Slant six timing issues

Slant 6 Engines

  1. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    Sorry guys im sure this had been adressed somewhere on fabo but i havent been able to find any info. So i installed an msd 6al box along with a new distributor and coil and im trying to dial in the timing. Currently have #1 cylinder to fire at 0 TDC and the car fires up no issue. Problem is RPMs run through the roof maybe 20 seconds after start. I turned down the idle at the carb till screw wouldnt back out anymore and it still sits at 23000 rpms. I figure its becuase i havent adjusted my timing yet but issue is the only timing mark i have is 0 on the damper and my timing tab only has one line on it at 0 and no numbers marking anything else. What do i do.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2020
  2. valiantwagonguy

    valiantwagonguy Well-Known Member

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    Back it down to a point where you can get the engine to idle and still have plenty of screw to slow it down on the carb. Then advance the timing to the point where it starts to ping and back it down to the point where that stops .You want to run as much advance as you can and not have pre ignition pinging. You may also be off a tooth so re check that the dist is pointing at or just a hair before #1 wire at TDC The early slants like the 65's call for 5 before TDC I usually don't pay too much attention to the numbers.I do it to the max advance the engine will run good at because that's really where the engine wants to be.
     
  3. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    When you say advance the timing you mean turn the distributor clockwise or counter? Sorry im new at this
     
  4. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Well-Known Member

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    What year/ model vehicle/engine? Any other mods?
    Exactly what distributor did you use? Is the vac advance hooked up?
     
  5. halifaxhops

    halifaxhops It's going to get stupid around here! FABO Gold Member

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    Almost sounds like a broken advance spring?????
     
  6. 383Scampman

    383Scampman Well-Known Member

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    FYI : To advance timing, rotate distributor opposite the rotation of the dizzy . Retard , same direction . Also, I was under the impression /6 had more than one marks on the balancer ?
     
  7. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    I agree. The OP has something mechanical causing the RPM to surge. Time to pull the distributor and take a look.
     
  8. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    Its 1970 plymouth valiant has long aussie ram intake manifold, 4bbl QFT carb, msd6al box with blaster coil. distributor was new out of box. Vaccum advance was hooked up when starting but ive made no adjustments with it hooked to the carb. NEW DISTRIBUTOR FOR CHRYSLER DODGE PLYMOUTH 1973-1987 225CID 3.7 STRAIGHT 6-CYL | eBay
     
  9. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    What kind of timing light are you using? Some lights are not compatible with MSD ignition.
     
  10. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    Was unable to find any other marks other than the one. i had to mark it at TDC because the factory mark was off by about an inch.
     
  11. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    Sounds possible that the inertia ring has slipped. Have you verified TDC with a piston stop and checked the mark?
     
  12. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    Havent used a light yet. Only mark on the damper is the one i made for TDC and theres only one mark on the timing tab at zero so i didnt figure it would do me any good to try to time it with a light seeing as ive got no other points of reference.
     
  13. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    Thats exactly how i got it zeroed in to start it up after install of the msd and new distributor.
     
  14. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    And the mark was off an inch then?
     
  15. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    Yeah the original mark was off more or less. Definitely over half an inch but i hadnt tried measuring.
     
  16. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    Was it off because of where it ended up with the piston stop, or did you turn it back to zero? It's gonna be off using the piston stop because you cannot get the mark to line up with the piston stop in.
     
  17. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    Split the difference between rotating it one way and rotating it the other to find true TDC. After marking it on the damper is when i found the old mark was off.
     
  18. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod Weenie idiot loser. FABO Gold Member

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    Then I think you have verified the inertia ring has slipped. That's likely the whole problem right there.
     
  19. Valiantknight

    Valiantknight Active Member

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    I was gonna head out in abit to go play with the mixture screws to see if i could get the engine to slow down abit on startup. Didnt think a slipped ring can cause rpm to surge that badly ill look into getting a new one.
     
  20. Charrlie_S

    Charrlie_S Well-Known Member

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    That distributor is a genuine Chinese knockoff, and is suspect.
    Also make sure the carb secondaries, are not cracked open. Make sure he throttle linkage in not holding the carb slightly open.
     
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    • Hyper_pak

      Hyper_pak Old School Chrysler Fan

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      Not related exactly to your problem, BUT, if the ring has slipped you need to check it real good. If it comes off because the rubber is shot you could have a real problem. I had a couple rebuilt by a company out west for a few bucks each. They just need a good core. Message me if you want the company address.
       
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      • Valiantknight

        Valiantknight Active Member

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        I still have the original. The only reason i repaced it was becuase the cam on the old one was worn so the reluctor wouldnt pick up the trigger signal, the points were also burned in the cap, and the plasic gear was worn. Should i just toss the new electronics into the old distributor? Also i noticed the gear on the new one was metal but seened to be identical in size and shape to the plastic one.
         
      • Valiantknight

        Valiantknight Active Member

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        Is it more cost effective than getting a new one? Im located in southern California and its looking like 190 ~ 200 new. Might hit a pick n pull to see what i can find.
         
      • Valiantknight

        Valiantknight Active Member

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        So update. I tossed in the old distributor and played with the fuel mixture on the metering block and got it to idle somewhat normally. I think evryones suspisions about the new distributor was right. The vaccum advance may have been junk so i just snagged the cap/rotor and new seals off it. Im keeping it for parts. Issue im having now is the exaust will pop randomly at idle but not during accelerarion any ideas guys?. Also have yet to test drive it. Worried im gonna get stuck on the side of the road so im waiting for my buddy with tow straps to be off work lol
         
      • SIX225

        SIX225 Well-Known Member

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        Might want to take a look at the cap and rotor that came with that distributor. I grabbed what I think is a new/rebuilt /6 Chinese distributors at the junk yard the other day and the cap that was on it looked really poorly made.
         
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