Spray can and clear coat question

-
I

Inspector71

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
384
Reaction score
56
Location
Lee's Summit Missouri
Maybe if all goes well this summer, I might be able to repaint the engine bay and trunk of the 68 Barracuda. I've done it before with paint from spray cans and it worked okay. While looking at rattle cans on line, I noticed each offers clear coat as well. At what point would one apply clear coat over top of paint? When it is still wet, mostly dry, or wait until it is completely dry. Thanks for the help you all have given me.
 
most manufactures have there own "flash times" if you go onto there web site it will let you know. I know that some spray bombs are pretty touchy about recoat intervals.
 
Yea I've hit it too soon and caused the spider effect but it worked for what I was doing lol most of the stuffthat turned out good iI hit after it dried
 
Great advice. I've always had the habit of getting something just about perfect, and hitting it with a little more and ruining everything. I will follow the rules this time.
 
just did that myself. was spray bombing a 8 3/4 rear housing with satin black. looked good but thought 1 more coat couldnt hurt. well it had sat too long between coats and the paint spider veined on me really bad.
 
Try to get epoxy type or urethane type paint and clear if you are going spray bomb.

Most that spray bomb is half *** at best and you can expect immediate or near future problems.

If you are doing black gloss, the appliance epoxy enamel is quite nice for a spray can. It is single stage and finishes with a great hard gloss. I used it on a set of brake drums and it held for 5 years and they werent even sand blasted, just cleaned with MEK and a wire brush wheel. Appliance spray cans have other colors but it is more appliance colors.

You really need to get a little used air compressor and a cheap gravity feed gun from Eastwoods. Then find a local auto paint store folks and buy small amounts of the color you want. You can get great results with acrylic urethane single stage if you prep the object properly.

TCP Global is an excellent web source for tons of paint, clear and accessories with great pricing.

Also
http://www.smartshoppersinc.com

has lots of auto paint / body stuff.
 
I wouldn't use clear coat in the engine bay and trunk. It is almost impossible to touch up clear coat well, and those areas get nicked easy. Rattle can paint has held up well in my engine bay. I like Rustoleum cans you can spray at any angle. It is all in the prep. Wire brush or sand blast to shiny metal or at least black, hard rust. I used Rust Destroyer primer which etches bare metal and converts rust, plus good to 800 F, but allow at least 1 week cure or risk wrinkling the top coat.
 
Great advice. The color of the car is UU1 which I'm not real big on. Most of it is faded under the hood and I want to sand and prep it for Q5 seafoarm (metalic turquoise). Great advice here.
 
Use a single stage in engine bay. Search it on here, like three guys have used it and used preval sprayers or factory matched color in cans. I'm going to use the preval.
 
Check out my engine bay! It went to a local body shop/paint supply and had them match my color in a spray can, color is a match tot he original and looks great! I cleaned up the engine bay, then sanded it all by hand, then wiped it down with laqur thinner, then primed it. The paint from the can came out and went on WAY better than I ever expected! I covered it with 2 or 3 coats, never used any clear. The paint has help up good to dirt and grime, water, even oil. It has even held up to some tools being dropped on it, very few chips. Very little orange peel and has a nice shine. I did this cause I was on a budget and didn't have a spray gun, done inside my garage. It looks way better than it did before, and was easy to do with the engine out. Someday I want to repaint the whole car, then it will all get done properly, but for now, i'm very happy. I think it cost about $25 for a mixed can, I might have bought 3 cans if I remember right. :glasses7:
 

Attachments

  • Picture 282.jpg
    112.9 KB · Views: 309
  • Picture 281.jpg
    69.9 KB · Views: 314
  • Picture 279.jpg
    80.2 KB · Views: 347
Spray max 2k is the best aerosol going to my knowledge. Plus you get all the benefits of chemical resistance of all modern day urethane systems. It will always be superior to all other 1k aerosols. It is expensive compared to the cheapo spray bombs. But worth every penny IMO. Good luck.
 
Fst73_360 said:
Use a single stage in engine bay. Search it on here, like three guys have used it and used preval sprayers or factory matched color in cans. I'm going to use the preval.
Click to expand...

Good luck with that. I've had no problem running primer through a PreVal sprayer. I've had problems running polyurethane Delstar (TB3) both with and without clear coat through a PreVal. The paint clogged up the tube in both cases. I had strained it well to prevent that from happening and had shaken the paint well to break up solid/gummy blobs that had developed.

I thinned the paint to mfg recommendations. Maybe if I had thinned it more, it would have worked. I don't know enough about finishes to get creative with the proportions of the ingredients.

I do like the small size of the PreVal. It gets into small spaces a lot easier than a conventional gun.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top