What's yur stall speed?
What cam?
Here's my thinking;
when you put it in gear, the rpm is immediately pulled down, which kills the airspeed thru the carb, without-which the fuel also goes away, and so, the engine has NO CHOICE but to stall.
I bet it shifts real hard into gear, right?
With a cam of 230@050 or less, which is what I currently have; The following assumes that ;
> The gas is fresh and uncontaminated,
> that your float-level is correct,
> that your IABs are open,
> that your Crankcase is not overfilled,
> that your ring-gaps are adequate,
> that your skirts are not dragging,
> that your cylinder-pressure is more or less even,
> that the coolant temp is acceptable,
> and that the exhaust is free-flowing.
> make sure the PCV is plumbed to the base of the carb or intake, in close proximity to the front of the throttle-valves
> Make sure that ALL the air that is getting into the engine, besides the PCV, is coming in past the Primary throttle valves,
OK HERE WE GO:
> Disable the VA unit
> Close the secondaries up tight but not sticking
> Reduce your Idle-timing to in the window of 8>12
> Increase your mixture screws to 1.25 turns out.
> reduce your Idle speed to maybe 700,
> twiddle the screws for best rich idle.
> try it again.
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Here's the deal;
>The more Idle-Timing you run, the more Idle-Torque the engine will make. To keep the rpm down, you will close the Curb-idle screw. This will close the Transfers. To get the fuel back, you will open the mixture screws. OK so set up like this, it will idle with a high velocity past the throttles. This will more or less dry up the transfers. Sure it idles fine, but it is in fact, messed up.
>If you take your carb off, you should have the transfers visible underneath, showing from square to a little taller than square. Put them there, and then LEAVE THE CURB-IDLE SCREW ALONE.
>Reset the mixture screws as may be required.
>To reset the idle speed, you now use Idle-Timing.
>If your cam is bigger than 223@050 (my previous cam), it may want some Idle bypass air to achieve an acceptable idle-quality.
>The biggest cam I have run is the Mopar 292/292/108, which absolutely needed bypass air to keep the T-slot sync in a good place.
>If your carb has a 4-corner idle, yes you can crack the secondaries, and change the mixture screws appropriately. But keep the T-slots to square to slightly taller than wide, as before .
