Spindle Nut Torque - 9 in Drum Brakes????

-

mydart270

myDart270
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
190
Reaction score
7
Location
Brattleboro, VT
MOPAR Gods:

what is a reasonable torque for the spindle nut on a 9 in brake drum setup? The manual says 55 ft lbs but that is very tight and the wheel barely turns. Right now I am using 25-30 ft lbs with no movement of the drum and wheel on the spindle. Some people say finger tight first and then i complete turn of the nut.

Thx....love MOPAR and Dodge Darts
 
Tighten down ,back off till slack then sung it ,aprox 14ft lbs it’s a feel thing .
 
torque??? it is supposed to provide a bit of play. That is why there is a cover for the nut that allows you to fix the position of the nut with the correct amount of play with the cotter pin. Where did 25-30 ft lbs come from???

snug the nut until all play disappears when you shake the drum/hub assembly in and out and then back it off little by little until you can barely feel some play. Put the nut cover on in a position where you can install the cotter pin without affecting the nut position.

Are you working on an early car with spindle nuts on the rear axles and that is where 25-30 lbs came from?
 
Spin the hub when doing the initial tightening before backing off. Especially if its a fresh bearing grease pack.
 
Tapered roller bearings require preload when initially set up. They don't need any "play". I've never torqued one in my life, but if I had to guess, I probably go 10-12 LB FT. If the cotter pin hole doesn't line up where I feel good tightening it, I tighten to the next hole and put the pin in. Never back it off to line the cotter pin up.
 
Tapered roller bearings require preload when initially set up. They don't need any "play". I've never torqued one in my life, but if I had to guess, I probably go 10-12 LB FT. If the cotter pin hole doesn't line up where I feel good tightening it, I tighten to the next hole and put the pin in. Never back it off to line the cotter pin up.
I wouldn't say "never". If I was using a torque wrench at 12 LB FT and I was in between slots on the nut I would back up. Individual preference I guess. Now on a tapered fitting, like a tie rod end, well that's a different story.
 
I read 90inch lbs. so around 7.5-8ft lb. While rotating the hub. Then back off, then finger.
I just looked in the FSM and this procedure is pretty much spot on. I still do it my way as I have for over forty years. Never a failure.
 
the slots on the nut cover are made so that if you pull it off and move it around on the nut (without moving the nut) you should be able to find a position where the slots line up with the hole in the spindle.
 
OP if you read the service manual the procedure is right in them. You can download them for free from MyMopar. Several of them over there came from the guys right here. Not sure anymore, believe it's under "wheels and tires."
 
The nut should be tightened [ to ensure the brgs are fully seated ] & then backed off to the next slot in the nut. Ball & roller brgs require some endplay.
 
If you read 55 ft lbs then your chart is wrong or you are reading it wrong.

post #7 and #9 is a good way to go on these.
 
the year is now 2022
A great deal of information about theses old cars has been improved upon since the late 60's such as how tight should the front wheel bearings be. The proper way from back then is not very precise but go ahead keep using the caveman procedure rather than the best way to set the torque. I am not interested in arguing with the stubborn old school here but go ahead as it will be just like the timing chain tensioner BS. Flame away.

While spinning the drum/rotor seat the wheel bearings by tightening the bolt. If you have good mechanical feel just tighten it till it's tight then back it off, if not try 15 ft lbs with the towque wrench. Using an INCH POUNDS torque wrench tighten the bolt to 90-120 inch pounds depending on use while spinning the drum/rotor. Small tires 90
big tires 120
that's it...
 
I tighten mine down as I rotate the wheel to seat them, then back off the nut to get get between 0 and a few thousandths endplay. I do want to see some endplay with tapered roller bearings and not have them sandwiched tightly into the races. That's how I adjust trailers, 4x4 front diffs, 8 3/4's, and full floaters. Just one man's opinion.
 
finger tight and back off to the first cotter hole.
55 lbs is probably spindle to lower ball joint?
 
I read 90inch lbs. so around 7.5-8ft lb. While rotating the hub. Then back off, then finger.
Yup, after you seat the bearings with light torque (under 10 foot pounds) back off the nut and then re-tighten it finger tight. Then rotate the nut cap until the cotter pin can be installed. If you have to, tighten the nut SLIGHTLY to get the cotter pin to go in.
 
I am not interested in arguing with the stubborn old school here...

Maybe you aren't but I am. Just where did you get this "information" you claim is up to date?

An yeh............IT IS AN ACTUAL QUESTION
 
-
Back
Top