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Start of a Dart

  1. It's time to get a resto thread going. I've been jonesing for a 69 Dart for quite a while. I want to put together a BB Dart, 383 with a 4-speed. Make some room, @DentalDart, there's another 69 Dart under way. Except yours is good looking, runs, and has hope in its future. Mine, not so much.

    There are many, many, super nice looking cars out there but for me, the Grand Prize Winner is a 69 Dart. I've been on the hunt for three years, seriously looking at Darts from as far away as IL, OK, ID, CA, and FL. All had some kind of deal killer (too much money, too far away, too much rust, lack of interest on the seller's part to send photos and discuss the details of the car, horrible color) and so forth. I cruise CL, eBay, and recently FB Marketplace on a regular basis checking things out.

    A while ago I found a good deal on a 383, 4-speed, and 8-3/4 rear and. So I got no car and it's breakin' my heart, but I've got a drive-train and that's a start. To channel the Beatles! Kind of a crappy photo, but engine, tranny, and rear and are all sitting there waiting for a new home.

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    Next, I find a FB ad for a 69 Dart locally. According to the ad, it's a 340 car, Edelbrock intake and carb, purple cam, X-heads, a 720 (?) tranny, and BBP wheels. When I get there to check it out, it's a 904 tranny, SBP wheels, and I'm unable to determing 340 or not - the block was painted black so I can't see the casting numbers. It does have MSD ignition, Accel coil, some kind of SS headers, PS and PB. Sadly, it's buried behind a mountain of junk in the back yard. Everything you see in the photo was piled behind the car, we had to move it out behind the tree. Along with another pile of stuff on the driver's side of the car and about 25 or so 8' long 2x6 boards.

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    Once the path was clear, it was time to see if we are we pushing it out or driving it out. A new battery, some starting fluid, and it coughed to life. It sounds nicely healthy! The trans was sluggish from 6-8 months of inactivity, but we got it to move out of the back yard on its own power.

    The car needs everything gone through. Sadly, the PO passed away and it's been sitting for several years, in addition to being a 25 year project. No one knows when it was last licensed and driven on the streets. Which means I will have to go through it from stem to stern to make sure things are OK. This will be a slow project, I have a timing chain to throw in a slant PU and all the work to do on the Valiant before I tackle this business. But with some luck, I may be able to get it road worthy without a ton of work (hahahahaha).
     
  2. Super excited to see what you got and what you do with it!

    I mean mine runs... but doesn't stop, or move off the jack stands still :rofl:
     
  3. More photos from today.

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  4. Good luck with the car. Will be a cool cruiser!
     
  5. Nice! Loads of potential! I would have to axe the Ford scoop though.
     
  6. Oh yes, it's going away. Luckily, it's just there for looks - it's bolted in place and no hole cut for air flow. I will have a couple of bolt holes to fix. Along with all the trim strip holes and vinyl top holes and God Knows whatever other holes I find. I expect I will get good at brazing holes shut before this is done. :eek:
     
  7. Yay! Another NW 69 Dart! Well optioned car and you got the steering column you'd need.
     
  8. I would not sleep on the title/registration, its better to deal with it from the start. Awesome project, I think most of us dream of digging something out of a pile of debris and bring it back to life.
     
  9. This. I know in Oregon you need a signed title and a signed and date Bill of Sale. If lost the previous owner needs to file for a lost title or pay the DMV to send a letter to the last known registered owner for release.
     
  10. Nice find! Luckily in WA the worst case for licensing is the ‘ownership in doubt’ process.
     
  11. Agreed, it would be foolish to work on the car for a good period of time, and then find out you can't title it. I tried to register it today but needed an additional form. The owner said it was complete and ready to pick up.

    Some good news, I went over this thing with a large refrigerator magnet, and I can't find even one spot of bondo. Which means unless I'm an idiot (always a possibility) this is arrow straight original sheet metal. It does need the lower rear quarters replaced, but everything else looks good.

    I added a new fuel filter, as the old one looked like it was full of pudding. I will sort out the fuel tank and lines later, at least I'm catching the crap before it gets to the carb.

    It needs a new battery and hold-down, on the shopping list for tomorrow.

    I need to source all new keys. The ignition, doors, glovebox, and trunk locks are all shot.


    Done deal! Turns out the scoop was drilled but not bolted. Pried it up with a putty knife and immediately improved the look!

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  12. You can never go wrong with a 69 Dart. The trim holes on the shoulders down the sides of the car and on the hood suggest to me it was likely a GT.
     
  13. Congratulations!!...:thumbsup:..
     
  14. Yes, it's a GT. I don't like the trim, so I'm going to fill the holes and get that smooth look. Same thing with the vinyl top, it's not coming back.

    Thanks! You need to see this thing, it's a soul brother to your Duster.

    Today's update: No work done yesterday, as it took all afternoon to get the car titled in my name. It hasn't been on the road since 1994 and was so far off the grid the local DMV couldn't even find the car in their system. It took several calls to the state DMV folks to get it squared away, but it's done and I can relax about the legal issues.

