So you want 2 go Big block...Read this first!

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mrtires24

mrtires24

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I see on other forums people saying that they want to go big block. and befor I did my car, I didn't have a clue what expenses are involved with a swap like this. I thought it would be good for people to look on a forum and see what other people say the costs are for installing a big block in an A body. Prices around north america are different, so there will be some disagreaments. and please try and do the pricing for average prices...not good deals, Or what you can get it for....think for the average Joe

Here is My break down of big block expences....For BC canada. I know the USA will be cheaper.

$500-$2000 for big block engine ( $500 for a barely running stock 2 brl $2000 for a rebuilt with 4 brl,and other goodies) Your not guna want a 2 brl intake on it anyways, so even a stock motor and a purchase of a 4 brl intack and carb to bolt on will still cost around $1000
$180 for schumacker motor mounts
$200 for headers, or exhaust manifolds
$230 for 3 inch exhaust and muflers
$350 for auto tranny and drive shaft shortening
$1700-$2500 for big block bell housing, A body tranny, Clutch, Clutch linkage, and shifter, and shifter linkage
$300 for aluminum rad
$500 for Disc brake conversion
$1000 for 8 3/4 rear end
$500 for nickel and dimeing stuff ( filters, hoses, oil, spark pugs/wires, other fluids etc etc)

and I am sure I am missing some stuff.

If you do it with a $1000 engine ( including carb and 4 brl) and an auto trans, your total would be around $4260

and if you go with the same engine but 4 spd, your total would be $5610-$6410

Sure you can not upgrade your brakes, but with the added weight of the big block, I wouldn't recomend it. and you can also ditch the diff, but your stock 7 1/4 diff will bust, and then your car won't go anywhere anymore

Prob another $500 of stuff I forgot. Oh, and you will also need a proper oil pan for another $50-$100, and possibly T bars, though I have heard that /6 bars are ok, also need frame conectors, and you might have problems with your stearing linkage. so you may have to buy new idler and pitman arms...and...and...

AUto with $1000 engine = $4760
4 spd with $1000 engine = $6110-$6910

Now the good news... this isn't what I paid. I was a couple grand less than the $6910 price. I got lots of deals at my Parts store. and alot of the parts came with my car when I bought it. New parts, just not installed yet. I am also going to have to rebuild my tranny this winter cause I bought a used one. if you are buying used...you get what you payed for.

So if you think you have a relativly good grasp on the expenses of a big block instalation on an A body. Type your list down...including prices, and give a total. That way people that are thinking of doing it, can look and see what they have, what they need to buy, and roughly how much is it going to cost.

Phil

PS. if you can afford it...I recomend doing it. :burnout:
 
Good info!
My only differing opinion was cost on headers. Conversion headers are generally in the 500.00 range, and A body specific manifolds are right there too. Some B body or E body headers can be made to work, or Fenderwell, but the are up there too.

Great Honest breakdown.
 
It's about the same cost to swap in a small block where a slant six was originally... ask me how I know! ;)

Your exhaust quote seems really low to me. When I had the full 2 1/2 duals custom bent and installed for the 360 in my car, the bill went to $840 including the mufflers (cash, no bill). All the other quotes I got were closer to $1K to do the job.
 
DemonDave said:
It's about the same cost to swap in a small block where a slant six was originally... ask me how I know! ;)

Your exhaust quote seems really low to me. When I had the full 2 1/2 duals custom bent and installed for the 360 in my car, the bill went to $840 including the mufflers (cash, no bill). All the other quotes I got were closer to $1K to do the job.
Click to expand...


I 2nd that comment, I paid about $1000 for the setup on my truck
 
Backtobasics said:
Good info!
My only differing opinion was cost on headers. Conversion headers are generally in the 500.00 range, and A body specific manifolds are right there too. Some B body or E body headers can be made to work, or Fenderwell, but the are up there too.

Great Honest breakdown.
Click to expand...

