Solid roller oil

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twayne24365

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going to drain the break in oil out of the motor, I’m gonna stick with 20w50 but what brand oils are you guys running on your rollers? I’ve always had flat tappers with brad penn
 
going to drain the break in oil out of the motor, I’m gonna stick with 20w50 but what brand oils are you guys running on your rollers? I’ve always had flat tappers with brad penn


Why 20w50? Your clearances that loose? I don't mind it if you are loose on clearance but even I Maryland if you drive only in the summer a 10w40 may be a bit better.

I only run 100% synthetic. The oil I used is about 22.00 a quart.
 
Clearances are .025 main and rods.

With 20/50 it’s 40 hot idle and 75 wot so I just figure that seems good so I’ll stay with the 20/50.

Plus I use it in the other car
 
Clearances are .025 main and rods.

With 20/50 it’s 40 hot idle and 75 wot so I just figure that seems good so I’ll stay with the 20/50.

Plus I use it in the other car


That sounds ok but I suspect your clearances are .0025 and the 20w50 should be fine.

If you want you could use a 5w50 synthetic but it needs to be a good one to run that much grade split.
 
I heard really good things about LAT oils, my machine shop QMP racing told me about it.
 
I heard really good things about LAT oils, my machine shop QMP racing told me about it.


LAT is a VERY good oil. It has the same issue as Torco and that is price point. Most guys won't pay for a quality oil. I just don't get it, but they won't.
 
True, when I heard what it did for Shilos on the dyno had me sold, with the leak he has in his block, water in the oil the engine still never got over heated doing pulls, and they make it for transmissions too. When I'm to that point, and since they are local I'll go down and buy both their trans fluid and break in oil, then their synthetic. $20 per quart is up their but hey why not.
 
True, when I heard what it did for Shilos on the dyno had me sold, with the leak he has in his block, water in the oil the engine still never got over heated doing pulls, and they make it for transmissions too. When I'm to that point, and since they are local I'll go down and buy both their trans fluid and break in oil, then their synthetic. $20 per quart is up their but hey why not.


I agree. You are making a spend now, save later decision. A quality oil can save your bacon and make power too.

I was getting 70-80 runs on a set of valve springs and switching to Torco I could get 125 or so. That's something overlooked.
 
I agree. You are making a spend now, save later decision. A quality oil can save your bacon and make power too.

I was getting 70-80 runs on a set of valve springs and switching to Torco I could get 125 or so. That's something overlooked.


Exactly, can't wait to be at that point but every bit helps and counts. Not sure on it but their website even says 6% more hp and torque from their oils.
 
Somebody clue me in. Way back with oil and solid rollers it was don't idle it for long or you might burn a roller. Splash oiling. Still work like that? Standard isky rollers.
 
Somebody clue me in. Way back with oil and solid rollers it was don't idle it for long or you might burn a roller. Splash oiling. Still work like that? Standard isky rollers.


IMO, it's that guys want to keep the idle too slow. Even with SFT cams I don't like to let the idle get below 950 at the slowest. My cam now will idle at 800 just fine but I have it ~ 1000 RPM for two reasons. One, it keeps the oil splashing around a bit more. And two, the slower the cam is turning, the slower the lifter tends to rotate.

With a roller is essentially the same deal. Except if the lifter rotates you're have a bad day. Some needle bearing lifters are pressure fed and all the bushing style rollers are pressure IIRC. The needles also don't like slow idles speeds, not only because the oil splash is less, but also the needles need to roller. At low idle speeds with relatively high spring loads, they tend to not roll. Once you flat spot a couple of needles it's about to end poorly

Went to a divisional way back in probably 1981ish. There was a Comp Eliminator guy pitted next to a guy named Jim Van Cleve. He and my dad knew each other so we were chit chatting. It was early and the car parked next to him was sitting there, grinding on the starter. Jim says "pay attention because that guy is going to kill a lifter today". I asked how he new and he said he was cranking on the starter like that to build oil pressure before the first cold start of the day he said that's a lifter killer and you are better off just firing it up than doing that.

So we watch to see what happens and sure enough, he never made it out of the water box and it spit up some lifters. So I spent an hour watching him and his wife pull and engine and put in his back up and then do the exact same thing.
 
Cool. Some brain cells say Van Cleve ran Fords.


They did run Fords. They owned (I think Jim still owns it) a Ford dealership in Morton Washington. I'll ask my dad next time I talk to him how he met the Van Cleve family but I suspect it was through Chet McFallo.

Another funny story about the Van Cleve Ford. We were at a race and Jim had the valve covers off. This was about the time the "big" valve springs came out. IIRC, Edelbrock had the first springs that were 300 on the seat at 2.00 installed height. I *THINK* this was around 1986 or so. We were killing valve train parts like nobody's business. I wanted to up the spring pressure and my dad didn't.

Anyway, Jim had the valve covers off and he had 3 different brands of rocker arms on his engine. My dad said is that what happens when you get too much valve spring pressure, you break rockers. Jim said no, that's what happens when you don't have enough spring pressure.

The next day I ordere a set of Addco springs with 300 pounds at 2.00 installed height. Stopped a big part of the valve train breakage.
 
YR...you probably know Jim Green the cammerman up there in Seattle. Nice guy !
He restored Jim Crooks old Cammer dragster... The Assasin .
 
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