Slant rebuild primer

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Rings turn at 6 RPM due to cross hatch? Ha, a wealth of info...... @18:30
 
cold engine valve adjustment is .004 tighter than a hot lash....@15:00 Trick 1 piece oil seal @8:48. This is becoming a regular newbs intro to a slant rebuild. I learned something!
 
Super Comps and Offy dont play well together? Fail......@15.50
 
Super Comps and Offy dont play well together? Fail......@15.55
These guys are definitely newbees, along with no mention of a compression bump, or port work, the two things a slant needs most, they time the cam by ‘aligning the dots’ how bush league can you get. Notice that they also have the cam bolt Belleville Washer on backwards. The convex side goes out toward the bolt head.
No doubt they completely gasketed and RTV’d that truck oil pan on to find it would not fit around the Duster K frame,, rookies.
A real shop would have made an adapter to fit the slant to the dyno.
Lastly, why do they compare the chassis dyno numbers using different criteria?
The stock engine gets its hp base line at 67 mph,, what RPM is that?
Their built motor gets its hp base at a reasonable 4500 RPM.
Were they doing that to simply enlarge the perceived improvement to their build?
Why not just show the RPM- HP- Torque charts?
 
Ah yeah...slanty gets the proper pan @9:33! They fess up @9:44..132 at the wheels, that aint too bad. The balance session afterwords was informative. The rod hanger is hard to fab and get repeatable results, as well as the scale. Dont go crazy trying to get it down to under a gram resolution, you'll go in circles.
 
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Isn't this just a dupe-lo-cation of the PowerNation TV deal? I'm not sittin' to watch this, but Pish's description sounds like Deja-vu all over again, w/an oil pan f-up..................
 
Dont know what the original was from, this was just a 'Engine Power' youtube video, but with a PN icon? Probably a 'retweet'.
 
Rings turn at 6 RPM due to cross hatch? Ha, a wealth of info...... @18:30

Ha! Then why do we offset the ring gaps at assembly? After a few minutes running that would be negated as there would be no way all the rings rotate at the same speed to maintain the spacing.

Also, a true cross hatch has lines crossing each other, effectively cancelling each other out. There is no screw thread effect driving the rings to rotate.

I believe they switched to a cast crank which is substantially lighter than the original forged one. That's worth some HP.
 
Big ends were wider on the forged crank rods..who knew? @6:50



I've known it a long time. I thought everybody knew the forged and cast crank rods were different. I think the blocks are even different.
 
I've known it a long time. I thought everybody knew the forged and cast crank rods were different. I think the blocks are even different.
There you go thinking that I was thinking...you'd be wrong. :D
 
There you go thinking that I was thinking...you'd be wrong. :D

Really? I couldda sworn the blocks were different. What the hell do I know? Not much evidently. lol
 
so building a cast crank 225 limits your rod selection as the 1.21 forged big end width seems to be the only K1, Molnar or Wiseco rod you can get now. .940 width rods are out of production/ sold out?
Cast crank blocks different? You were thinking correctly..."The cast crankshaft uses a different block..." what difference is, maybe this:
"...Cast crank mains were more narrow also. Maybe the block webbing reflected a more narrow main.
"..Early (forged crank) main bearings are 1.027 inch wide (26.11mm)
Late (cast crank) main bearings are 0.881 inch wide (22.38mm)..
"

<<<PS. the hydro lifter block may have been cast 12 lbs lighter, but the rear cam bearing being changed to fully grooved is obvious. Slantsix Dan may have more info on block changes...>>>
 
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so building a cast crank 225 limits your rod selection as the 1.21 forged big end width seems to be the only K1, Molnar or Wiseco rod you can get now. .940 width rods are out of production/ sold out?
Cast crank blocks different? You were thinking correctly..."The cast crankshaft uses a different block..." what difference is, maybe this:
"...Cast crank mains were more narrow also. Maybe the block webbing reflected a more narrow main.
"..Early (forged crank) main bearings are 1.027 inch wide (26.11mm)
Late (cast crank) main bearings are 0.881 inch wide (22.38mm)..
"

<<<PS. the hydro lifter block may have been cast 12 lbs lighter, but the rear cam bearing being changed to fully grooved is obvious. Slantsix Dan may have more info on block changes...>>>
K1 offered a cast crank version of their long slant six rod, but it was discontinued early on. I purchased a set back in 2009 or so, and have those going into a 1987 last year cast crank slant block, in process of being built currently.
If you want a set of the K1 cast crank rods today, it would take some machining, but take a set of the steel crank K1 rods and trim the rod bearing saddle to the cast crank bearing width.
 
I have long thought that the lighter rotating assembly in the later engine might be worth the investment, more rpm's?.
BUT it seems that with hard to find performance parts and my build being directed to an ultimate supercharger addition, Im going to stay with my BH block, forged crank and bigger crank bearings.
It was nice watching these young men throw around the parts and talk Slant Six though. We need the PR.
 
those are the Horsepower TV clowns..... clueless in most cases. it wouldn't be that hard to do a little damn research before starting that project..
 
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