I agree. My headers cam with my car, and they were chrome ones, so I know they would have been up there too. But I know that they are B/E body headers= cheaper. But that is a good point. SOme BB headers are $1000. I figured you could get a Hooker header for B/E for around $200. I Could be wrong
 
Some have had luck with B or E body headers, some don't.
Some have luck with HP big block manifolds from other cars, some don't.
Exhaust seems cheap for you up north, but Scummit Racing, sells a 3" dual header system with mufflers for 249.95 so it is a realistic number for those of us in the states.

Either way it is the most honest post for BB conversions I have seen.
 
DemonDave said:
It's about the same cost to swap in a small block where a slant six was originally... ask me how I know! ;)

Your exhaust quote seems really low to me. When I had the full 2 1/2 duals custom bent and installed for the 360 in my car, the bill went to $840 including the mufflers (cash, no bill). All the other quotes I got were closer to $1K to do the job.
Click to expand...

Rob said:
I 2nd that comment, I paid about $1000 for the setup on my truck
Click to expand...

As far as exhaust goes...anyone can get this. check it out
2.5 inch from headers back under $200
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...922451+4294925081+4294908078+115&autoview=sku
and 3 inch with mufflers from jegs or summit is about $250

I have the 3 inch, and my buddie has the 2.5. they both sound good to us. More than happe with these kits. fits in swingers no prob, have to cut for demons, dart sports, and dusters.

Keep in mind...these costs are for A body big block instalations. Not trucks, or other cars.

Demon Dave, I call your bluff. I'm asking how..if you take intoconsideration you can do a /6 to small block swap for this much

Good running 360 for $500
auto Tranny for $200
schumacker Motor mounts for $180
$200 for nickel and dime stuff ( oil, gaskets, spark plugs, etc etc)
$200 for exhaust

total of $1280. You can't do all that with a big block....trust me. Look at my thread if you want.


But I'll call you on it...I am asking how

Phil

PS. I think the Auto tranny price I have up there is low. I can't find a big block tranny in good condition locally for under $500
 
Backtobasics said:
Some have had luck with B or E body headers, some don't.
Some have luck with HP big block manifolds from other cars, some don't.
Exhaust seems cheap for you up north, but Scummit Racing, sells a 3" dual header system with mufflers for 249.95 so it is a realistic number for those of us in the states.

Either way it is the most honest post for BB conversions I have seen.
Click to expand...

You can be a canadian and buy that kit... Thats what I did! there is nothing in BC canada that can even come close in comparison. I recomend the kit :)

Mandrel bent to boot!
 
Probably realistic, but my first big block swap (440, 18-spline four speed, console, Hurst shifter, Barracuda dash with 150mph and tach, 15" rallye wheels, 3.23SG 8-3/4 with 11x3 rear drums, big bolt discs, factory big block t-bars and sway bar - I'm probably forgetting some subtleties and small parts).

The total, including the FREE 67 Dart GT body (rust free, too) was around $2,600. I got some SMOKIN' deals, though. $150 for a low mile ORIGINAL 1970 440. $135 total in the 18-spline four speed.

I'm in the middle of the same swap on my 67 Barracuda convertible. Here's the prices:
1969 440 - free (well I stored the truck for a year and a half for free, too)
727 - kit and convertor will cost around $100. I've had the trans for a long time and it was basically free.
3.23SG 8-3/4 - $100 for the housing, $50 for the brakes, third member came out of a car I parted.
Big bolt discs - came with the car, installed.
Big block sway bar (yes, we have two factory bars) - $40
150mph speedo/tach - $25
15x6.5 steelies/tires - wheels came from the same parted car as the third member, current set of tires were on my son's Daytona
K-member and mounts - $40 if you include the welding wire (this may go up a little if I buy new inserts for the spool mounts)
Exhaust manifolds - kind of hard to figure a price because I have bought so many, but figure $75 for the pair.
So, I'm at $430 and I don't have my cam yet ($210), driveshaft done ($70), exhaust system (I've got some parts, but figure another $150), and torsion bars ($200).

