Slow build 71 Scamp 440

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Given the amount of work you're about to input here, probably a better place-I'll be watching!

:happy1:
 
Ok the story. I bought a 1971 Plymouth Scamp down in New York City, Staten Island. I pick up the car first week in May. Very Excited! :blob: In preparation I have been buying up parts and supplies where ever I could. Some of you may have been in contact with me for various parts and giving me advice. I became a Gold Member soon after joining this forum after seeing how valuable the the info as well as how well the members help one another. There are a couple of fire starters here but for the most part I had nothing but great encounters so far.
What started all this mess was an ad on Kijiji with a white Scamp for sale and it was a beauty but it was sold from under my nose. No fault of mine but none the less I was hooked after talking to the seller. He is a solid Mopar guy and made me want a Scamp even more. Then my search began and it was this video [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXD-bMxY6qM"]1972 Plymouth Valiant Scamp #0047 Gateway Classic Cars - Indianapolis - YouTube[/ame] that fianlly cemented my wanting to get into an A body Big Block car. A Scamp from Gateway Classics with a 440 and wild green paint job. One of the members on this here forum beat me out on the purchase. Seeing how I couldn't have that car I decided I better build my own. So here I am! I seen this car on e-bay and it was getting no hits. So I waited for the auction to end and made contact. Went and seen the vehicle and bought it.

In the mean time I bought a 440/727 ( 1978 ) from ad on on Kijiji. $200.00 Couldn't go wrong I figured. So it was delivered and I began to tear it down.
I was not impressed at what I found. See my link at the beginning of the thread. Rust water coolant oil. It was a basket case. But some members told me to relax and not to worry about it.
So today the block went to the Spa........ The machine shop owner told me he would get back to me in a few days with the results. barring a crack it will be good to go along with the rusty LY rods I dropped off. Great news!
Other purchases made were original GTX Scoops, Grill, Aluminum water pump and housing, DC Big Block K-Frame, M1 single plane intake among other little odds and ends.
Very excited to do this build and this is all new to me. I'm a Ford guy originally and have owned 4 Mustangs, 1968,1974,1986,1990. But that's all behind me now. Also looking forward to MOPARFEST this summer.

Still looking for more parts and advice. You may be hearing from me.
Later
 

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The goal over 500hp

Engine Data:
Casting Number: 4066630-440-3
8T440 E ? 20 Maltese Cross (? unknown number before the 20)
Cast Crank

Being told by my machinist that we will most likely be .30 over and my goal of 500hp is very doable with the outcome to exceed that most likely.:cheers:
 
I'll preface this statement with a disclaimer that this is merely my opinion:

Those pistons above would definitely work, and what's not to like? they're forged-and I'm pretty sure a modern version of the 6 pack pistons...

But I would probably pony up a little and use something like this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pbp-12498-030/overview/make/dodge

They're only 730g without the pin...that's about the same weight as stock 340 forgings in the 68-71 HP engines. Reducing weight in the recip assembly is a good thing :thumblef:

In regards to the static CR, Assuming blueprint deck height (10.725"), the speed pro pistons come in at .021" in the hole. Those pistons with an open chamber head of about 88cc, .040"x4.4" head gaskets, 7cc valve reliefs, + 030" over, will yield closer to 9.3:1. If you drop the chamber volume down to 82cc (flat face valves, milled) and use a shim gasket, you'll achieve 10:1+...

The Probe slugs are roughly the same depth-(2.065" vs 2.061") and only 2 valve reliefs. Of course you can have your machinist shave the decks to zero the pistons up in the block and even with a fat fel-pro permatorque gasket, and the open chambers, would yield you about 9.5:1. Quench is of no concern/use in this app if you use your stock heads due to the rather deep chamber relief.

...no matter, even a 9:1 440 will still belt out 500hp with mild upgrades, and should easily drink low test fuel...and will create other problems for you...namely traction and worn downwind parts.
 
