped out. On first caliper this worked great on all the pistons , on the second caliper I had one piston that was stubborn. I eventually got it to pop out a little where I was able to get a channel lock plier on it and work it out the rest of the way. I put the caliper in a box to do this since you get a some residual brake fluid that sprays out with the air pressure. You certainly would want to do this away from any vehicles since brake fluid can ruin paint.



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In this pic you can see where I had already removed the pistons on the one caliper side, and now I am removing the crossover tube using 3/8 inch flare nut wrench and will blow air down that hole to remove the pistons on the opposite side. That piston on the upper right was the troublesome one. Once the pistons are removed you can just pull the 4 rubber dust seals out with your fingers. Just a note on the flare wrench - I did not have any SAE size flare wrenches in my toolbox so I ended up cheaping out and getting a set at Harbor Freight for about $10 with the obligatory 20% off coupon. Worked great on this project - can't complain.



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So this is what I ended up with after removing all the caliper pistons and dust seals.


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I just noticed at this point one of the calipers was missing a bolt. This bolt hold the 2 caliper halves together. I took the other one out and will see if I can match it up with a grade 8 bolt at Ace Hardware. It looks like about a 9/16 x 2 inch bolt, so hopefully will not be hard to find.


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This is what I am seeing inside the caliper cylinders with piston removed. Some corrosion but most places I do not think too bad. This is about the worst. My thought is the caliper piston seals against the rubber ring inside, and as long as it moves smoothly in the cylinder that a little corrosion is not a big deal as it would be in a drum brake wheel cylinder. Anybody ever honed these?


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I used a brass pick to pull out the rubber ring seals in the piston cylinders. Somewhere I read not to use steel picks as to avoid scratching the groove. After seeing how easy the seals came out, I could have easily got them with my regular steel picks without issue.

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Just in case you were interested in knowing where I got my picks. Amazon for about $11. Anybody remember the smell of Hoppes gun cleaner? These brass picks are pretty decent and now that I have them they will probably come in handy for cleaning guns!


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Pic shows the machined grooves after I removed the seals. The first groove is where the dust seal fits it, the second groove is where the fluid seal fits in. Some folks on FABO have posted that this second groove really needs to be clean and good shape or you will run into sealing problems. This particular cylinder was the worst of the eight. After I took the pic I was able to pick a fair amount of the brown corrosion/goop out of there with the brass pick. Hopefully it will be okay after I degrease it and de-rust it.


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So my next step was just spraying all the parts down with this degreaser, letting sit for a few minutes, then brushing thoroughly with a toothbrush. I then rinsed it off with water and dried if off with rags. After that I placed the parts in a bucket filled with Evaporust. I don't know much about this degreaser, just saw it in Home Depot and decided to give it a try. It kind of burns my lungs and skin and so it must be good! If you have a better degreaser choice please shout out.

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Here is the bucket I used for the Evaporust. A $3 buck Home Depot 5 gallon bucket with a Gamma Seal on it. I occasionally have a few grandkids running around so this seal reduces the worry about them tipping over the bucket.



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If you haven't used these Gamma lids before, they are pretty nice. They run about $7 at Home Depot and make your bucket air and water tight. I have about 2 gallons of Evaporust poured in waiting for duty.


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Inside I have all my caliper parts peacefully soaking in Evaporust. I have several questions about Evaporust such as how long should I soak and how many times can I use the same solution - I will probably post a new thread to ask that specifically. Feel free to chime in if you have any experience or a scientific guess. I plan in my next report to show the rust removal results - stay tuned.
 
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:thumbsup:

Glad to see you're getting your hands dirty by something other than running your fingers through your hair. Keep up with the progress documentation (especially with pictures). You'll be glad you did later when you realize you can't remember your dog's name let alone what parts you've installed and need replacements.

Scott, pay no attention to those people telling you to go out and drive it 'as is'. Think of all those bucks that have been burning a hole in your pocket and would otherwise be wasted on retirement, groceries, or some such nonsense. I say GO FOR IT! - Put in a Hemi! Heck, put in two!!

If she turns out to be a real show piece when you're done, drive the wheels off it anyway. You'll stop worrying about the paint chips after the first half dozen.