$1060 (give or take a little) and it will be running/driving. I will also be painting the car and doing the interior and top. I should be done and cruise-ready for around $3000 on top of what I paid for the car (Jim, thanks for the good deal).

If things go well this year I should have it ready to cruise by next spring.
 
Jim Lusk said:
Probably realistic, but my first big block swap (440, 18-spline four speed, console, Hurst shifter, Barracuda dash with 150mph and tach, 15" rallye wheels, 3.23SG 8-3/4 with 11x3 rear drums, big bolt discs, factory big block t-bars and sway bar - I'm probably forgetting some subtleties and small parts).

The total, including the FREE 67 Dart GT body (rust free, too) was around $2,600. I got some SMOKIN' deals, though. $150 for a low mile ORIGINAL 1970 440. $135 total in the 18-spline four speed.

I'm in the middle of the same swap on my 67 Barracuda convertible. Here's the prices:
1969 440 - free (well I stored the truck for a year and a half for free, too)
727 - kit and convertor will cost around $100. I've had the trans for a long time and it was basically free.
3.23SG 8-3/4 - $100 for the housing, $50 for the brakes, third member came out of a car I parted.
Big bolt discs - came with the car, installed.
Big block sway bar (yes, we have two factory bars) - $40
150mph speedo/tach - $25
15x6.5 steelies/tires - wheels came from the same parted car as the third member, current set of tires were on my son's Daytona
K-member and mounts - $40 if you include the welding wire (this may go up a little if I buy new inserts for the spool mounts)
Exhaust manifolds - kind of hard to figure a price because I have bought so many, but figure $75 for the pair.
So, I'm at $430 and I don't have my cam yet ($210), driveshaft done ($70), exhaust system (I've got some parts, but figure another $150), and torsion bars ($200).

$1060 (give or take a little) and it will be running/driving. I will also be painting the car and doing the interior and top. I should be done and cruise-ready for around $3000 on top of what I paid for the car (Jim, thanks for the good deal).

If things go well this year I should have it ready to cruise by next spring.
Click to expand...

That is definatly not doable by the average person. You got some screaming deals on there. I wanted a post that would be acurate to the average person wanting to do the build from scratch. Considering you are doing alot of the welding here and there, you are saving alot too. considering a welder is about $1000, and then you have to know how to build it. Your costs are alot more than you are saying. Not everyone can get a parts car with an 8 3/4 rear, and other goodies, never mind have the room for a parts car. Though you have proved that this can be done for CHeap...not everyone can get that many FREE parts.

Mybe we should have another forum saying..
got a big block? what ya in it for
:)
Heck I am into my hole car for about $6500 for EVERYTHING. But not everyone can get the "good deals" there is NO WAY, that I could duplicate your build for that price. Good for you Jim you deserve =D>

Phil

PS where do you get a 150 mile speedo, and tac for $25?!?!?!
 
The welder was $200 and I bought it for a project that made us more in labor than the welder cost (and I should have charged more), so that's not a factor. Also, I am much more of a metal melter than a pro welder. I am getting better, though. You are absolutely correct that deals like I got were rare. I also started building Direct Connection k-members before the was an internet or Schumacher's. If you were going to build something, you had to build it. I'm also cheap.

The speedo and tach were an interesting deal. It would have been nine years ago. I got a call from a guy who I had never met asking if I had any Barracuda parts. I didn't have anything he needed, but then we got to talking about what he had. He's got a 68 Formula S coupe drag car that he had pulled the factory guages out of. So I asked what he wanted for the speedo and if he had a tach. He said $25 for the speedo and that he didn't have a tach. We were on the way to buy my son's Dart convertible when we stopped by Larry's place. He handed me a rough looking cluster and it DID have a tach. I mentioned it and how much more. He said $25 for all of it......

There's a great story behind every unique part in my son's Dart. The build can be traced back to the 69 Super Bee hood with scoops I got out of Turner's Auto Wrecking here in Fresno for the whopping sum of $20 in 1981. I would have given him $100 for it. And, anybody who's ever shopped at Turner's knows that Jerry NEVER gives a smokin' deal.
 