    Today was bath day, this car was one grubby little pig inside and out! I feel confidant there has been no water on this car other than what falls from the sky, for a very very long time. I had to scrub everything with a brush, even using a putty knife at times to get the crud off. It is an F3 green car, but I'm of the school of thought that a green car should not be so due to mold and mildew from our wet climate. Yes, I know it's yellow at the moment. The PO painted it and I was told this was yellow primer, but it's not sticking well - I think it's paint. We will deal with that later. Bottom line, it is clean enough now that I can work on it without a HazMat suit. When it's road worthy, it will get a final cleaning. It looks lots better!

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    The whole car got vacuumed too. It was sitting under a very large fir tree, and needles had dropped into everywhere. I scraped and picked out the needles on the exterior. When looking at other places needles could go, I noticed the bottom rear of the front fenders (just in front of the doors) had crud in them. I was going to scrape that out with a very long screwdriver, when I had a flash of brilliance (not normal in my world). I used my spring powered four-finger grabber used to retrieve dropped nuts and bolts to reach into the fender area. It worked like a champ. It was high time to do this, I did not get rusted out but it was going to happen with time. I also cleaned out the trunk drop-offs, but that was a somewhat academic exercise - both are shot and will need to be replaced. Here is the crud inside the fender that was 4" deep, and just one of four piles of crud I pulled out.

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  15. Title and tabs in your name? WOOHOO! I do love the WA DOL offices. When they can, its made so much simpler than OR, NV, or CA. Congrats on leaping that hurdle!
     
  16. That would look good on my RobKat. Nice find! I am glad you found one. You've been at it a while now.
     
  17. Slow progress but the weather here has been real nice the last few days so I decided to tackle an outdoor project while it was relatively warm and sunny. The PO was said to have sanded down the original F3 green paint and re-primer it in yellow (?). Getting a better look at it I think it was just painted over. Lots of runs and flaking off the old paint. Much of the car was sanded down to bare metal and left to the weather so it was rusted in many spots. I was pushed for time, so I gave it a quick sand job to take off the worst of the rust, wiped it down, and primed as much as I could. I left the fine-detail stuff for later like around the rear window. That area will take a lot of masking but I can do that inside later on.

    The good news, I just got this done before it was too cold to rattle-can it. The bad news, my highly questionable wiring is acting up again and I have no spark so the car is stuck outside in the driveway. :BangHead:

    (Sigh). I will be calling my neighbor to bring his tractor over and push this back in the shop where I will sort out all the mysteries awaiting me.

    I see the possibility of a complete rewire in my future. Looking at the cobbled-together mess under the dash and hood, it might be easier to just rip it all out and start over.

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  18. This is exactly what I did to my 69 GT. I am very happy I did. We welded all the holes shut. I did leave the GT emblem on the hood for some character since it was otherwise just a flat hood.
     
  19. I was able to get the car up on the lift, and verify it is indeed a 340 with a 727. Woohoo! I wasn't certain that would be the case but the casting number is correct. There's a bonus for sure.

    Does anyone recognize the headers for this thing? I'm just curious who made them, as I can't find any kind of maker's mark on them anywhere. They do fit well with the PS and PB though.

    Passenger side:

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    Driver side:

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  20. Congrats on a great find, halfafish!
    Now there are at least 3 '69 Dart build threads going on. Yours, @DentalDart, and my long overdue thread
    My '69 Dart Build - Finally
    I've been watching DentalDart's thread and will now be watching yours as well.
    I hope to post an update on my build thread soon.
     
  21. Progress is slow the last week or two, but at least I can report forward movement. The front bumper, lights, and grill are in, and the front trim for the hood will be on shortly. I tried to attach the rear bumper but - surprise! - the bolts are a different size than the front so it's back to the hardware store. Again. I'm becoming besties with the guy in the fastener aisle there. The front stuff only took three trips to get all the screws needed, this will be the third trip for the rear bumper and lights. A new ignition switch should be in at Auto Zone, and it looks like I need a new headlight switch. The lights function with direct power but nothing from the switch.

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    Whoops! Went to put the rear bumper on, and not only the bolts are a different size, evidently someone had a boo-boo on the left side. I'll have to pull the bracket down to get the bumper on. Note to self, stay realistic knowing you bought someone else's half-finished project...

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  22. Glad you found your car!!! Looks like a great project!
     
  23. Only 6 trips to get mounting bolts for the bumper, that's easily a 10 trip for me! The nice thing about becoming friends with the local auto store guys is they start giving you their employee discount, ask me how I know. Lol

    My wife sometimes thinks I'm an idiot, shes like what the F, 4 trips to install new windshield wipers? Seriously.... :rolleyes:

    I wish I could help with the lights but I cant. I'm just ignoring the fact that I havent been able to get my blinkers to work lol.
     
  24. Great find. Get you one of these for blowing out junk in fenders and cowl panels. I call this the magic wand. Also unbolt the bottoms of the fenders, and stick a small wedge in there to seperate em from the body about 1/4" and gig em with that blower.

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  25. I bet that cowl is plugged with effing pine needles too. Remove the heater box on the right, the air box on the left. And douche that out with the "magic wand"
     
  26. progress feels good huh, once I get mine going may head down your way for a fun run
     
  27. Great idea, and I already have a Magic Wand with about the same length snout on it. Yes, this thing sat under a HUGE fir tree for a while. I easily pulled out a half gallon of wet soppy pine needles from everywhere, the cowl was on the agenda. Great idea to blow them out, I was going to try scraping them using the slots in the cowl. Someone else suggested using a shop vac inside the airbox while moving the junk in the cowl. I'm going to give that a try before pulling the fresh air boxes.
     
