Some paint questions for the guys who know paint

Mopar General Discussions

Im thinking plum purple paint,what color do you think would look good?

  1. Plum crazy purple pearl

    60.9%
  2. Black

    10.9%
  3. Yellow

    15.2%
  4. OR???

    13.0%
  1. Dusterdude72

    Dusterdude72 IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE

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    ok guys....sorry to sound stupid but I wanted to ask a couple of questions so I know FOR SURE what I want to know.....I have done some painting but I am not an expert or anything....My question is......I am going to be painting my 72 duster sometime soon(need to do some body work and what not first) but when I do,I plan on painting the entire exterior of the car,trunk interior,engine bay,dash and interior panels such as door.....possibly even the hole interior floor an all. My actual question is....how much paint do you think it would take to do what I have mentioned? I found the color I want (plum crazy pearl) I can get it for $90.00 a gallon for top coat and it mixs out 4to1 so I will actually have 5 quarts to work with....I wouldnt think it would take more then a gallon to do what I mentioned...what do you guys think?........question 2.......its a single stage top coat paint,im still debating on rather to run it only or if I should run clear...I like the luster of a clear coat but at the same time, I think single stage stays true to 1970s paint, what do you guys think...clear or no clear?. I am trying to stay cheap on paint but without the cheap look. going through summit racing I can get everything for my car for around $250.00,thats 1 gallon of paint,a quart of activator,a quart or reducer,a gallon of primer and a gallon of clear...or $200.00 minus the clear. hows that sound price wise to you guys?. anyways....in advance,thanks for you mopar guys and or gals help on my questions
     
  2. caferacerx

    caferacerx BAND MEMBER

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    also not an expert but the experts I know have always warned me away from using single stage because they said you can have trouble matching the finish if you get a run and have to touch up an area it doesnt blend very well and you wind up having to re spray the whole car there goes your savings thats not a problem with base coat clear coat plus base coat clear coat looks way nicer
     
  3. stroker_valiant

    stroker_valiant Well-Known Member

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    It's not the greatest pic, but my engine bay was done with a single stage and cleared over that. the guy that helped me with it said that setup would be more durable for an engine bay. Just the engine bay was one quart, and that was stretching it.

    DSC00591.JPG
     
  4. alleyoopmgv

    alleyoopmgv Well-Known Member

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    If your a beginner, I wouldn't suggest a single stage with metallic in it. Whatever it looks like, you have to live with it, because you cant buff single stage metallic paint jobs, you'll wreck it.

    Basecoat is easier to spray, you can fix a bad spot, wet sand it, and then spray on more base. The trick is to spray on the clear good. Start in places like under side of the deck lid, or the floors until you get the hang of it.

    When I paint a car, I usually go through about a gallon and a half for the entire car, but that's 5 coats of color and then 5 coats of clear.

    When I paint a car the paint products costs me any where from $700.00 to about $1500.00 depending on what color, single stage or base/clear etc.........

    I've been restoring and painting cars for 21 years, what i have always said is " anyone can paint a car, but what makes you a real good painter, is knowing what to do if you run into troubles".

    Here is a link to a good website, it's got a lot of good stuff on it.
    http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

    Good luck with the project, and keep us posted!

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  5. Dusterdude72

    Dusterdude72 IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE

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    I know how to paint,I was just saying I am no expert....I know alot of guys say to stay away from single stage because its hard to match in the event of a screw up.....but the hole point of a nice point job is to avoid screw ups.....if your painting in the right conditions and with the right equipment and you have the knowledge...then no reason it cant be pulled off....5 coats is a little more then I am talking about going....I was thinking more along the line of 3 coats on top of a grey prime.....should give me the right depth to the purple I am looking for. P.S....this brand of paint is summit and it is buffable single stage metallic.....its fine partical,not metal flake. I will probably end up going with the single stage purple and then adding the clear on top anyhow.....thanks to those of you who answered any of my questions
     
  6. Dusterdude72

    Dusterdude72 IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE

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    Is that yellow single stage? looks like it
     
  7. AdamR

    AdamR Big Member

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    If your spraying everything I would grab 2 gallons to be safe. Get a 5 gallon bucket and mix the 2 together before you start spraying.

