Separate names with a comma.
We're not talkin about me. or Vixen. Lets try to keep this on track.
Okay now I understand everybody's willing to spend my money via the internet that but not their own... Just the same reason I would say the OP needs to invest in a clutch tamer for $200 that he can adjust while sitting in the driver's seat instead of a soft lock clutch that has to be adjusted by crawling underneath the car and way way more expensive but I'm not into spending people's money via the internet...
OK. I'll try to help. As much as I like and respect my ratty bastid friend, I'm a HUGE fan of the 002 and 003 SS springs. But get someone else's version, NOT Mopar Performance. Theirs were made in Mexico last I knew and had at LEAST one bad batch of spring steel. I don't trust them anymore. Mancini, General Spring or ESPO can fix you up. Also, normally, I'm no huge fan of a pinion snubber, BUT in the case of manual transmissions, they can be useful. But the ratty bastid makes some solid points with the Assassin bars. That's certainly one way to do it and it'll work. Keep this in mind. There are cars runnin as quick as high sevens (that's QUARTER mile times) with SS or equivalent leaf springs, so leaf springs DO work. Over and out. Oh one more thing. I'm not familiar with the clutch tamer anymore than enough to see they can work well. I think what they do is make the clutch hit softer so as not to shock the suspension and lose so much traction. The end answer is there's no real right or wrong way, just different ways to accomplish the same goal. I tell you what I would do if I were you. Go to the strip and see what manual transmission guys are doing successfully with cars similar to yours BEFORE you spend any money. You might learn a lot.
Yup very true. How's my response above? Does that work? I apologize for gettin sucked in. I'm tryin not to.
Hello guys and thanks for all the help. I'm running a Centerforce Dual friction clutch. The ET Streets are the SS not the R, I have heard the R is a better choice. I think I will go back to the DOT Hoosiers, had an old set from 10 years ago that I ran one weekend and they seemed better, they are in very poor condition so I tossed them and I had bought the ET's already. What are your thoughts on replacing the shackles for sliders, do they work better? Thanks again guys, appreciate all the help
You’ve made it abundantly clear that YOU don’t want any of your duster with nitrous either. I’m convinced you put it on there just to take pictures of the purge with the fancy LED lights in it.
Yes, do the sliders. Then reread my post very close. I wasn’t bullshitting.
You want a time slip so bad, I’ll give you one to frame for your car. Sounds simple to me. What’s obvious is you are scared. You don’t want me to outdrive you in your own car. I could tell you a story about that but you have me on ignore, remember??
True THAT. I’ll drive the wheels offin’ that hoopty.
It’s not so much that I’m against the SS springs and snubbers, I just want as much of the chassis to be as adjustable as I can get. Especially with a clutch car. DAMN…I forgot the tell the OP that he NEEDS a two step. That’s also nonnegotiable too. You just MUST have some way to control lunch RPM from run to run to run. Plus, it’s another tuning tool. Moving the RPM up and down changes the hit the tire sees at the hit. You can do a ton with two step RPM and it’s the quickest, easiest adjustment there is.
Thanks and yes I do have a 2 step MSD. Thanks again for the advise.
The R is a much better tire especially for a stick car. That's the thing about running a stick car with drag raidals is you cannot afford to have one component that may be a weak link or it will bite you in the ass. I like your idea of going to a hoosier quick time pro, my thought is you don't have a big enough tire to have good success with a drag radial. Fwiw I am building a stick/drag radial car and I threw the kitchen sink at it lol. I ended up with a 295/65/15 et street R to try to get the most traction, we will be finding out how well it does in a couple weeks.
Video or it did not happen…
Bring the duster up!
If it's so easy why haven't you been able to produce a time slip the entire 10 years you've been on this forum?... I've challenged you to come out to the track for probably 6 years now and you even had a thread challenging me but yet you failed to show up lol... The story so old the whole forums tired of hearing it... And now you want to challenge me with my own car!?... How utterly laughable... You and no other internet hero are ever going to get one foot inside my car... When the OP reads the link to the clutch tamer that I left he'll have all he needs to know and he'll have the phone number of someone who actually races with it and uses nitrous lol....
You know I want to, and we both know it’s not a drag car, but I bet you a root beer it’s in the mid / low 12’s…
Sounds like you have the tools to get the job did!
And let’s be clear. Your broke ass couldn’t make it. You didnt have the money. That’s the problem with these forums. The posers, liars and morons get the say. I thought I was on ignore? Do you do anything you say you do?
I'm not quite sure what is wrong with your comprehension? I said I took you off ignore about 15 posts ago or it may have been another thread... Because when I unlock a thread there you are following me around trying to make a comment... Go ahead and repeat that I'm a liar three times that way people will start believing you... Okay have it your way back on ignore... Mama said the more you roll with the turd the stinkier you get...
Put another leaf under the main. Clamp the front, no clamps on the rear. That will drive the tire into the track right to china.
Thanks everyone for all the help and advice, greatly appreciated. Thanks
In my opinion the typical stick shift guy needs to focus first on getting the clutch in the ballpark before moving on to chassis and shock adjustments. Proper clutch management allows the engine to operate up where it makes power, while at the same time smoothing out potentially chassis upsetting torque spikes during launch and after the shifts. Engine makes more power, less peak impact on the drivetrain, car ends up quicker overall. Also, the better managed your clutch is, the easier your chassis will be to dial in. Less likely you will need to spend $$ on double adjustable shocks as well. That's a win/win/win/win/win, also likely you will be able to keep the radials! The ClutchTamer can do all that for you. I think the most important part in your case would be the reduced wear/tear on your kinda rare 855/5spd. Grant