Gas mileage, gas schmileage! Unless you're planning on a lot of long trips, you'll find the fear you're capable of putting in each pimple-faced owner of a rice grinder will make it all feel worthwhile. (at least until you pull into the next gas station)
 
Glad to see you're getting your hands dirty by something other than running your fingers through your hair. Keep up with the progress documentation (especially with pictures). You'll be glad you did later when you realize you can't remember your dog's name let alone what parts you've installed and need replacements.

I only have 2 hairs left on my head, could I use the thick mane in my nose and ears instead?

Scott, pay no attention to those people telling you to go out and drive it 'as is'. Think of all those bucks that have been burning a hole in your pocket and would otherwise be wasted on retirement, groceries, or some such nonsense. I say GO FOR IT! - Put in a Hemi! Heck, put in two!!

If you will bring that up to my wife, I will tell your wife the same...

Gas mileage, gas schmileage! Unless you're planning on a lot of long trips, you'll find the fear you're capable of putting in each pimple-faced owner of a rice grinder will make it all feel worthwhile. (at least until you pull into the next gas station)

You know a pimply faced Honda Civic sputtered past me just yesterday and I actually thought if "only I had the Cuda going I would put the fear of a fire breathing V8 in that doofus". There is something about the tinny resonance from a fart canned 4 banger that just punches my button.

 
So I am proceeding slowly but slackerly with my caliper rebuild. Well I am pretty pleased with the Evaporust, it seems to do an excellent job of rust removal.

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This was after a 24 hour soak. The caliper on the lower left had a little rust still on top, probably due that it was laying on that side in the bucket. I went ahead and halved that caliper and stuck it back in the Evaporust for another day and it took care of the job.

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I am pretty sure you find my high tech rinsing method amazing - how did I come up with this idea?. The bucket on the left is where the parts have been soaking in Evaporust. I pull them out, hold them over the empty bucket on the right to catch the drips and spray them thoroughly with warm water from that spray bottle. Then when I feel its good and rinsed, I hand dry them with a rag, and also blow the orifices out with my air gun. I have the luxury of warm and dry weather in AZ, so things dry out quick with not much worry about rust.



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Pretty poor picture but the bucket of Evaporust is no longer clear, it is about the color of coffee after treating the calipers and a few related pieces. I will keep using it until I do not see results - next on board will be the spindles and hub.


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Inside most of the caliper cylinders I am seeing some pitting/corrosion around the fluid entry holes. Brake guru FABO member hemi71x confirmed some of my thoughts and told me not to worry about this pitting as the piston seals around the rubber seal ring that fits into the second groove. He recommended just a light touch up on the cylinder with either a flap wheel on a Dremel tool or just use some sandpaper. hemi71x must be clairvoyant because he told me in a post in the FABO brakes forum not to lose sleep over corrosion in these things - I was actually thinking about it before I fell asleep the other night....


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Another highly technical pic - I just did a some very light sanding with small pieces of sandpaper using just my fingers. I first used some 150 grit emory cloth than some 320 grit. This basically just cleaned them up a little and took a few of the minor rough edges of the corrosion off. My goal is just to make sure the caliper piston slides smoothly in the bore.



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I test fit one of the new caliper pistons in each of the cylinders and they all seemed slide in and out without problem.


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On the right is a new Centric caliper piston that I purchased from Rock Auto. The one on the left is the old one, not sure what brand. A couple of minor differences - the Centric is a little over a 32nd inch shorter and its dust seal groove is more chamfered on the one side. Also the very bottom seems to be chamfered at a little different angle. I don't think it should make any difference in operation. Overall I think the Centric's look fine, they are steel and aluminum - they were $7.61 each. Rock Auto also lists some more expensive Raybestos pistons at $12.80 each that are listed as steel phenolic steel? I assumed there is some plastic in there somewhere so I avoided those.



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I was missing one of the bolts on one of the calipers that hold the two caliper halves together, the new bolt is on the right. Just for reference the bolt is a 1/2 Inch x 1 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt. That and the lockwasher ran $1.83 at my local Ace Hardware. Ace always seems to have a much better selection of nuts and bolts than Home Depot or Lowes. I am curious why the one bolt was missing from one of the calipers - probably was cannibalized by the guy that sold them to me to replace one he had missing. Also in this pic shows the result of the second dunk of the Evaporust in that it took the rest of the rust off.


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Another hint I learned on the FABO brake forum was to check the pad rails for areas that have been excessively worn by the pad frames. Well, yes both of my calipers do have some wear -if you look carefully in the pic above the arrows show where the disc pad frames have caused some abnormal wear on the rail. You readily feel it with your fingers and when I put a disc pad on there it was very apparent that these "divots" hinder movement to some extent. I had already done a little hand filing on the rails in this picture.

