Sometimes you should not look

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moparlvr166

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73 Scamp started disc brake upgrade & replace front bushings and ball joints, Found right lower control arm and strut bar bent, car drove strait (that's what you get for looking) Got replacement control arm and strut from here, now front end and disc brakes done, repainted engine compartment. I had removed engine for reseal when doing the front end. (had a fairly new rebuilt engine installed prev owner) was leaking from valve cover oil pan and All THE BLUE SILICONE they used did not stop the leak. engine ran good, compression 150 in all cylinders, had a slight coolant leak on head next to t-stat housing. I cleaned the area up and found a repair on head looked like someone used to outer bolt hole to lift the engine and cracked the head. when it was rebuilt they welded it up (still porous). I don't like leaks, found another head and had it cut .040 guides, seats. found pistons .040 over .185 in hole check all the #'s and I will have compression at 7.789 (NICE for a turbo build) just want a NA driver, maybe I should advance the cam 10deg so the intake valve will close sooner? lol. OK now I start on the short block, clean it up, the rear main seal was not leaking, I decide since I'm here I will replace anyways. (that's what you get for looking) found #6 rod bearing with some groves and #1 main bearing front 1/8th worn heavy, I sent crank to machine shop hope to just polish, came back great, got new bearing rod clearance .001-.0015 mains .0015 end play .005 then I see the oil squirt hole in rods are going to spray the left side of the block (away from camshaft) asked on other thread and got the correct answer (thanks everyone). Now need to have rods removed and installed in correct position (that's what you get for looking). I will eventually get this done just taking longer then I wanted.
 
good thing you did look, or you would have pulling it all back apart anyways. now when it is done it will be done correct.
Good Job.
 
You seem to like to write..."Thats what you get for looking".
 
150 psig compression is excellent for a slant. Must have been real gomers to try lifting the engine by the small T-stat housing bolt. The two big tapped holes on the top of the head are for lifting. Good you are checking everything and going slow. I wouldn't have even thought to look for the rod oil-squirter holes. I did a ring job on several engines, but never separated rods from pistons, so must have put them back right since the notch on the piston was facing forward.
 
Don't feel bad, I did the same thing.
Didn't like the little leak on the replacement, when the dust settled the only thing reused was the block, crank and pistons.
I replaced everything else. I sent the head from the old motor and had it machined.
On the upside, this /6 should last till after I'm gone.
 
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