  28. C'mon down any time, I will have an adult beverage ready for you. It's always good to gather with the Mopar Brethren.
     
  29. Or after it all dries out in your garage, just do 70 down the highway with the air box vents open and a pair of goggles on lol. Or attach trash bags to the vents and do the same.
     
  30. Got the grill and front bumper installed last night, it looks so much better!

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    Also fixed the bent bracket on the right rear bumper, and pounded the tail light area so it's mostly back in original shape. The tail light housing goes in easily, so it's good enough for now. Nothing like a come-a-long and a BFH to convince sheet metal to go where you want it, eh? New headlight switch came in this morning, maybe I'll have lights that work later today?

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  31. I got the front hood trim back on. I swear, everything I touch on this car takes five times longer than it should. I was missing one mounting stud on the trim and didn't want to shell out the Big Bucks for the correct one, so I found an oddball trim strip holder, cut it down, and slid it in place. It works fine and I'm the only one who knows it was bastarized. I still need to find the little 2" center piece for the hood trim, it was not in the car or the extra parts that came with it. The trim reminds me of a pretty girl with a nice smile, but one front tooth knocked out. :eek:

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    Got the tail lights cleaned up and painted the interiors with chrome rattle can stuff, they came out looking good. I made a set of tail lens dividers off an original by tracing onto galvanized tin and giving them the same chrome paint. They came out nice.

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    Spent a couple of hours re-shaping the trunk panel, it was bent in several directions. Lots of slow work with a hammer and punches, it's fairly straight finally. I got the tail lights in and the panel mocked up for fit, it is starting to look like a car!

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    Next up is getting a hand to put on the back bumper, it's just heavy enough and at an odd angle to call for some help. Plus I'm not sure it lines up right or not. After that it's time to sort out the electricity, and figure out why the lights, horn, and heater don't work.
     
  32. if everything on mine only took 5 times longer I would be happy, good to see progress!
     
  33. More progress, but it's a game of one step forward, two steps back. I had to take off the taillights a dozen times, as the teeny screws that hold the lens and bezel in place stripped out of the housing and there's so little meat there I didn't want to tap it out to the next larger size. I wound up finding some tiny flat speed nuts and screws that were juuuuust long enough so now they are bolted not screwed in place. The tail panel was finished off.

    So, Mr. Back Bumper, would you like to go home? You say you would? OK, let's give you a heft into position and run the bolts in.

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    Oops! It's that Johnny Cash business again! Go to bolt it up and all the holes are gone!! Clearly, something happened back there but I don't know what. Oh, Mr. Big Ass Wrench, could you be bothered to give us a hand bending the bumper brackets back in place?

    As with most things in life, leverage is a good thing.

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    Got the end brackets bent into place, but still the center brackets are off - they are standing about a half inch away from the body. The reveal looks OK, but I need longer bolts and spacer washers to bolt it up. Time for today's stop at the hardware store. Hope I don't go to jail for making a pit stop there. :eek: However, the bumper is on and will be finished off today. Good thing I'm not a purist or I'd never get anything done. @billsdartgt , @DentalDart would you guys please put a cover on the rabbit hole so I can pass safely by?

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    Last bit of good news, I do indeed have X heads on the car!

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  34. Oh the rabbit hole, that place is not a fun place :(

    Yes be careful stopping at stores, I heard Karen is calling the cops on people she sees going for Non-essentials. Fyi- Karen is the psycho patient in dentistry:rofl:

    X-heads are supposed to be the good stock heads, awesome that you got them! that's what I got too.
     
  35. the cover has been put on already, we all just subconsciously take it back off and deny any knowledge that it ever existed, don't worry, your not to far in, you could come back out any time
     
  36. Slow progress last night. I started on the electrical to see why nothing works, and it turns out the battery was dead. No wonder all the electrical is out. This is a brand new battery that won't hold a charge, so back to NAPA it went where it was replaced under warranty for a bigger one. No improvement on the nothing-electrical-works front, but at least I have a good battery. Added the battery hold down, swapped out the former throttle return spring that was from something like a screen door for a pair of lighter springs, and got the radiator overflow bottle installed. Prep work for taking this to the strip once everything opens back up!

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    It sure is easier to work on things when you have the right fasteners! I got pretty hacked a while ago because once again, I was going to the hardware store for two screws. So I wound up getting a BUNCH of stuff in all the normal sizes needed.

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  37. Glad you found your 69 dart! Are you going keep the interior green? Great looking project look forward to watching the progress
     
  38. Yes, the interior will remain green. The outside too, but it's been painted in whatever to the current yellow. I will take it back to green when the time is right. For now, it's just get it running right so I can drive it for a while before deciding what to do with it.
     
  39. Nice I like green. My first car was a 69 Dart Custom slant 6 car beige green interior. I still have it and I’ll start a build thread hopefully this summer. I’ve compiled a ton of parts over the last 20 years for it.
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  40. Did you check and see if there was a draw on the battery when nothing was on? if so don't forget to take the negative off so it doesn't drain the battery...
     
