Stalling 65 273 Barracuda

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Bud27

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Im back working on daughters Barracuda had electrical issues and got them resolved . Car starts and runs fine when warmed up but we stopped quickly to avoid car pulling out of driveway and it died . I drove it and and seems like if you stop at high RPMs it dies . Trying to get it reliable daily driver for school and work . She wanted to sell it cause it wouldn't charge went through hell figuring that out with a bunch of help from members . Any suggestions ?

Thanks in advance Bud
 
Does it start right back up after it stalls?

What do you need to do to get it restarted after it stalls?

Points or electronic ignition?

Are there any "sloppy" wires that may be bottoming out with bare wire against the body when stopping?

Could it be fuel sloshing and uncovering the jets when suddenly stopping?


Just a few ideas to get the thought process started....
 
Carter 2 barrel ,points wires are fine and it restarts right up . Hesitates also from stop then jumps like it should . Thanks for the replies . Confused about this- Could it be fuel sloshing and uncovering the jets when suddenly stopping?
 
I seriously doubt the jets would be uncovered considering they set near the bottom of the bowl. I would first suspect the float is set low; that is one cause of the off-idle hesitation that you mentioned.

If the carb is unknown and acting up, checking/setting the float level is item number 1 anyway; most all carb circuits depend on it being right. Then reset the idle mixture screws to max vacuum when warmed up.

Also, check the PCV to make sure it is right; sucking air through it at a low speed, it should be open and free. But if you suck hard, the flow should restrict down. If it is not restricting properly when you suck hard (when there is high manifold high vacuum under deceleration or at idle), then too much air will be drawn in, and the mixture gets upset.

A vacuum leak would normally cause the idle to be bad all the time.

If your daughter does not want to drive it, then adopt me and I'll drive it LOL!
 
I seriously doubt the jets would be uncovered considering they set near the bottom of the bowl. I would first suspect the float is set low; that is one cause of the off-idle hesitation that you mentioned.

If the carb is unknown and acting up, checking/setting the float level is item number 1 anyway; most all carb circuits depend on it being right. Then reset the idle mixture screws to max vacuum when warmed up.

Also, check the PCV to make sure it is right; sucking air through it at a low speed, it should be open and free. But if you suck hard, the flow should restrict down. If it is not restricting properly when you suck hard (when there is high manifold high vacuum under deceleration or at idle), then too much air will be drawn in, and the mixture gets upset.

A vacuum leak would normally cause the idle to be bad all the time.

If your daughter does not want to drive it, then adopt me and I'll drive it LOL!


Well this time I'm going to follow your directions step by step lol . I really appreciate your input . We finally got the electrical fixed . Interior was a pain but almost done just tieing up lose ends . I check the your info and get back tomorrow .

Thanks Bud
 
need enough initial (15 would be a good start, definitely NO less than that even tho OE is 5BTDC-2bbl and 10BTDC -4bbl which ain't enough). Are you on ported? for the stalling I would check (1) float level (2) adequate idle speed and (3) take out the two idle speed screws and shoot a 3 second blast of starting fluid or brake kleen (which ever can has the thin red nozzle) or open the nozzle to fit the straw) into each idle screw open ing then replace the screws & confirm they are opened enough turns out from lightly seated cuz a too lean idle will make it die. First count the # of turns IN to lightly seated to get a baseline on where your idle mixture adjustment screws are at RIGHT NOW. On the hesitation: float level and confirm you have an AP squirt starting immediately upon tip in (which is right when you move the throttle).
 
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