    I used 1 gallon on my car and ran short, That was 3 coats on the exterior, 2 coats under the hood and 1 heavy coat in the doors and trunck. I knew I was going to run short and at $800 a gallon for the base I used I wasnt in a hurry to mix more, LOL
     
  8. 340john

    340john Well-Known Member

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    Getting 2 gallons and mixing them in a 5 gallon bucket is exactly what I do. no other way to gaurentee a perfect match.
     
  9. yellowdartdave

    yellowdartdave RIP 1-5-12 Legendary Member

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    Paint the car in Curious Yellow........... causes people to squint so bad they can't see any flaws!!
     
  10. daves66valiant

    daves66valiant 68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100

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    I'm a newbie and no expert but I'm almost to my second gallon already. I've only done the hood, deck lid and engine bay so far. I could be spraying too heavy but I have great coverage over black epoxy primer. The other gallon should get me through the fenders, doors and body with some left over for screw-ups and touch-ups.

    [​IMG]

    Goodluck with single-stage with pearl. I hear horror stories about it. That paint sounds really cheap. Hope you get good coverage and not too much transparency.

    Plum crazy is a great color
     
  11. Dusterdude72

    Dusterdude72 IN MOPAR MUSCLE MAGAZINE

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    what are you running for paint? whatever it is,looks like its laying down nice!.....I love the plum crazy purple....Im just a little concearned with running this specific paint in that color....you guys have brought up good points...all the while though....I do not have upwards of $1500.00 to throw down on a paint job!!!.....Im on a tight enough budget...even buying what I am debating on buying is a little pricey......anyone who has great knowledge of paint...please chime in lol....what are the pros and cons of what kinds of paint? I want to run single stage because its cheaper,easier and stays true to the 70's look of paint...( IMO ) and ohh ya...ITS CHEAPER LOL....I know alot of guys say you get what you pay for and in some areas that is true but alot of it depends on the painter....sure you can go spend $2,000.00 on super fancy paint but if the guy spraying it doesnt know what he is doing...it will look like a $200.00 job. I just want a nice smooth good covering paint job with some shine to it. Im not looking to enter it into a museum or anything lol. how about this.....you guys swing over to there website and give all the guidlines on there paint a look over and what not and then let me know what you think...... http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Paint/Brand/Summit/?keyword=paint ......Like I said, I am no expert here on paint and even when I did paint it was mostly motorcycles so I am use to using a quart or 2 to do the hole job lol ...all the help is appreciated guys and I thank you for taking the time out of your day to even bother
     
  12. andy l

    andy l Well-Known Member

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    if you want plum crazy and want a really deep looking finish I know this is more money but single stage the car sand it all down with 1200 and clear it after it's buffed it will deep the deepest looking color you've seen. Thats what I would do if I wanted to do single stage but I have just done base/clear when I did my dart it's alot easier!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  13. daves66valiant

    daves66valiant 68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100

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    I'm using PPG and SPI Universal clear. I think that Summit Racing paint is bottom of the barrel paint. I may even be Kirker brand paint that has been relabeled. Not the greatest stuff on the market and is probably not a high solids paint which is why its cheap. Poor coverage with darker metallics and you'll need twice what you think. Personally I would save my duckets and get a better quality paint. It will show the difference even if you are a pro painter. Try Transtar. They are priced good for a better quality paint.
     
  14. 74scamp360

    74scamp360 Junior Member

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    Super straight car, nice job!!
     
  15. Tincup

    Tincup Well-Known Member

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    I can relate to being on a tight budget, but everyone sees your paint job, in my opinion this is not the area to skimp. What makes even a cheap (material wise) paint job look good, is the preperation, take your time and do a good job on the body. If I were you I would use the single stage under the hood, in the trunk and in the door jambs, then use base / clear on the body. Good luck.
     
  16. alleyoopmgv

    alleyoopmgv Well-Known Member

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    That is all base/clear, and those picture's are before buffing.
     