  41. Yep. It's not a power draw problem, the battery was just plain no good. It was only a few months old and did nothing in that time. I would charge it, leave it disconnected, and two weeks later it would be dead. The guy at NAPA did one quick test and put the refund toward a much larger and better battery.
     
  42. What did you use for your radiator overflow? I have yet to install one on mine, but I keep considering it.
     
  43. I got this one from Amazon. I was able to bolt it up to a couple of factory holes on the passenger side of the radiator, no drilling or fab work. It sits low, but I don't care. This car will be a driver, not a show queen. Quality is nice and it came with all the brackets and fasteners.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0816D7QWT/?tag=joeychgo-20
     
  44. This comment disqualifies you to display it at the Mopar Nationals in the car show...lol...
    And by the way that beautiful Chrome overflowed canister should be on my car and my white plastic $10 cheapo should be on yours after all is a daily driver...lol...
     
  45. I intend to drive it at the Mopar Nationals this year, not show it. For a measly $26 you too can have a snazzy chrome overflow can. I'm sure it's good for at least 20 extra HP, yes?
     
  46. With that snazzy 340 you got and those X heads you should be entering it in sportsman and taking home drag racing trophies...
     
  47. Well, if the project gets stalled out for whatever reason - and the possibilities are endless - I will bring down the mighty 20-second Valiant, and you can try to chase me down with my 1000 foot head start without breaking out! :rofl::rofl::rofl:
     
  48. Oh the humanity getting beat by the trophy winning show Queen...lol...
     
  49. Hey............beat is beat, makes no difference what the particulars are. :rolleyes:
     
  50. Don't put the carriage before the horse my friend you need to get that out of the garage before you going to claim winners over the scrapper...lol..
    By the time I leave the line I'm going to be chasing a spec out in the distance LOL...
     
  51. I went back to work this week with a fair size backlog from being off the last three weeks, so updates have been scarce. Let's start the data dump, with "Why am I such an idiot"?

    I was going to check the rear windows to see if they worked OK. I knew the rear window cranks were gone, so I tried the front ones but they didn't fit. Then I tried the ones off the Volare. They didn't fit. I borrowed a crank off the D-150, it didn't fit either. I bought a different set at the PNP, guess what? They didn't fit. All the cranks just spun around like crazy, like the crank splines were way bigger than the shaft in the car. Then I actually climbed in the back seat to measure the shaft and, surprise! The reason they don't fit is because the allen head bolt that holds the crank on was on the shaft. Take out the bolt, the cranks fit just fine. Duh.

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    I'm an idiot part two. Who else buys stuff, only to forget about it and buy it again later? I really liked the 12V power station posted by @moparmat2000. My shop is a pigsty, with no good place to mount something similar but I had a spare tool box and made one that can be portable. Ordered all the parts from Amazon, installed it and was pleased with the results. It's portable so I can use it anywhere. Lots of room inside for all the cables I made.

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    I then put my new pride and joy away, only to find the bag full of identical parts I bought a few months ago for this project, sitting on the bench underneath. Sigh...

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    And one close call. I very nearly bought new front fender side reflectors, as the car didn't have any. I missed the purchase by a whisker, another member bought them first. I decide I really, really need to clean up some stuff, and under the bag full of duplicate parts I find one reflector. No clue if there is another one somewhere but at least I didn't buy a new set and wind up with an extra.

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  52. I too have the idiot spells, put things away so I can find them only to find them after I buy another one.
     
  53. I lied about the back bumper, it wasn't done as expected. No matter what I did, it wouldn't bolt up. Off it came another 6-7 times, as I continued to adjust the outside brackets down to get clearance to the tail light sheet metal. Two hours later, the damn thing actually fits, so the rear is all done including new tags! If I can get a few more things right, like brakes and lights, I might be able to drive this thing.

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    More wasted time! I had the car in the air to look at something, and saw some baling wire wrapped around the frame. It wasn't holding anything in place nor did it serve any function so I took it off. Then I look up and see a bolt sticking halfway out of its hole.

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    Hmmm, says I, whatever that goes to, it should be tight. And it isn't, because there's no nut on the backside. Then I realize this is the right motor mount. Like a Ginzu Knife commercial - But Wait! There's More! The hole above the bolt is also the motor mount and there's nothing there at all. Now I'm curious so I look at the other motor mount and the two front bolts are missing. The engine has been held in place for who knows how long by only the two rear bolts on the mounts. I'm sure glad I saw this BEFORE the car went for a shakedown cruise and I decided to stomp on it to see how it performs. :steering:


    The brakes don't work all that well, off came the rear drums for a look-see. Behold a pleasant surprise, there was a brand new brake job inside. The PO did not turn the drums before re-installing, so I popped on a set I had ready for the Valiant to get the rear brakes back together.

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    Next up, I'm going to cut off the exhaust. It has no leaks and works OK, but the wonky angles makes me a little crazy. Plus, it's blowing exhaust all over the brakes, shocks, and back tires which can't be good for any of them. A set of new collectors is on the way (Thanks, @diymirage!) I will reinstall the exhaust so it's flat to the floor, tucked up tight, and pointed at the ground.

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  54. Nice progress, glad to see another '69 Dart being saved! That will be a long-ass drive to The Nats!
     