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After about 10 minutes of work per caliper with some hand files, I eliminated the divots and smoothed the rail.

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I tested a pad in my newly filed rails - they slide much easier now. These are Centric Ceramic pads - got them at Rock Auto. The set for both calipers was $22.79.


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What, a package came for me today? Early Christmas? Why yes it is:


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Picked up a couple of these new stainless steel caliper crossover tubes from Summit. I like shopping for a deal, am usually unsuccessful, but this time ended up getting these cheaper from Summit than if I would have ordered it straight from Right Stuff. These ended up at $32 with free shipping because I ordered some other stuff like a gallon of Evaporust and some offset upper control arm bushings. I went for the stainless steel lines here - not sure why, probably did not need to, guess money was burning a hole in my pocket that day. Seems like I am spending a fair amount of money on this caliper rebuild; when I get these done I will have to see if I came out ahead over just buying some rebuilt units from Rock Auto, pretty sure I will be very close!

Well all I need to do now is paint and assemble. I do have a lame slackers excuse to avoid doing this tomorrow - Thanksgiving! Going to give a try at smoking a turkey.

Please have a great Thanksgiving and take some time to enjoy your family and friends, and tell them how you appreciate them - life is short!
 
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It looks like the brake system is in good hands. I know it'll take a bit more time to get that done but I'm already wondering what you're going to tackle next.
 
Excellent write up! Makes me wanna start on mine. Have you got part #'s for pads n pistons?
Cheers
Steve
 
Excellent write up! Makes me wanna start on mine. Have you got part #'s for pads n pistons?
Cheers
Steve

Hi Steve, got them all at Rock Auto:

Pistons: CENTRIC 14641009 Steel & Aluminum Caliper Pistons
Pads: CENTRIC 30100110 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims
Seals: (Consists of dust seals and piston seals): CENTRIC 14363021 Brake Caliper Repair Kit

I see the pistons are made in Canada, those gotta be quality!


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It looks like the brake system is in good hands. I know it'll take a bit more time to get that done but I'm already wondering what you're going to tackle next.

Well if I wasn't so darn full of the Thanksgiving meal I would be tackling a cold craft beer right now! Man am I still stuffed! Oh the car you mean? Well I think I will take on the front suspension, removing all the control arms, torsion bars, etc. and replace the worn parts, bushings, ball joints, etc.
 
Awesome, thanks! Good to see some good stuff still made here.
Maybe time to tackle the calipers. No worries on the slacker my 69 vert is going on 25 years now. Lol

Hi Steve, got them all at Rock Auto:

Pistons: CENTRIC 14641009 Steel & Aluminum Caliper Pistons
Pads: CENTRIC 30100110 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims
Seals: (Consists of dust seals and piston seals): CENTRIC 14363021 Brake Caliper Repair Kit

I see the pistons are made in Canada, those gotta be quality!


View attachment 1714992571 View attachment 1714992572 View attachment 1714992573
 
So yes I am living up to the slacker lifestyle. Things got busy after the holidays and family commitments kept me mostly away from working on the Barracuda. The family commitments have been good, including spending time with my kids and grandkids and also getting an elk hunt in Arizona's White Mountains. My son in law and I both got cow elks and I now have a full freezer.

So I have finally finished up the rebuild of my Kelsey Hayes calipers (well mostly) and in the pics below I have the details and my approach to the final rebuild assembly. I am keeping this fairly pic heavy and detailed with the intent of maybe making this a "how to KH caliper rebuild" thread at a later date.

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Just thought it would be good to start out the post with some good old bathroom humor. My wife and I were shopping at Target the other day and saw this game on the shelf and I had to snap a picture. Have no idea on how the game is played! I should add this photo as a warning to all of my posts.


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After the rust removal treatment I painted the parts.

For most of the parts I used VHT black satin caliper paint that I purchased at Autozone. For a few of the smaller parts I used Seymour cast iron gray color paint that I bought online at Zoro.


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The VHT caliper paint is supposed to "cure" as you use your brakes to harden and become more chemical resistant. I really like the Cast Blast color of the Seymour paint and think I will use that for many of my suspension components.


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In preparation to install seals and caliper pistons I coated the internals with a light layer of brake fluid.


