Slant 6 Pedals/ clutch linkage swap

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mycuda

mycuda

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Got 5.2 Magnum /833 4 speed drivetrain in cant get clutch adjusted to release disc.
I need a longer adjuster rod? Hopefully not wrong TO bearing......

Thanks in advance
Dave
 
I've been having similar problems in my /6 1964 Val. Seemed to be ok when clutch was new 2 years ago but I started having problems getting in first or reverse. This is the original non-synchro first and reverse 3 speed.

My clutch rod was extended out to the max length to the point where the threaded rod was barely engaging the sleeve on the other end. About 3 weeks ago I obtained some 1/2" o.d. tubing and welded a 1" long hunk on the end of the sleeve and reinstalled. I adjusted for 1" free play at the pedal. It's better but still crunches going into first or reverse while sitting still.

I need to take the inspection cover off the bottom of the bell housing and check departure while someone pushes the pedal in. I'm just not fast enough to push the pedal in and get under the car before it returns by myself.

It's kinda moot now with the end of the driving season and plans for a 4 speed conversion before spring.
 
KosmicKuda said:
I've been having similar problems in my /6 1964 Val. Seemed to be ok when clutch was new 2 years ago but I started having problems getting in first or reverse. This is the original non-synchro first and reverse 3 speed.

My clutch rod was extended out to the max length to the point where the threaded rod was barely engaging the sleeve on the other end. About 3 weeks ago I obtained some 1/2" o.d. tubing and welded a 1" long hunk on the end of the sleeve and reinstalled. I adjusted for 1" free play at the pedal. It's better but still crunches going into first or reverse while sitting still.

I need to take the inspection cover off the bottom of the bell housing and check departure while someone pushes the pedal in. I'm just not fast enough to push the pedal in and get under the car before it returns by myself.

It's kinda moot now with the end of the driving season and plans for a 4 speed conversion before spring.
Click to expand...


Thanks for response.
In my case looks like not enough travel in z bar angle to push pressure plate in enough?
It is /6 3 on tree z bar set up Im using...… meant to say that in initial post.
Are they different?
If so why?

Thanks, Dave
 
You have a 6cyl pedal and need an 8cyl system
You will need to mod your pedal arm
Follow the down-rod from the Z-bar up to it's pivot pin inside the car. You will have to move that pin about a half inch further away from a similar pin at the other end of that bar. Measure it now, cut the bar. splice in a HD similarly sized piece of metal to increase the distance by .5 inch.
There is a thread on FABO about doing this mod.....with pics
 
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Nope, not it. I found this pic. See those two matching pins at opposite ends of the bar? The distance between those on a V8 pedal should be IIRC 6 inches . I'm checking now. Whatever yours is just make it 6"
Four-Speed A-Body Clutch Pedal Adjustment - Torque Shaft Rod - Mopar Muscle Magazine
click on the images at the bottom of the article

dscf0200-jpg.jpg


b87eba1a-5667-421d-a5a0-cde9e5e4c116-jpeg.jpg
 
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Don't forget to reset your freeplay, and you will have to relearn to not push the clutch pedal to the floor anymore so you don't jam the clutch fingers into the disc; start off with extra freeplay. You only need to push the pedal far enough so it doesn't grind going into reverse. When selecting reverse; after depressing the clutch, give the cluster a couple of seconds to stop spinning, then pull the stick. The amount of time required depends on the viscosity and temperature of the oil you are using,and the amount of drag given to the disc by the flywheel, which varies with the amount of departure, and the idle speed.
If you have a diaphragm clutch, remove that big over-centering spring and leave it off.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Don't forget to reset your freeplay, and you will have to relearn to not push the clutch pedal to the floor anymore so you don't jam the clutch fingers into the disc; start off with extra freeplay. You only need to push the pedal far enough so it doesn't grind going into reverse. When selecting reverse; after depressing the clutch, give the cluster a couple of seconds to stop spinning, then pull the stick. The amount of time required depends on the viscosity and temperature of the oil you are using,and the amount of drag given to the disc by the flywheel, which varies with the amount of departure, and the idle speed.
If you have a diaphragm clutch, remove that big over-centering spring and leave it off.
Click to expand...
Stock 9.5 " clutch setup.
measurement 5".
Why couldnt I lengthen clutch pedal rod going to z bar? Seems a hell of alot easier.
only thing I see as a problem would be
possibly hitting fenderwell.could always
massage that lol..

Dave
 
Because lengthening the downrod does ZERO for the pedal ratio. All that would do is reclock the Z-bar and cause you to have to shorten the adjuster link, and you would even lose ratio with that idea.

A stock SBM V8 clutch is a 10.5
TO bearing is same for all SBMs
Before you start on pulling that pedal out, make sure your fork is not hitting the bellhouse window at full pedal.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Because lengthening the downrod does ZERO for the pedal ratio. All that would do is reclock the Z-bar and cause you to have to shorten the adjuster link, and you would even lose ratio with that idea.