  55. Well, the Nats out here are in Woodburn, an hour away from home.

    Not much progress this weekend. I had a friend over who noticed the alternator and PS belts were odd. One was too short, the other too long. Another trip to the parts store. Tried the new alternator belt, now it's TOO SHORT instead of too long. The alternator is hitting the fuel pump before I can get enough adjustment so something's not right here. A bit more staring and thinking, and I figure out the alternator adjustment arm is mounted to the wrong engine stud. A quick relocation and all is well. New belts are installed, along with a new 18" clutch fan.

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  56. Grey-Hair Disease rears its ugly little head again. I knew I bought a full set of 73+ front disc brakes, but for the life of me I couldn't find them. I went through the shop three times, opening every door, box, and container, and looking in, around, under, and over everything. No brakes to be found. Then I did it all over again, now having invested a total of 5-6 hours in the search. Still no brakes. Finally my smart-ass buddy says why don't you look in the trunk of the Valiant, since that's what you drove to the swap meet at the local Mopar Nationals. They can't be there says I, while I go through the shop again. Total wasted time is now approaching 7 hours. I give up and look in the Valiant, and surprise surprise, guess what I find? Of course, the brakes, along with the new 3.73 gears, a free radio, and some brake lines. Sigh...

    The good news is when I opened the box, I see the brakes are all refurbished and rebuilt! New calipers and pads, cleaned and painted UCA's and spindles. And I got these for $100, what a score!

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    The rotors were pretty crusty, but some love in the sand blaster cabinet and a trip to NAPA to get turned, and they are ready to go.

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    Who says a manly man can't paint his nails? All you have to do is be a cheap ass and refuse to throw out the rattle can of black spray paint when the squirter nozzle breaks off. A new can is a whopping three dollars, but I keep using it while it blows paint all over, including on me. :wtf:
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    Tires and wheels! Tires and wheels! If you give the nice man at the tire store your delivery from Summit and a crisp hundie, he will give you back mounted and balanced tires and wheels! There's just something perfect about steelies and Cobras!

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    On a more productive note, I finally got the exhaust straightened out. Of all the things I've completed on the car, this is the one that makes me smile the most. I don't know why the goofy setup bothered me so bad, but it drove me nuts every time I looked at it. Now it's all straightened up and looks right.

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    Since there is no work to be had and I've been spending money on parts like a drunken sailor, it's time to focus on the labor side of things for a bit. Today we're taking the 8-3/4 apart to swap out the pumpkin, get the brakes ready to install, and order the axles from Dr. Diff. Hopefully that will hold me in the parts purchasing department for a bit. The new front end rebuild kit is on the way from PST, it may arrive on Saturday with a little luck.

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    Who says a manly man can't paint his nails? All you have to do is be a cheap ass and refuse to toss out the rattle can of black paint when the squirter nozzle breaks off. If you keep using it, you can blow black paint all over everything, and maybe even get some on what you want to paint.
     
  57. I spend about a fourth of my time looking for the things I put away so I can find them, seems my mind likes to play hide and seek with itself - by time I find stuff I then have to figure out what my plans are all over again

    I need to have my internet shut down for a month or so, might help with buying more parts
     
  58. Despite having about zip for work the last month, and nothing likely for the next few months, I ordered more parts. A couple of ridiculously expensive gaskets to install the new gas tank, and the rest of the guts to rebuild the rear drum brakes. I think I can lay off the parts stuff for a while and focus on my free labor for a while.

    Lots of idiot work done yesterday. Got the front rotors cleaned up and painted, now they get a good wipe-down internally to get ready for the new bearings. The rear drums are cleaned, turned, and painted for both the Dart and the Valiant.

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    I sourced a proper-era jack that was a little crusty but it cleaned up and painted nice!

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    Today is the rest of the tear-down on the 11" rear brakes to harvest the parts I need for the new rear end. They, are again, crusty and will need a cleaning, blasting, and paint.

    Lots of "crusty" stuff going on in my world, including the owner of this mess. :D
     
  59. Dang, I need to pick up the pace or your gonna catch me - LOL - looking good - I am not sure what would be the best way to clean rusty parts - but if for some reason I even have to deal with the amount of rust again, I will sell a kidney to pay someone to do it for me - it just plain sucks.
     
  60. Shit howdy, brother. I couldn't catch you if I chained you to a post. Can't drive a car with no brakes...
     
  61. I've got new shiney brakes - without a master cylinder or any lines hooked to them haven't been able to make them work though.
     
  62. You will get another head start on me, as I'm currently going backwards. Not only do I have no brakes, now I have no gas tank either. My buddy came over yesterday to help get the tank out. It didn't look bad on the outside, but Oh My, the inside was another story. The entire top half is crusted with rust. When we dumped out the old fuel it looked like the broth from a can of chicken noodle soup, and that was after I added several gallons of fresh stuff to drive it out of the PO's back yard for the tow truck, and then into the shop. Oh wait, there's more, what's that rattling sound inside the tank? Why it's the float off the sending unit, long departed from its mooring on the end of the arm. It's completely rotted across the face and rear of what you can see, in a straight line. It must have sat in that 1/4 full tank for most of the 25 years since it last ran on the street. Perhaps this could be part of why the fuel gauge doesn't work?

