Solid lifter cam.

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americal

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Anyone using a solid lifter cam in 340 stroker? My 418 has some bad hydraulic lifters.I am thinking about a cam change and thinking I may go solids since I already have adjustable rocker arms. I know I will need new pushrods. Are they hard to adjust and do they keep there adjustment?
 
I run solid cam in my 414 , they stay adj well and it's not very hard to run valve lash.
 
americal said:
Anyone using a solid lifter cam in 340 stroker? My 418 has some bad hydraulic lifters.I am thinking about a cam change and thinking I may go solids since I already have adjustable rocker arms. I know I will need new pushrods. Are they hard to adjust and do they keep there adjustment?
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If your geometry is correct they are simple to maintain. Too bad the engine is together. If it wasn't I'd tell you to tube the passenger lifter gallery and the and block off the oil to the drivers side. You don't need to do it, but it's nice to do.

Make sure you contact Mike at B3 racing engines and have him help you get the geometry correct. Your engine will thank you.
 
Good to hear about the adjustment. I didn't want to have to set them all the time, I know to have the correct geometry the pushrod length is important. What length pushrods do I need?
 
americal said:
Good to hear about the adjustment. I didn't want to have to set them all the time, I know to have the correct geometry the pushrod length is important. What length pushrods do I need?
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Pushrods are the last thing you buy.

Take some time and go to b3racingengines.com and read all of his tech pages very carefully. When you are ready, use his kit to correct your geometry and then measure and order your pushrods.

Mike is a damn nice guy and will help you on the phone as much as you need. Grab and pencil and paper to take notes. He is worthy of note taking.
 
How big of a cam (lift & duration)? The smaller it is, and the lower the RPM's that you run, the less you need geometry correction (unless it is reeeealy awful to start with). Lot's of engine run fine without it; the correction optimizes the lift and makes the valve accelerations truer to the cam profile, which can reduce valve float tendencies.

You can get an idea of how good or bad the present geometry is with roller rockers very easily. Look at the scrub pattern on the valve stem tips and see how wide it is. The best you could do will look like pix #3 in post #20 in this thread:
EQ heads, Chevy rockers and what studs?
 
I installed a Comp solid lifter cam in my 340 build. Mike at B3 couldn't have been nicer to deal with for the geometry correction, and I pestered him with questions ALOT. Give him a call, get his kit, you won't be sorry.
 
You can check the geometry with what you have - that wont change with lifters and pushrods. If the scrub pattern is good, you're good. Swap the parts and measure for the pushrods and order them up.
 
moper said:
You can check the geometry with what you have - that wont change with lifters and pushrods. If the scrub pattern is good, you're good. Swap the parts and measure for the pushrods and order them up.
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The scrub pattern most likely won't be correct because none of them are. I'd bet the OP would have to move the shafts up at minimum of .125 and then back away from the valve and it does affect pushrod length.

Buy pushrods last.

FWIW I had to raise my shafts almost .250 and back so far I had to oval the holes in the shaft.
 
moper said:
Your crystal ball is no better than mine...lol. I said check for a reason.
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No reason for a crystal ball. The OP says he has an adjustable valve train. The geometry won't be right. It's called years of watching people do it wrong and call it good. Mikes system is simple, inexpensive and it works. No reason for Chrysler guys to not fix their piss poor geometry now.
 
Running a Cam Motion solid roller in my 416 Barracuda. Tight lash .009 intake and exhaust. 246/250 @.50 duration .561/.541 lift. 110 C/L I installed it at 104. I like it.
 
My 388 SBM dirt track motor has been run with a solid flat tappet and stick adj. lifters without any issues.
 
Running a 340 built in the early 80s. .528" mechanical cam, stock adjustable 273 rockers, double springs. 4 speed car with 4.88 gear. Has countless 1/4 mile passes and lots of hard street battles. Think we've had the valve covers off 3 times!!!! Good adjusters and lock nuts on rockers, itwillhold the lash just fine
 
Dartish said:
Running a 340 built in the early 80s. .528" mechanical cam, stock adjustable 273 rockers, double springs. 4 speed car with 4.88 gear. Has countless 1/4 mile passes and lots of hard street battles. Think we've had the valve covers off 3 times!!!! Good adjusters and lock nuts on rockers, itwillhold the lash just fine
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Great old combo.
 
It don't look like much, but was my first chance to do actual wrenching with my dad. Money was tight and he saved every penny he could, and didn't buy ANYTHING that didn't make power or make it last. Lottsa people don't realize how good those 340s run when built right in a light car with a big gear. Sounds absolutely vicious through open headers!!! Have had ZERO issues with the valvetrain other then the old crane retainers cracking. Luckily found those before it ate a valve at 7200 rpm
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Running a Cam Motion solid roller in my 416 Barracuda. Tight lash .009 intake and exhaust. 246/250 @.50 duration .561/.541 lift. 110 C/L I installed it at 104. I like it.
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I run a comp 274-S flat tappet with comp steel roller rockers in my 416. 236/242 @.50, .501”/.541” . Very streetable. About one notch down from the one above.
 
comp steel roller rockers
check your geometry
post a pic of your stem sweep
dollars to doughnuts your fulcrums are too low
you can get away with it with FT cam spring pressure but can be hazardous with roller spring pressure
it also messes with your over the nose valve action
 
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