One more thing. It's not just the big block cars that we don't have much money in. Total, including major repairs, paint, and interior (which all need to be done again) over 25 years of owning our 68 340 GTS convertible is around $6,000. That includes the purchase price in 1983.

I'm also not really letting on how much I paid for my Barracuda, but Jim gave me a great deal, to which I am grateful because I could not have afforded it otherwise.
 
Jim Lusk said:
The welder was $200 and I bought it for a project that made us more in labor than the welder cost (and I should have charged more), so that's not a factor. Also, I am much more of a metal melter than a pro welder. I am getting better, though. You are absolutely correct that deals like I got were rare. I also started building Direct Connection k-members before the was an internet or Schumacher's. If you were going to build something, you had to build it. I'm also cheap.

The speedo and tach were an interesting deal. It would have been nine years ago. I got a call from a guy who I had never met asking if I had any Barracuda parts. I didn't have anything he needed, but then we got to talking about what he had. He's got a 68 Formula S coupe drag car that he had pulled the factory guages out of. So I asked what he wanted for the speedo and if he had a tach. He said $25 for the speedo and that he didn't have a tach. We were on the way to buy my son's Dart convertible when we stopped by Larry's place. He handed me a rough looking cluster and it DID have a tach. I mentioned it and how much more. He said $25 for all of it......

There's a great story behind every unique part in my son's Dart. The build can be traced back to the 69 Super Bee hood with scoops I got out of Turner's Auto Wrecking here in Fresno for the whopping sum of $20 in 1981. I would have given him $100 for it. And, anybody who's ever shopped at Turner's knows that Jerry NEVER gives a smokin' deal.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that, but didn't want to say. Nothing wrong with being Cheap..everyones got a budget :) as far as the welder part goes...I was refering that it would cost other people that much for a good one. Sure you might be able to find a good used one if you wait. When did you buy the welder? 1973? ;)

Jim Lusk said:
One more thing. It's not just the big block cars that we don't have much money in. Total, including major repairs, paint, and interior (which all need to be done again) over 25 years of owning our 68 340 GTS convertible is around $6,000. That includes the purchase price in 1983.

I'm also not really letting on how much I paid for my Barracuda, but Jim gave me a great deal, to which I am grateful because I could not have afforded it otherwise.
Click to expand...

I guess I am more thinking about prices in todays market...not 20 sum years ago. So jim, I have heard good things about you. What do you think the average Joe could do it for. am I pretty much in the ball park with my original post. and try and keep pricing within the last 5 years at least :)

Phil
 
mrtires24 said:
Demon Dave, I call your bluff. I'm asking how..if you take intoconsideration you can do a /6 to small block swap for this much

Good running 360 for $500
auto Tranny for $200
schumacker Motor mounts for $180
$200 for nickel and dime stuff ( oil, gaskets, spark plugs, etc etc)
$200 for exhaust

total of $1280. You can't do all that with a big block....trust me. Look at my thread if you want.


But I'll call you on it...I am asking how
Click to expand...
well, i just got done puting a 360 into a slant six 74 duster. I did not put a 500 dollar junkyard 360 into it, i wouldnt waste my time. i built a nice powerful 360 with plenty of go fast goodies. But as far as everything else goes.....
300 for aluminum radiator(slant six has smaller radiator)
180 for conversion mounts
100 for aluminum bellhousing
400 for centerforce clutch kit
kept the 3 speed manual trans wich will break soon so figure 500 for rebuilt abody trans
250 headers
still have 7.25 rear but that will go soon so figure 900 for built 8.75 rear with 391 gears
250 upgrade to disks (9 inch drums wont stop a rev happy small block)
120 new shock
500 misc

you can do the math, this is not including the cost of the engine wich is well over the 3k mark
 