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    I'm starting a pile of junk metal to go to the scrapper, the first residents are the tank and the 70's era Gabriel air shocks which were just about welded into position. I bet they have been on there for 40+ years.

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    The trunk looks to be in pretty good shape, but I knew the spare tire pan had something odd going on. From below, it looked like it was delaminating. The inside didn't look great, but a little digging revealed two holes (in orange) about the size of my thumbnail that had been goobered up in some kind of putty to plug the holes. I just received a replacement tire pan so it appears replacing this will move to the top of the to-do list. There is no sense replacing the gas tank if I have to take it back out to do the tire well. I have feelers out for a local welder who can do sheet metal (which is way above my pay grade).

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    Today will see the removal of the 7-1/4 rear end and a cleaning-fest on the 8-3/4 to get the surface rust off, and get it painted and assembled for installation. New springs, spring mounts, shocks, and hangars are here and ready to go in. Forward progress is a nice feeling!
     
  63. I like forward progress, came up with my plan for this weekend only to have hopes dashed due to corona delivery delays - it finally got me, still have another day but working on what the new plan will be now.
     
  64. I love painted steelies. Are you keeping yours black with chrome lug nuts for that street fighter look, or are you gonna dog dish it for the poverty pack look?
     
  65. You can follow it any time you wish. Take a rope with you so you can find your way back out though. Unless the rabbit chews through the rope. In that case your fucked.
     
  66. For now, the steelies will stay black. When paint enters the picture I may do them body color but that's a looooooong way down the road. I got new (shiny but not chrome) lugnuts for them but haven't decided on the dog dish caps or not. I have a set of beaters that would look OK and fit in with the junkyard dog theme.

    Yeah, I tried that, sort of. I used bread crumbs but the little bastards ate them and there I was, lost down the rabbit hole and can't find my way out....


    Otherwise, yesterday was not much to report. All I did was clean parts and paint parts. I suppose I could post a video of me scraping crap off the rear end housing for an hour, how interesting that would be! :rolleyes:
     

  67. Otherwise, yesterday was not much to report. All I did was clean parts and paint parts. I suppose I could post a video of me scraping crap off the rear end housing for an hour, how interesting that would be!


    looking at where Im at, I spent the most of my work time through 4 months of scaping and cleaning, of course really only work weekends though and have to fit in other household chores
     
  68. I like your lift. What kind is it? Any better pictures?
     
  69. The lift is an Atlas 8000 EXT. I got it from Greg Smith Equipment, who I would recommend. The EXT business means it goes about a foot higher than their base model. I wasn't going to get the extra height, but they had one in stock and did not have the base model in stock. They gave me a break on the price difference so I went with it. Having used it for a while I would recommend the taller lift if you have room. I'm pretty short, but at the next to the highest stop I can walk clean under this thing easily. Taller folks might have to duck a bit.

    The only thing I would strongly caution anyone who buys this thing, is get with me before you assemble it. The instructions are criminally and dangerously incomprehensible and incomplete. You could get seriously hurt or killed following them. That said, once I got it all figured out the lift itself is an excellent thing. This is all the pics I have handy, but I can get some better ones tomorrow.

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  70. Here you go @RustyRatRod, more photos.

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    As far as other work done today, more brake parts cleaned and painted. I got the rear end housing cleaned up, old seals out and ready for the new ones, and all the threads chased clean. It's ready for a wash, dry, and paint.

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  71. I got tired of making forward progress, so I decided to go backwards for a while. :wtf:

    Since the gas tank is out and the spare tire well needs to be replaced, I took out the rest of the rear of the car - axle, brakes, driveshaft, exhaust, and springs. They are all getting replaced anyway so now is the time! I can rest easy about my security measures for a while, I don't think anyone is likely to steal it at the moment. Undercoating, you are about to be evicted!

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    On a positive note, I got the gas filler tube cleaned up nicely, got the brakes all assembled, and finally got the last little piece of trim on the hood.

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    Here be something wonky I will have to figure out later. The e-brake cables from the axle did not have any keeper clips (easy fix) but the right one is about 3" longer than the left one. I don't see a reason why but will address this when it gets reassembled.

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    Death by screwdriver! I did some poking around on the rust situation, clearly I have a little cutting and welding in my future...

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  72. good to see the progress, my ebrake cables are also wonky, passenger side longer - wtf but gonna make it work, I made a cable bracket since mine was gone, may make an offset to account for the longer cable since I have to redo it anyway.

    on another note, any way you could send me your lift, would only need it a few weeks, I think I could actually get done sooner. - Like Danny Glover said - Im getting to old for this shit - crawling on the floor aint fun anymore.
     
  73. If you have cutting and welding in your future as you say I wouldn't be sourcing out the easy part the wheel well... after some practice pieces that would be a good first spot to start as nobody sees it and then move on to exterior body panels.
     
  74. I gave that some consideration and decided to go the outsourcing route so I can learn something. I know a guy in the car repair business who gave me contact info on a top-notch welder. He's going to come by and fix this, and I can watch and learn. However, I did get some scrap metal to start practicing with. At the moment, for sure I will need to replace both lower quarters, one trunk dropoff, and one lower rear front fender.
     