A stock SBM V8 clutch is a 10.5
TO bearing is same for all SBMs
Before you start on pulling that pedal out, make sure your fork is not hitting the bellhouse window at full pedal.
Click to expand...

This is 1965 Dart 833/Trans 9.5" clutch.
Only using this cause it was basically new and had bell. 10.5" obviously better choice.

I will inspect fork,TB at full pedal later today, Thanks
 
That 9.5 was designed for up to about 300 ftlbs, and You know a 5.2 Magnum makes that probably by 3200 rpm, probably less.Anyway, that 9.5clutch and the short-arm pedal are a match , therefore, you shouldn't have to mod it to the aforementioned 6inch pin-to-pin measurement.
Instead, look to the fork-travel, that it isn't hitting the rear of the window.
And also to the Z-bar orientation; that it is installed parallel to the ground and at right angle to the centerline of the car. And that at the transmission end, it parks far enough forward that it will pass thru plumb at about half-de-clutched. And that the adjuster-link, also at half-travel, is about parallel to the ground.
If your install hits all these marks, and your disc is known not to be warped, and the engine mounts are known to be not-torn.Then
you will have to actually measure the clutch departure. You need to have at least .080. If you do not have the minimum .080 departure, now is the time to mod the pedal
But if you do have the .080 minimum, then:
It may be that the clutch is dragging from; an out-of-alignment bellhouse, or a tight pilot bushing, or the input shaft is jammed into the back of the crank, or the clutch pedal is not parking properly at the top of it's stroke; Or, I suppose the disc could be in backwards, or hanging up on the splines. Or you inadvertently used the overdrive 5.125 opening bell ,without the ring-spacer, to convert it down to 4.35.
If none of these apply, then IDK.
One other thing IDK, is if the 9.5 takes a 9.5-specific TO bearing. But if you can push the TO up to the clutch fingers with the adjuster rod, then this shouldn't be an issue....... unless the Fork hits the back of the window, before the .080 departure is achieved. If it does, you may be able to get a taller fork pivot to restore the relationship.

I suspect when you installed the V8 bell, that fork pivot was for a 10.5clutch, and you will have to swap it out for the longer/taller one. The proof is in the fork hitting the back of the window, and still not getting the .080 minimum departure. Well the trained eye will see it rightaway, just by looking at the install; at rest, the parked fork will not be all the way forward in the window, nearly touching the bell there.
Man, I just don't know how my posts always get to be so long........
 
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AJ/FormS said:
That 9.5 was designed for up to about 300 ftlbs, and You know a 5.9 Magnum makes that probably by 3500 rpm, probably less.Anyway, that 9.5clutch and the short-arm pedal are a match , therefore, you shouldn't have to mod it to the aforementioned 6inch pin-to-pin measurement.
Instead, look to the fork-travel, that it isn't hitting the rear of the window.
And also to the Z-bar orientation; that it is installed parallel to the ground and at right angle to the centerline of the car. And that at the transmission end, it parks far enough forward that it will pass thru plumb at about half-de-clutched. And that the adjuster-link, also at half-travel, is about parallel to the ground.
If your install hits all these marks, and your disc is known not to be warped, and the engine mounts are known to be not-torn.Then
you will have to actually measure the clutch departure. You need to have at least .080. If you do not have the minimum .080 departure, now is the time to mod the pedal
But if you do have the .080 minimum, then:
It may be that the clutch is dragging from; an out-of-alignment bellhouse, or a tight pilot bushing, or the input shaft is jammed into the back of the crank, or the clutch pedal is not parking properly at the top of it's stroke; Or, I suppose the disc could be in backwards, or hanging up on the splines.
If none of these apply, then IDK.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for responding to temporary unknown issues.
5.2 magnum runs great,as well as in gear with drive train/rear end and above ground.
Do not hear any noises coming from clutch system while starting in gear and running at idle or giving it gas.
I will look into this weekend and respond with what I hopefully find.
I know this clutch is weak,but good enough for now to get car completed
and on the street(sensibly)...LOL
Dave
 
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mycuda said:
Thanks again for responding to temporary unknown issues.
5.2 magnum runs great,as well as in gear with drive train/rear end and above ground.
Do not hear any noises coming from clutch system while starting in gear and running at idle or giving it gas.
I will look into this weekend and respond with what I hopefully find.
I know this clutch is weak,but good enough for now to get car completed
and on the street(sensibly)...LOL
Dave
Click to expand...



update.
still 1/2" between fork and bell.
going to make spacer frontside of fork.
Since im out of threads on adjuster.
But enough to keep inside fork hole.
Let you know manana.
Or weld up oval hole on adjuster bolt
giving me another 3/8" travel.

Dave
 
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