thanson_mopar said:
well, i just got done puting a 360 into a slant six 74 duster. I did not put a 500 dollar junkyard 360 into it, i wouldnt waste my time. i built a nice powerful 360 with plenty of go fast goodies. But as far as everything else goes.....
300 for aluminum radiator(slant six has smaller radiator)
180 for conversion mounts
100 for aluminum bellhousing
400 for centerforce clutch kit
kept the 3 speed manual trans wich will break soon so figure 500 for rebuilt abody trans
250 headers
still have 7.25 rear but that will go soon so figure 900 for built 8.75 rear with 391 gears
250 upgrade to disks (9 inch drums wont stop a rev happy small block)
120 new shock
500 misc

you can do the math, this is not including the cost of the engine wich is well over the 3k mark
Click to expand...

Your parts you put in are mor expensive than normal. My original post is for new...reasonably priced parts. I big block built like your 360 would prob cost $2000-$4000 to build in comparison. You didn't need to go aluminum rad with a small block..but for the long run, a good choice. and I think you spent too much for your centerforce clutch...I didn't spend that much, and thats what I bought for my car. $250 for headers seams high...What kind did you get? even still $3000 for a small block instalation...compared to $5k-$7k big block (if you had to buy everything)

I didn't make this post to try and have a competition with what cost more, or if it is the same, Or what. I wanted it to be a post that people could look at if they wanted to do a big block swap.
 
AdamR said:
everything. The car, the motor and trans. It even ran 12s.

http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1968_dodge_dart_project_car/index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1968_dodge_dart_engine_upgrades/index.html

http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1968_dodge_dart_wheels/index.html
Click to expand...

When was this article? seams out of touch once I read "We almost bought a four-speed 383 Dart less motor for $1000!" and it also warns you about the crude hack job used on this car. a little out of touch for this day and age. I guess kinda cool if you want a car that will get condemed :)

But yet again, you proved me wrong by saying it can be done for $2000.

Yeah right.

Phil
 
Rob said:
I 2nd that comment, I paid about $1000 for the setup on my truck
Click to expand...
Quote:
Originally Posted by DemonDave
It's about the same cost to swap in a small block where a slant six was originally... ask me how I know!

Your exhaust quote seems really low to me. When I had the full 2 1/2 duals custom bent and installed for the 360 in my car, the bill went to $840 including the mufflers (cash, no bill). All the other quotes I got were closer to $1K to do the job.
Click to expand...

My /6 - 318 exhaust was; Hooker headers and exhaust from jegs.
Headers were at the time $159 and the exhaust pipes were $200. Mufflerless systems were/are at Jegs and then the muffler price of your choice has to be added in.

A quick search at Summit racing turns up Hooker headers for a 400 A body @ $510 for fenderwells, painted, $760 coated, then add $195 for the 2-1/2 or $249 for the 3 inch kit, minus $20 for the mufflerless 3 inch kit. ($229)

Coated header, mufflerless system (There mandrel bent, clamps surplied or you weld) and mufflers are what you pay. But the total without mufflers would be;

760 + 230 = 1100 Save $250 with painted headers (?) = $850 or $20 more with there mufflers. $870

Another 2 hundred or less for mufflers?
 
I paid about *I think it was * $200 for an OE Duster disk set. Just need pads and brake lines. I think it was a good deal over the price tag of new aftermarket larger disks. Of course the stopping power wold be very welcome for a big block or any high powered car, but mine is closer to stock.
 
Hey Guys,I recently picked up my old 1964 dart gt. 2dr.v/8,4spd. car but it is just a sad roller as I write this...But I plan on putting it back on the road...
 
mrmopar1966 said:
Hey Anyone know if mid 70's truck B.B. Bell housing fit in an a-body???
Click to expand...

alot of Bells will work. Depends on the headers, if you are using dodge mechanical clutch linkage or going hydraulic, and if you are using motor mounts or motor plate ( elephant ears)

If you are using Big block A body mechanical lincage. only these casting numbers will work Works on 10.5" bellhousings with casting numbers 2468370, 2468372 and 2892513

I orig bought a truck bell, but had to sell it cause it wouldn't work. Hit the headers too.

Phil
 
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