STIFF SPRING

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WAYNE0

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The spring that goes from the clutch fork to the bell housing has anyone put in a stiffer spring ? The one that came with my clutch kit does seam to be very stiff. It makes the pedal to soft for me. My clutch is the diaphragm type & i dont like the feel of the pedal & i was told that thats the way they feel.
 
The spring that goes from the clutch fork to the bell housing has anyone put in a stiffer spring ? The one that came with my clutch kit does seam to be very stiff. It makes the pedal to soft for me. My clutch is the diaphragm type & i dont like the feel of the pedal & i was told that thats the way they feel.
Was the over center spring removed?
I left mine in with my dual friction center force diaphragm style...so I 'feel' the clutch.
Others like the weak pedal...not me, like damn.. it's not for thr wife to drive...
 
Was the over center spring removed?
I left mine in with my dual friction center force diaphragm style...so I 'feel' the clutch.
Others like the weak pedal...not me, like damn.. it's not for thr wife to drive...
yea i removed mine for two reasons my mom would like to drive it & it made the clutch pedal sit way above the brake pedal im talking 3-4 inches
 
The spring that goes from the clutch fork to the bell housing doesn't make the pedal stiffer, it returns the pedal to the top. That's why it's not some super stiff spring.

For a diaphragm clutch the overcenter spring on the pedal itself should be removed, because it can cause the pedal to stick at the floor when the pedal is fully depressed and there's no need for it with the action on a diaphragm clutch. And with a diaphragm clutch the feel is definitely different than with a borg&beck.
 
The spring that goes from the clutch fork to the bell housing doesn't make the pedal stiffer, it returns the pedal to the top. That's why it's not some super stiff spring.

For a diaphragm clutch the overcenter spring on the pedal itself should be removed, because it can cause the pedal to stick at the floor when the pedal is fully depressed and there's no need for it with the action on a diaphragm clutch. And with a diaphragm clutch the feel is definitely different than with a borg&beck.
yes it is This is my first one It feels as if there is nothing there I dont think my pedal is returning all the way but then again im not use to this type of clutch. It feels like i have to push it almost to the floor
 
What all has been done to the car? I take it the clutch itself was changed, has it been adjusted at all? What clutch was installed?
 
What all has been done to the car? I take it the clutch itself was changed, has it been adjusted at all? What clutch was installed?
i bought a Mcloud clutch kit it came with clutch, disk, throwout bearing, return spring. I was told i could adjust it like the old 3 finger style clutch. RMS rear suspension, 360 397 ci rebuilt 4spd trany 391 gears disk brakes all 4 corners 17 inch rims new power steering manual brakes just to name a few things
 
Well you can set the adjustment just like you could with a 3 finger style clutch, but those two clutches will never feel anything alike. It's a completely different pedal effort.
 
The spring that goes from the clutch fork to the bell housing doesn't make the pedal stiffer, it returns the pedal to the top. That's why it's not some super stiff spring.

For a diaphragm clutch the overcenter spring on the pedal itself should be removed, because it can cause the pedal to stick at the floor when the pedal is fully depressed and there's no need for it with the action on a diaphragm clutch. And with a diaphragm clutch the feel is definitely different than with a borg&beck.
Would You Leave the O/C Spring In for a Borg&Beck then?
 
yea i removed mine for two reasons my mom would like to drive it & it made the clutch pedal sit way above the brake pedal im talking 3-4 inches
Might be something wrong with either A. The master/pushrod or B. no stop on the clutch pedal . I do not have that issue at all.
My issue was bending and breaking the stock pivot brackets with the Lakewood bell. The mount pad doesnt support the entire base of the bracket..so it cracks at the bend. Made one with 1/4 steel. Almost 20 yrs later..still groovin.
 
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Would You Leave the O/C Spring In for a Borg&Beck then?

Yessir, B&B needs the overcenter spring unless you've gone hydraulic. Only reason to remove it is for a diaphragm style clutch or if you've converted to hydraulic.
 
Well you can set the adjustment just like you could with a 3 finger style clutch, but those two clutches will never feel anything alike. It's a completely different pedal effort.
yea thats what ive been told by a few friends that have that style clutch they said that i will love it all i have to do is get u joints & u joint straps then ill find out
 
Might be something wrong with either A. The master/pushrod or B. no stop on the clutch pedal . I do not have that issue at all.
My issue was bending and breaking the stick pivot brackets with the Lakewood bell. The mount pad doesnt support the entire base of the bracket..so it cracks at the bend. Made one with 1/4 steel. Almost 20 yrs later..still groovin.
with the pedal spring removed the clutch sits about 1/2 below the brake pedal then when you push it with about an 1/2 play its not to far from the floor wish i could post a video kind of hard to explain the pedal travel & feel
 
with the pedal spring removed the clutch sits about 1/2 below the brake pedal then when you push it with about an 1/2 play its not to far from the floor wish i could post a video kind of hard to explain the pedal travel & feel
Forgot to mention... I cut and welded in some rod to extend the fork rod. It 'the pedal' was also too low. I wanna say about a fat inch +.
I didn't have anyone to ask back then, no forum... no "gurus"... I just went to town where I could to make it work... and it's great.
 
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