Starting issues

[Bud27]

Ok started with all original engine except valve cover and air cleaner . The car was having electrical issues and that has been fixed . I replaced ballast had the carb rebuilt ,oil adapter was leaking had that fixed . Timing set at 10 degrees before TDC good spark . Car is now not starting right up takes about 20 seconds when cold but once it starts you just have to turn the key and she fires right up.
Could this be a fuel pump issue like I said earlier is the original Fuel Pump.

 

[TrailBeast]

Are you giving it a couple of pumps on the throttle on the cold starts?

 

[Saverio]

I started a thread today about longer cranking before the engine turns over.
Someone advised me to pushe the pedal, to the floor, 3 times. It worked for me!

Mine was cranking 10-15 times before finally turning over. By pumping the pedal it now takes 1-2 cranks.

Changed your inline fuel filter?

 

[RedFish]

The OEM tuning spec of 10 btdc was based on real gasoline. Todays fuel being what it is, The engine will start and run better with a base timing of 14 to 18 btdc

 

[Bud27]

The OEM tuning spec of 10 btdc was based on real gasoline. Todays fuel being what it is . The engine will start and run better with a base timing of 14 to 18 btdc

Redfish thanks for the info . I was told by the mechanic to pump it 3 times and it worked a couple times but it's hit and miss . I need a better percentage its for a 17 yo girl with no patients lol . I'll adjust timing and get back .
Thanks for the replies .

 

[RedFish]

My 67 273 starts and runs best at 16 btdc but... the vacuum advance is disconnected.
This is with the later model Chry' electronic ignition. 73 model cast iron dual plane intake w/ 73 2 brl on it, 73 fuel pump with its fuel line routing that places the inline filter vertically down by the water pump also. Anyway...
With that additional vacuum advance the engine would ping under hard excell'.
A modified mechanical advance inside the distributer or maybe a different vacuum servo would correct that.
Just more time and money involved to have a vacuum advance that isn't required in my opinion.
I drive a little farther and pay a little more for ethanol free fuel.
Any time , any weather, I get in a turn the key to start for 3 or 4 secs. then pedal to the floor and back once, slowly. turn the key and verrrroooom. 1 minute later just lightly tap the pedal and choke drops at least 1 step. Then I move the auto trans shifter to neutral to begin running its front pump filling torque converter.
When a following throttle tap gets all the way down to curb idle rpm shes ready to roll.
Bottom line, later model parts that were designed for lesser fuel along with minor tweaks = zero problems with start or fuel delivery all seasons.

 

[Saverio]

RedFish - Should all of our older cars be put in neutral when warming up (I always warm up, never get in and go)?
PO of my car told me I should be doing this, sounds like I got good advice...

Sorry - don't mean to hijack the thread, I'm just trying to learn!

 

[RedFish]

RedFish - Should all of our older cars be put in neutral when warming up (I always warm up, never get in and go)?
PO of my car told me I should be doing this, sounds like I got good advice...

Sorry - don't mean to hijack the thread, I'm just trying to learn!

Not necessarily. Some torque converters leak down a lot faster than others.
my 67 sits for weeks at a time so I have no doubt this converter has leaked down.

 

[Bud27]

Redfish so if I were to upgrade the ignition what parts should I look for as far as distributor and year . I also have a new Weber 38 and a two barrel motocraft rebuilt sitting in my garage for a falcon I'm building . What are your thoughts on using either one of them ? I like the motorcraft when tuned would out perform the weber and would give me more air cleaner options .

 

[RedFish]

I don't know what electronic ignition to recommend. If you're willing to install some other carb and deal with the differences in throttle and kick down linkage, set up, and so on.... You might also be interested in GM HEI, MSD, etc.. for ignition.
Everything I used came from the same 73 Valiant 318 auto w/air.