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Since I will completely replacing all my brake components including lines I plan to use the DOT 5 brake fluid. There is a little controversy on FABO and other forums on DOT 5 fluid, but it seems that the actual users have nothing but good to say about it. The benefits over DOT 3 as I understand them are that is does not eat paint, and it does not absorb water.


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I poured a little DOT 5 into a cup and used a small paint brush to coat the calipers and seals prior to install. Notice the cool purple color of the Dot 5, another advantage I should have mentioned to support my fanboy representation of the fluid.


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Installing the piston seal in the lower groove on the caliper. These went in easily with just my fingers and working them around.


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Piston seal all in.

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Then I installed the dust seals into the top groove. This took a little more manipulation to work it into the groove than the caliper seal, but really no problem.



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Close up showing the caliper seal and dust seal installed.


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Next step was installing pistons. I just coated the outside of the piston with a little brake fluid, and worked it into the dust seal and the caliper piston cylinder. As I worked the piston into the dust seal I could easily get the top lip of the dust seal into the groove in the caliper piston. Once the top lip was in, I just gave it a little emphasis to move the piston farther down past the rubber piston seal and it was a done deal. Repeated 7 more times for the other caliper cylinders.

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Once I got all the seals and pistons installed, I bolted the caliper halves together and installed the crossover tubes, hydraulic hose, hose bracket, keeper, disc pads, and pad hold downs. All fairly straight forward bolt on affairs.


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So several months ago I purchased some hose from Rock Auto. Even though it was listed on Rock Auto as the correct part for a 1968 Cuda I determined that I got the wrong hose. Lesson learned is to better inspect the part when it comes in, as Rock Auto only takes things back for 30 days so I was out of luck for returns.



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Here is the end of the old correct hose. Notice the flat side.


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Here is the new hose. Notice the lack of flat side on the fitting. Oops!


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The reason for the flattened hose fitting is to fit into this bracket that holds the hose close to the caliper.


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So I just took a hand file to the end of the fitting and flattened it, figured I had nothing to lose.


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Problem solved, got it to fit with about 5 minutes of file work. But for the future the correct hose #'s for the flattened end are: Wagner BH66718, NAPA BH36654, Car Quest BHA66718 CHW, Dorman H66718, or Raybestos BH36654 (these #'s courtesy of FABO member hemi71x from another thread).



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These were the Right Stuff stainless steel crossover and rubber hose connection lines I used in the rebuild. They all required a bit of push and pull to get lined up and threaded on the calipers. One of the hose connection lines must have been quite a bit off in the bends because it took me a good deal of manipulating and swearing to get in place. These stainless steel lines seemed to be resistant to much bending, kind of like me, so I am not sure if I will continue using stainless in the rest of the brake system.


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I have two original OEM caliper to spindle bolts. They are a little different than standard bolts, supposedly in shoulder diameter. I need two more and just ordered them from FABO member hemidart67, who had a batch made just to sell to lacking FABO members like me. I could have used run of the mill regular 7/16 by 1 3/4 x 20 grade 8 bolts , but the 1 3/4 size are not stocked locally that I could find, and delivered would have cost me almost as much as the original design bolts that hemidart67 sells. His sale thread for these bolts is: [FOR SALE] - Reproduction Kelsey Hayes caliper bolts


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So I am basically done with this caliper project for the time being. These calipers will go on the shelf while I now begin to rebuild the front end/suspension.

Let's see how I fared in my rebuild costs compared to buying a fully rebuilt unit from Rock Auto:

Used calipers $50 each
Pistons: CENTRIC 14641009 Steel & Aluminum Caliper Pistons $30.40 per caliper
Pads: CENTRIC 30100110 Premium Ceramic Pads w/Shims $11.40 per wheel
Seals: (Consists of dust seals and piston seals): CENTRIC 14363021 $7.29 per wheel
Hose: CENTRIC 15062015 $5.32 wheel
Bolt: Ace Hardware $1.83
Evaporust: Appx $10
Parts Shipping: $10
Total Parts Rebuild Costs per caliper: $126.24

Rebuilt Raybestos unit from Rock Auto with core charge & shipping and shipping core back: $138

Ha! Only saved about $24 to rebuild these two calipers myself over ordering an already rebuilt units from Rock Auto. I feel reasonably confident my rebuilt calipers will fully function plus I gained some for knowledge for future brake repairs. I also think my pistons and pads might be a grade above the rebuilt Raybestos units.
 
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