I like worn downwind parts ;-) we'll talk once this block gets mag'd. One thing I'll be looking for are aluminum heads. Thats a given. We're shooting for .30 and hopefully I get good news from the Spa on Monday ;-)

This is going to be a fun build. It's also progressing a little faster than I thought.

Shooting for May 1-ish pickup of the Scamp from NYC and maybe a little sight seeing then drive her across the border the following Monday. Should be back in Barrie Ont by Tuesday. Hoping all goes well at the border and no breakdowns. Knocking on wood.

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Oh yeah. I keep forgetting the open chambers are REALLY open. I used a set of the old 383 heads, found info on the casting number online saying they are 73.5cc. I think you can get eddys with 78cc, if memory serves, Summit said with 78cc I would end up with about 10.29:1, give or take, depending on the gasket and milling. If you want to spend the extra bucks on those the light weight would probably give you a good gain.
 
Even the old 516 close chambered heads still usually measure out closer to 80-82cc if they use stock valves and haven't been shaved.

Edelbrock makes two versions (E-Street, and RPM) with a 75cc chamber-they also make an 84cc and 88cc version (unless Hughes is selling the RPM misstated as 75cc...Summit says they're 84cc). You're correct, that if you bolt on a set of 75cc (trued), they would yield over 10:1 even with an .050"x4.5" gasket and the assumed piston deck clearance of 0.021".

All the above being said, if I were to go to the expense of buying closed chamber aluminum heads, I'd deck the block where the pistons were zeroed and let the quench work for me with about an .040-.045" gasket
 
I like worn downwind parts :wink:
Click to expand...

Beware what you wish-lol! I suspect that since that car is a \6, it's equipped with a 7.25" rear...even a smogged worn out 440 could do a number on it.

If you're actually looking to get aluminum heads, do plenty of research...
 
Headers tti 1 7/8 collector 3 for A-body

Guys. Need your help. Talking to a guy that has these for sale. No part number and he bought them in 2002. He wants 400.00 cad cash. I can't find info on them anywhere. Anyone recognize them. Good for 500-550hp? Little rust.
Good price?

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Something to consider not sure of your budget. There are some great alum heads. But you can get to your goal with iron heads. Lots of guys jumping ship to alum and leaving behind good irons some even ported. You got a solid car looks good. On the cheap I bought some of those $100 sets of rods on ebay. I had my machinist check them and for what I was doing he thought they would work just fine.
 
1 7/8" primaries should be plenty for your horsepower goals. The TTIs headers are stainless. They should hold up for a long time.
 
They do look decent. Just wanted to pick all your brains to see if they looked A-body-ish. With no part number I'm unsure. But I think I'll go for it considering the price. The seller saus he has the same set on his Duster and a 400 seem like a deal. Any other input?

I do have a set of 452 heads. So we'll see how it goes.

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Pan's in. Hound approved. Looking at a 8 3/4 rear for 200.00 buck. Wow. Great deal. Needs new perches. Get to weld!!!

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The headers ought to serve you well for a 440-although the collectors do look a little long for A body headers, perhaps they're a different part number. That pan looks to be in very nice shape-like it's been blasted and repainted. Look like some nice finds.
 
Hi Skeeter , nice car that you bought , very clean and a good looking /6 in there (if you are thinking about selling parts off that 6 pm ) I will be watching your post looks like a great start to a great build .
 
I'll keep you posted on the parts if I should dispose of them. Week away from flying down and picking her up. Can't wait. Will be posting all the way home with my encounters. Will also post any customs issues.

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Yep, I agree, 1 3/4" should get you what you want, 400 bucks is a good buy if they are correct for the A body. I have never seen the correct TTI headers, so I can't speak to the fitment, but they look to me suspiciously like B/C/E body headers. I'm actually thinking of picking up a pair of the cheap Summit brand that look like that (they're only $135 retail) to see if I can fit them to the same swap - '73 Swinger, '78 440. I have seen answers about the B body headers both ways, so I'm thinking about trying it for myself unless someone can give me a difinitive "I have done it and it does/doesn't work" answer about the cheap ones.

Anyone wanna buy some cheap Summit brand B body headers from me if they don't work???
 
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