steering box adjustment

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trudysduster

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Had to put a remanufactured steering box on the Dart Sport. It needs adjusted. when you go around a sharp curve or make a turn, you have to manually bring the wheel back. It is too tight. I know the adjustment is on the top of the box where the nut and allen wrench is, I have adjusted them in the past but which way do you turn it to loosen up the steering. I forgot. so help me save some time here.Pleeaasssseeeeeeeeee. Thanks.
 
Reminds me, I really need to tighten the one in the truck.
 
Something I copied from a thread a while back when I was adjusting a manual box. I did it this way and was very happy with the results.

To properly adjust a steering box


To properly adjust a steering box you have to loosen lock nut on top of box and back out screw to relieve tension. Then loosen the large lock nut where the steering shaft from the steering wheel enters the box. Use a very larger pair of channel locks. Then tighten the inner collar where the steering wheel shaft enters the box. I use a screw driver and hammer to tap that inner collar snug. Be easy you do not want to crack it because it’s made of aluminum. Spray WD-40 on it to loosen it up. Retighten large lock nut. Now put steering wheel on center and snug up that top screw and then tighten the lock nut on the top while holding screw still. This procedure is from the Factory Service Manual. You can't just tighten up that top screw and think you are done. That is only half the adjustment of a manual box. That collar/lock nut where the steering wheel shaft goes into the box must be adjusted FIRST to get all the slack out of those bearings FIRST then you adjust the slack out of that top screw SECOND. You must have all tension off that top screw before adjusting the bearing preload via the large collar.

That should get the slack out of the box if the bearings are half decent.
 
this one is an allen screw, not a screw driver slot. But If I remember right you don't have to turn it very much to get it right do you, maybe 1/2 turn or something like that. Thanks for the CCW. I didn't remember which way.
 
Did you, by any chance, replace any other parts at the same time that the box went in?

Arite, for anyone who didn't get my smartass left question; if the wrench goes on at 12 o'clock relative to where you are standing, then left would be CCW. If the wrench handle is pointing to 6 o'clock, then left is CW. At any other clocking, I suppose up or down could get you into trouble just as easily, lol. I'll try not to be a smartie any more, I just couldn't resist.
 
nothing but the box. But had to pull the power steering pump and pitman arm to get it out. Standing at the DS fender bending over I put an allen wrench in the top of the screw and hold it while I loosen up the nut. then turn the allen wrench CCW and then lock down the nut. correct. But a little is a lot is what I am asking. If I remember right you don't have to turn the allen wrench very much to loosen up the steering. I will just back it out a 1/2 turn at a time and check it. Thanks guys.
 
A half turn may be too much.It might be ok for the first adjustment, but each subsequent one could be 1/4 turn.And probably no more than 1 turn all together,or I would suspect a poor quality rebuild.It's not hard to get that right, on the bench.
However, since we now know it's power assisted, bear in mind that air in the system will also make for poor returning. And the Federal pump is often lazy in the first place. I have found the Saginaw pump much better in every way.
 
A half turn may be too much.It might be ok for the first adjustment, but each subsequent one could be 1/4 turn.And probably no more than 1 turn all together,or I would suspect a poor quality rebuild.It's not hard to get that right, on the bench.
However, since we now know it's power assisted, bear in mind that air in the system will also make for poor returning. And the Federal pump is often lazy in the first place. I have found the Saginaw pump much better in every way.

x2. i literally did this yesterday, and i MAY have gone 1/8 turn. and that translated from probably 15-20 degrees of slop between the steering shaft and the box before the wheels turned, to nearly zero slop.
 
ok, I will be careful and watch this. I don't need to get a front end alignment again for just the steering box replacement do I. everything remained the same.
 
This is out of the FSM, hope it helps.

Adjustments
Two adjustments are provided in the steering gear
(Fig. 2). The worm bearing pre-load adjustment, and
the ball nut rack sector gear mesh adjustment.
Before the correct adjustment can be made at the
ball nut rack and the sector gear, it must be determined
that the worm bearing pre-load is properly
adjusted.
The worm bearing pre-load adjustment is controlled
by the worm thrust bearing adjuster which
threads into the housing at the upper end of the
wormshaft.
Worm Bearing Pre-load
(1) Disconnect steering gear arm from sector shaft
DIE-CAST
ALUMINUM HOUSING
BALL
BEARINGS
SECTOR SHAFT
GEAR CLEARANCE
ADJUSTING SCREW
WORM SHAFT
RECIRCULATINGBALL
NUT
SECTOR SHAFT
with Tool C-4150 (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove horn pad.
(3) Loosen sector shaft adjusting screw lock nut,
and back out adjusting screw approximately two
turns. This will relieve any friction load which may be
present at the closely meshed ball nut rack and sector
gear teeth.
(4) Turn steering wheel two complete turns from
straight ahead position, and place torque wrench Tool
C-3380 on steering shaft nut.
(5) Rotate steering shaft at least one turn toward
straight ahead position, while testing rotating torque
with torque wrench.
FILLER PLUG
SECTOR SHAFT
ADJUSTMENT
PD24A
WORM SHAFT
BEARING
ADJUSTMENT
NK462A
Fig. I —Steering Gear Cross Section Fig. 2—Gear Adjustment Locations
MyMopar.com
MANUAL—STEERING 19-3
steering arm on sector shaft.
(5) Tighten steering arm
foot-pounds.
retaining nut to 175
 
ok, I will be careful and watch this. I don't need to get a front end alignment again for just the steering box replacement do I. everything remained the same.

The alignment won't change, but steering wheel center may be off....
 
1/8 to 1/4 turn increments are a good start for tightening them up, same for backing them off. I have never had to loosen one up, always just about an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn tighter to take most of the slop out of a decent unit.
 
Ok so I’m going to get this post going again! Lol
I have a half turn of play in my steering wheel. It seems to be in the steering box. I followed this thread and did what is recommended, but I can do a full turn on the Allen Key nut and there is no difference at all with the amount of play in the wheel??? Any ideas??
 
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