  75. Exactly my thoughts. It's so far off there's no way the factory arrangement will work.

    Well, we are close enough to being neighbors that if there wasn't about 2800 lbs of immobile crap on it at the moment, I'd say swing on by and help yourself. It was about $2500 and it's the some of the best money I've spent in a very long while. I'm with you and Danny Glover, the too old for this shit stuff is where the lift came from. I was working on the brakes for the Valiant and was updownupdownupdownupdown all day long, finally got pissed, and went the next morning to get the lift. And by the way, it's WAY better and faster working on stuff now. Everything can be at eye level or wherever you want it to be.

    Have I incited lift-envy yet?
     
  76. Have I incited lift-envy yet?

    I've had lift envy for years, This Dart has really kicked my butt this past year, part of it I guess is learning about Mopars, Mustang seemed a lot easier but another year or too older don't help. LOL
     
  77. I thought you owned a welder?..
     
  78. well damn, I have a pretty nice Miller 140 autoset, if you have a grinder you can weld with it is my motto

    I will bring it down and pick up the lift.
     
  79. I do, but it's the plain-jane Lincoln 220V stick welder. This is one of those things that's way outside of my skill set. I've worked with it some, but all the results are wretched. Note to self, it's time to get with someone who knows how to do this. I might not live long enough to figure it out by myself.
     
  80. yes those aren't relative much anymore and I'm sure there's a guru who'll jump in and say they do everything with them, but the only way to go now is a wire feed welder with argon gas... I just have a cheap Harbor Freight wire feed welder that is flux core wire. It does the job okay but doesn't leave as nice or welds as the argon gas.. I was just teaching my customer yesterday how to use his new argon gas welder with his 51 Chevy that we are notching the rear frame 4 a lowrider airbag deal...
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  81. As noted prevoiusly, my buddy came by and helped get the rear axle and springs out, so I have a completely clean work area from the trans crossmember to the back bumper.

    rear end.jpg

    Having worked my way through the question of do-or-do-not remove the undercoating, I decided to go down that road. I picked brains in a different thread for should-I-or-shouldn't-I and learned many ways to take this stuff off. I tried a couple of them but they were messy to say the least. I decided to get a needle scaler and try that. To say it was a resounding success would be the understatement of the year. Behold, my newest favorite tool. I ordered it locally from Grainger for $100 and picked it up the next day. It paid for itself in the first five minutes. Note the up-periscope high tech flashlight improvement, it really helps to see what's going on. I tried wetting down the undercoating to keep the dust down, but the water made for slower going, and it was uber-messy. I opted for lots of PPE and went the dry-and-dusty route. Full face shield, face mask, ear plug, ear muffs, and gloves. The only downside to this thing is it's pretty heavy so I have to take a break every so often so I don't seize up.

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    Here is a before picture of the left rear fender well, followed by an after picture of the right rear fender well. It only took 40 minutes or so to get it in spotless condition.

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    The heap-o-crap that came off the right fender. It's almost a half inch deep.

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    One more pic and I'll stop gushing about the needle scaler. This frame rail was completely crusty and scaly, 15 seconds later you can see the difference. This thing will do corners, seams, uneven surfaces, you name it. Today will see me going at it again to clean up more areas.

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  82. Look at the progress you're making! Those wheels and tires look awfully familiar.
     
  83. I think really, the wheels just look awful. I'm no fan, and eagerly await the day I get the new 15" BBP steelies installed.



    I've been working on the car, but progress isn't readily apparent. Cleaning up the underside is taking longer than I expected, so lots of labor but not much to show for it. I decided to spend a little time working on some smaller stuff, just so I could say I got something done. I got the antenna installed and a new plug end on it to fix the original which fell apart and wasn't repairable. I finally sorted out the ignition key and why it wouldn't go back in the dash, assembled and painted one good rear-view mirror from the bones of three others, and cleaned the seat belts which were grubbygrubbygrubby. I also got the new washer bottle and pump assembled and tested, it works fine. Once the MSD ignition comes out, that will free up the inner fencer real estate for the bottle.

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    I keep finding these funny little lights, I think they must be part of some kind of option package. There is one above the ignition (which is why it was a bugger to get back in - the light thingie has to be clocked correctly or it won't fit the hole) and another inside the ashtray. I can't see a bulb anywhere, but there are two teeny holes in the housing (in blue circles) so I suppose the light shines out of those. Does anyone know how these come apart to replace the bulbs? I don't see any threads or obvious cap and didn't want to muscle it open.

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  84. The charger wheels looks gross but the steelies with Cooper cobras are spot on.

    The little things take forever and make you feel like you're getting no where but those are the things I dread and avoid...

    Worst thing that happens if you muscle it open is you break it and don't have to put it back in right? Lol. I got a bfh If you want to borrow it?
     
  85. The one with the two holes is the ignition light I think, and there is another with a slot instead of holes for the ashtray light.
    On mine the wire end pulls out of the enclosure with the metal bulb socket still on the wire end.
     
  86. Those lights are part of the Lighting Package. This includes a Map light (switch under the dash), glove box light, the lights you found, and those sexy turn signal indicators on the front fenders.
     
  87. Hmmm. Well I have the map light indicator but so far I haven't found the map light itself. I will check for the glove box light. No fender turn signals on this one, and no holes where they would be.
     
