Speedometer 100,000 Tattle Tail

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Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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Well I have been proven wrong yet again...

(Not surprising!)

I have 3 - 67 speedo heads and 4 - 68 up speedo heads.

I'm preparing to have 2 of the 67 speedo heads repaired.

In the process I am identifying parts on the 68 up that are better than on the 67s.

The face plate from one and the 1/10 odometer wheel from another.

I noticed a part not on the 3-67s or on 2 of the 68s

There is an eccentric cam and a metal follower on the driver's side of the odometer.

I had heard that the odometer gets marked when it passed 100,000 miles but had never seen it on my 67 which has gone around 3 times.

Well there it is.

Eccentric
PXL_20250516_170703144~2.jpg


Metal follower / scraper
PXL_20250516_170027041~2.jpg


Damaged "9"
PXL_20250516_170035408~2.jpg



If you have your cluster out and your odometer has not passed 100,000 miles (the 9 looks good)

I would drill out the pop rivet and remove the metal follower (use EXTREME caution that the metal chips are prevented from getting into the workings of the speedo) alternately you could probably bend the metal follower so it can not make contact with the 90,000 wheel or snip it off.


As part of this speedo will be donated to my 2nd 67 speedo I decided to test out my advice for disabling the scraper.

First I tried to bend the scraper arm down, it might work but there is a tab on the arm that interlocks with the 90,000 odometer wheel and makes bending it truly out of the way complicated.

I did not get a photo :(


Next I tried to snip it off, that proved to be the easiest and cleanest method.
PXL_20250516_173840456~2.jpg


Then I drilled out the pop rivet. And of course the pop rivet is steel, so magnetic shavings EVERYWHERE! Hole left from the pop rivet in red
PXL_20250516_175740001~2.jpg


This is what the scraper looks like
PXL_20250516_174833947.jpg


This is the scraper arm cut off
PXL_20250516_174802976.jpg

There are 2 tabs on the part of the scraper that is still pop riveted on so it can not rotate and cause issues

Just found another difference...

The needle stop on 67 is on the "bell"
PXL_20250516_182944726~2.jpg

68 is on the face
PXL_20250516_182934420~2.jpg


But one of the press on 68s has the needle stop on the "bell"?

And another 68 has the stop on the "bell" BUT the metal that is bent down to catch it is not a part of the speedo bracket?
 
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My first question is why it matters that it marks the 9. My 2nd question is, are the 2 '68s that have the eccentric cam from later built models? As it seems that the 2 68s that don't may be from early 68 built cars still using 67 left over parts, but I thought that the fonts were a bit different from 67 to 68.
 
My first question is why it matters that it marks the 9.
Looks ugly for 10,000 miles


My 2nd question is, are the 2 '68s that have the eccentric cam from later built models? As it seems that the 2 68s that don't may be from early 68 built cars still using 67 left over parts, but I thought that the fonts were a bit different from 67 to 68.


I can't say about the speedo years, I did not have a reason to track the dates when I took the clusters apart. I do have 1 - 70 or 71 in the mix, the others are 68-69

There does not seem to be any date codes on the speedo heads.

It might be that the earliest did not have it as about 1200 67s had press on speedos.

As for font, maybe the 68 has a thicker font?
And it might be less white (or all the others 67 and 68 have yellowed as compared to the best 67 I have)

67
PXL_20250516_181248512.jpg

68
PXL_20250516_181318757.jpg



Worst to best (left to right)
(s) = With scraper
Back row 67 - 68(s) - 68 - 68(s) - 67 - 67
Front 68
PXL_20250516_182230310~2.jpg
 
I thought they had like a dye on them, started to color the last wheel. After 50 years the ink has dried out. Maybe some dried out after 25 years likely.
 
This is my 68. Kim
what did the 9 (in the 10,000 position) look like 1903.4 miles ago

Also the numbers and the 1/10 wheel look off white compared to the speedo markings, is that correct?
 
I thought they had like a dye on them, started to color the last wheel. After 50 years the ink has dried out. Maybe some dried out after 25 years likely.
all of the speedos I have if 67 are Stark White letters and 1/10th mile wheel ( except where they sat in the sun baking for 48 years ) and the 68s are off white. ONE oddity is one 68 speedo has all the numbers and the 1/10th mile wheel is off white EXCEPT one number on each wheel and one number on the 1/10 mile wheel, like it was at that mileage and the sun bleached the off white to stark white?
 
Truthfully I can’t remember cause it’s been 30 years since I last owned it. I just took the pic and it’s probably isn’t a very good one with the glare on it. I’ll can get a better pic when I get it home. Hopefully by the end of June. Also I don’t remember how many miles were on it when I sold it. This is the mileage when I got it back. I’m doing some things to it b4 I drive it. Kim
 
I thought they had like a dye on them, started to color the last wheel
There is a possibility of that as there was a felt pad on the scraper, I assumed it was to limit the scrapers scraping
 
I have 2 - 67 speedos at the repair shop.

It was VERY reassuring when the repair gal pointed to the bushing under the clock spring and said that's where the trouble usually starts!
 
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