  17. alleyoopmgv

    alleyoopmgv Well-Known Member

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    :scratch:
     
  18. hamesdart

    hamesdart Well-Known Member

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    yah i just ran into this today.
    my 69 dart im painting this week and i bought paint at a local store been around for years.
    im doing a candy red but without candy so i went with the new ford mustang candy red so its just a metalic but same shade and everything without the hassle of candys. red is very expensive and you need good coverage and a solid primer coat with no different shades.
    The paint i got was a bout $600 with everything i needed including a little bondo,tach cloths and some surface prep cleaner. it was same quality as ppg. i got a gallon paint and gallon base and gallon clear.
    Im not painting the hood though so I think ill be ok.
    If you just dont do too heavy in one area then you shouldnt use too too much paint like do one good coat all around and like under the hood i would leave for the second coat last so you know you have enough for a second coat on the body.... and so on. I think most paint stores are pretty good like mine were you can tell them a car and what exactly your going to spray and they get close to how much you need.
    and with mine i had to get activators and catalycers too so i only have 4 hours to spray after i mix so i can just mix up all at once and hope i spray through it all before it goes bad.
     
  19. Blownfish

    Blownfish Well-Known Member

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    $90 per gallon sounds awful cheap, the primer I use cost more than that. I would be leery of it's quality and how long it will last. The old saying of you get what you pay for comes in mind. I would use it if I was throwing together a quick driver but not a car that I care about or investing a lot of time and money into.

    I also agree with the others in that this is not the time or area to take short cuts, you will regret it down the road when you have to start over.

    If you are spraying a metallic paint, base/clear is the way to go. Single stage urethane is fine for a solid color because you can color sand and buff it with out issues. If you are on a budget then you can spray the trunk and engine compartment with single stage then spray the body with base/clear.

    The single stage paint you're thinking of buying may be able to be color sanded and buffed but that is the paint, most paint can be color sanded and buffed once it is cured, you will still get blotching and discoloration when you are done. Metallic lays on the surface of the paint and when you color sand the paint you will cut into the metallic and cause it to look blotchy and if you try and sand out a run, the run will still appear even when the surface is smooth.
     
  20. gregs75duster

    gregs75duster Well-Known Member

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    IM in a similar situation... i was gonna use dupli colors all in one paint system. But im leary of it and keep going back to something my dad always told me growing up..........You never have time to do it right the first time, But you always have time to fix it. Its a job i only wanna do ONCE! So i've decided not to paint my car until i can afford a better quality paint. Just an Oppinion.
     
  21. Rob

    Rob Well-Known Member

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    Beautiful, I can spray pretty much OP free but I always seem to get some of the Urethane Wave, I don't see any of that on your car. What's your secret? :munky2:
     
  22. Eric_S68

    Eric_S68 Well-Known Member

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    I did mine in White epoxy primer to start, Made for a nice Fake Basecoat/ primer if you will, with some zinc in it to fight the rust. It can be tinted to any underlying color you want. It eliminated a basecoat step and saved on paint.
     
  23. alleyoopmgv

    alleyoopmgv Well-Known Member

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    2 sessions of polyester primer, 2 sessions of dry sanding
    2 more rounds of K38 high build and 2 more times dry sand
    1 last round of K36, and then 2 more sessions of wet sanding

    It's a lot of work, but it's straighter than an arrow. All this is based on your metal, and that your mud work is straight.
     
  24. daves66valiant

    daves66valiant 68 Dart 340/727:66 Signet Vert 340/5spd: 68 D100

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    Nice work alley. I still get some urethane wave too. I'll be doing a flowcoat of clear so hopefully I'll get less wave on the second round of clear.

    I do the same method except I seal the bare metal first with epoxy, then skim with filler all over and block. 2-3 coats poly dry sand to 320, then 2k primer wet 400 wet 600, then epoxy as a sealer then base/clear.

    I wish I had a pro spray booth. I always end up getting some dust.
     
  25. Rob

    Rob Well-Known Member

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    It isn't the body, I work it until it's straight as a die, it's the clear, most people I've talked to get the dreaded Urethane Wave, even when you flow coat. Not really on hoods and other flat areas where I guess it can flow out better. What type of clear do you use? I use Dupont Chroma Premier, very high solids I guess, probably a contributing factor
     
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