  88. Well if you find those fancy fender turn signals ill take them off your hands for you :poke:
     
  89. Sorry, none to be had in my world. Unless both fenders were changed at some point? The left fender is a 69 Dart but not a GT, there are no holes for the upper body-line trim. The right fender has holes for the trim, but nothing where the fender turn signals would go. Now I'm curious, I'll have to look at the fenders to see if there is any wiring in there.
     
  90. I think I found where the map light goes. Is it to the lower left of the steering column? I have the dash-mounted bezel for it but I don't see the switch or bulb at the moment. Does anyone have photos so I know what to look for or replace? And where does the light itself go? Also, no fender turn signals or wiring to be found on this car.

    Slow progress the last few days, but I did manage to get the fuel pump replaced. Since the car sat for 25 years I am re-doing all the fuel system, including the hard line from the pump to the carb. I got a piece of brake line to form into the new line but it wouldn't bend nice using the bender tool I had. It started to kink so I had to figure out a better way. Then I noticed this.

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    Old black line on the right, start of the new line on the left. Hmmm, I wonder how I'm going to tighten the nut down on the pump, it seems to be stuck on the back side of the bend. And how to remove the upper nut that I don't need? :wtf: Off to Napa for another one. I dug around and found my set of spring benders which worked way better. I also got a much longer line to start with so there was some leverage to work with. This stuff is pretty stiff. I only need a 20" run so that's what I got the first time around. The second try was only a dollar more for a 40" version which really helped. To hold the thing still I clamped the old pump in the vise and worked the bender while my girl provided power to make the bends. It worked like a champ. Then, of course, it was test fit, bend, test fit, bend, and so forth for quite a while getting this just right.

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    It's funny, the new line fits MUCH better but isn't all that close in shape to the old one.

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    However, success! Line is in and new hoses and filter are set.

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    One more (stupid little) thing to check off the list. After getting the fuel pump sorted out I went back under the car with the needle scaler to go after the undercoat and crud. Many thankless hours later I emerged a filthy mess but I'm down to just 24" more to go to get to the t-bar crossmember where I will quit for this part of the adventure.

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  91. Bahahaha.. yes you leave the tightening nut at the end before you start bending LOL....
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    One of these little mini pipe cutters comes in handy especially when it's already on the car.. also when it's not flared I have a tendency to put double hose clamps..
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    Great tool, used it more times than I can count...
     
  92. Might I suggest next time that you clamp the nut by its wrenching area all the way to one side of your vice with the rod sticking straight up and setting something on your advice like a spray can that's round or something that's heavy and round and bending it around the top of it... :thumbsup:...
     
  93. I thought you learned from my mistakes and knew not to make your own metal lines? :poke::lol:
    I did that a couple times with the nuts not being completely at the end and stuck behind a bend, I used my thumbs and would massage it straight enough to get the nut to pass the bend, then just bend the line back to where you want it.

    I'm done with my lines but my whole upper body is sore, if only I had bigger muscles lol. Your line looks good! What are your plans for the hose from the fuel filter to the Carb long term? I like the edelbrock hard line, helps keep the hose away from the intake which helps with heat soak/percolating... ask me how i know haha
     
  94. I just cut a piece of fuel injection 5/16 rubber line for now. It's a little too long but the filter on there at the moment is just for the first little while. With all new tank, lines, pump, etc I want to be able to see if anything is getting caught at the filter for a while. After some shake-down time I'm doing the Uncle Tony heat soak deal with a vapor line going back to the tank. At that time I'll check that hose but I suspect all I will need to do is shorten it a bit. Currently everything is well away from the intake or valve cover.
     
  95. Yea the return line to the gas tank is a good idea. I thought about doing that when I do my fuel lines from the tank as well.
     
  96. Slow progress lately, lots of labor and not much for photos of success. I finally, finally, got all the crap scraped off the bottom of the car from the t-bar crossmember to the rear bumper. Pulled the car outside where it is getting the Easy-Off treatment and a date with the pressure washer on its underbelly.

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    Once the underneath is clean and dry, it will get primered and new undercoating. That is, after I fix the spare tire well. Mine has holes in the bottom and will be replaced. I also found this, a bunch of saw cracks and a big hole under a screwed-in patch piece I removed. My buddy thinks it is where a battery disconnect was at some point. I think I have a good piece of a trunk well coming to fix this, if not I will go to the local PNP and cut a section out of something else to patch in.

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    And after the threads on cheap jack stands failing, I had a talk with my piggy bank and got these from Esco. Very nice and solid as a bank vault. Yes, they are still made in China but at their in-house owned factory under their supervision. A bit spendy but well worth it.

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  97. Those are some nice stands... i use my cheap stands usually with an extra 1 and the jack still under the car near the point where I'm at. If I'm doing something that takes longer I use my wheel cribs that I made.
     
  98. Agreed, they are nice. I got the deluxe version that has axle stirrups too. And yes, I use a big fat rim/tire for backup anyway. No sense getting squished. :eek:
     
  99. When are you going to paint it? You doing it or having it done and in what color???
     
  100. Paint is down the road a ways. Like a long ways. Both quarters and front fender dropoffs need replaced and maybe more. I suppose I could take a swing at painting it myself, we shall see how that goes. Color? Since I just bought a green interior I am somewhat committed to that but maybe not a stock color. More like emerald green.