slant 6 oil weight

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I guess my question is that, will 10-30 be good enough to lubricate a bit stiffer valve springs crane springs similiar to the mopar red 340 springs. Also cam is the loved and hated 292 mopar purple grind. I live in San Antonio,Texas where it gets toasty in summer and winter is mild. Or 10-40 could be a better choice? My driving is for the most part "normal" with spirited jaunts here and there. My engine/bearing clearances are factory. Oil pump is stock pressure/flow. Windage tray and oil slinger are only things I added.
 
I've upgraded to a high-lift, short-duration in my slant six and have been using 340 valve springs since 1987. I've always run 10W-30 except for the time I tried 15W-40. Any modern CK-4 heavy duty oil with the Ford WSS-M2C171-F1 approval should have enough ZDDP to protect your valve train. I would stay away from racing oils because they have less detergents than HDEOs, which means you'll need to change your oil a lot more often to minimize sludge formation.

Unless your oil runs really hot, you'll get more flow to your bearings with a thinner oil (like 10W-30) than a thicker oil like (10W-40). Chrysler spec'ed 20W-40 oils for summer operation so I would go with a 15W-40 if your low temperatures rarely fall below +32°F. See Chrysler Oil Recommendations and Engine Wear.
 
3 pages of charts graphs and hogwash. Almost as bad as the crankcase breather/pcv valve thread.
 
From a 1976 Chrysler FSM---10w30 to 20w50 is recommended when the temperature is above 32F. ---- Straight 30 weight is also included.
 
Why not add my two cents so I can beat that horse a little more. Here at Crower we have tested so many oils I cant even keep track of it all anymore. But here are the top four that we have tested. Driven, Brad Penn, VR-1 and last but not least is Rotella T-4 & T-6 50-50 blend. I get asked all the time what do I use in my daily driver slant six and I use the 50-50 blend Rotella. I drive my car 50 miles a day on the freeway at 2,500 rpm and just changed to a 200 4r trans and that dropped it too 2,000rpm. I just pulled the engine to do a 30,000 mile inspection. Also to do some work with Fast Fish for a billet rear main seal housing to use with their one cut rear main seal. Horse has fully been beaten now. Ha ha ha ha ha
 
But here are the top four that we have tested. Driven, Brad Penn, VR-1 and last but not least is Rotella T-4 & T-6 50-50 blend. I get asked all the time what do I use in my daily driver slant six and I use the 50-50 blend Rotella.
Why are you mixing Rotella T-4 & T-6 into a 50-50 blend? And are you mixing the same grade?
 
I just can't understand why the need for designer oils in a slant six. Every slant six engine I have ever had, since 1974, whether stock or modified, got Parts store "house brand" 10w-30, and I have never had a oil related failure. Damm it ain't the space shuttle, and Unckel Sam ain't paying for it.
 
I just can't understand why the need for designer oils in a slant six. Every slant six engine I have ever had, since 1974, whether stock or modified, got Parts store "house brand" 10w-30, and I have never had a oil related failure. Damm it ain't the space shuttle, and Unckel Sam ain't paying for it.


As with all motors
 
I can't believe i read all the threads.
My worthless opinion= all /6's require oil to run. Sometimes Not!
i guess vegetable oil Hasn't been tried!
 
We have some old machines at work. I try to figure out what oil they are supposed to have. But sometimes it comes to ‘any oil is better than no oil’ to keep them running.
 
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