Still bubbling out overflow after changing water pump, thermostat, radiator,hoses??

-
Originalowner73 340duster

Originalowner73 340duster

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
514
Reaction score
52
Location
New York
WTF....I flushed motor..new water pump and thermostat and radiator and cap and hoses..and it's bubbling out overflow..not even warmed up..but radiator was hot,,..ran with radiator cap off after it fully cooled and within a minute it was pulse pissing out of the top..what is going on?? Never had problem like this??
 
What was the reason for the parts replacements?
 
1B67F546-320F-4F3B-B029-9E28F54CEEBB.png

This will tell you if engine needs to come apart.have one and it is 100% reliable.
 
Tooljunkie said:
View attachment 1715137384
This will tell you if engine needs to come apart.have one and it is 100% reliable.
Click to expand...
Motor only has 20k on it..Everything was fine when I put in garage 20 yrs ago.. cleaned gastank ,oil,etc,,started up running strong like it always did and started spitting out the overflow nipple which was broke so I brought to radiator shop to have it boiled and he said it needed a new core .it was cheaper to do after market so I did..figured while I was in their I would r&r water pump hoses and thermostat.now still coming out of over flow not even few min of starting..oil looks very clean and no exhaust fumes or discoloration of coolant?? Very confused
 
So how long have you had it running?
It needs to run long enough for thermostat to open. Heater core hoses should be close to same temperature if its flowing correctly.
Aparrently the best filling method is by using an airlift vacuum fill device.
It has an overflow tank?
Then fill rad,make sure tank is to proper level and run it up to operating temp. Let it cool,check level. Rinse and repeat.
 
No overflow, coolant should be 1” below filler neck.
 
So it was doing this before replacing parts but after sitting for 20 years.

You see where I'm going here. Same problem with old parts as new parts, so most likely not new parts or radiator fill issue.

My bet is that after sitting for 20 years, it has an issue with head gasket or metal has been eaten away allowing compression pressure to enter the cooling system.
 
Did it sit for 20 with no coolant in it?
 
Originalowner73 340duster said:
Motor only has 20k on it..Everything was fine when I put in garage 20 yrs ago.. cleaned gastank ,oil,etc,,started up running strong like it always did and started spitting out the overflow nipple which was broke so I brought to radiator shop to have it boiled and he said it needed a new core .it was cheaper to do after market so I did..figured while I was in their I would r&r water pump hoses and thermostat.now still coming out of over flow not even few min of starting..oil looks very clean and no exhaust fumes or discoloration of coolant?? Very confused
Click to expand...
I ran with cap off to make sure no air in system that's when I saw it was flowing out of top
Tooljunkie said:
Did it sit for 20 with no coolant in it?
Click to expand...
Tooljunkie said:
Did it sit for 20 with no coolant in it?
Click to expand...
Had coolant in it while it was sitting....ports looked clean when changing water pump.motor runs fine ..
 
Dana67Dart said:
So it was doing this before replacing parts but after sitting for 20 years.

You see where I'm going here. Same problem with old parts as new parts, so most likely not new parts or radiator fill issue.

My bet is that after sitting for 20 years, it has an issue with head gasket or metal has been eaten away allowing compression pressure to enter the cooling system.
Click to expand...
 
Would a head gasket blow from sitting in garage?? In a fresh rebuilt motor with low miles?? I've had bikes sit longer and run fine ..I'm a motorcycle tech..but not sure if I got lucky with it or what that's why I'm asking..and it wasn't outside..it was in climate controlled garage whole time
 
What is the longest you let it run in its current condition? full operating temp?

As Tooljunkie pointed out maybe you just have air in the system because the thermostat has not opened up and allowed full circulation?

Tooljunkie said:
It needs to run long enough for thermostat to open.
Click to expand...
 
Dana67Dart said:
What is the longest you let it run in its current condition? full operating temp?

As Tooljunkie pointed out maybe you just have air in the system because the thermostat has not opened up and allowed full circulation?
Click to expand...
Let in run first time I did all parts..had cap off car raised and reeved motor and filled turned heat on and ran till got warm and noticed it started pissing out of over flow..so I shut it down ..let it cool then refilled and ran with cap off and noticed it was flowing up and down in radiator abd was coming out
 
Airlock. Crappy rad cap.combination of both.
Lower car.
 
Did you actually test the thermostat in a pan of boiling water and see if it opens.
A few years ago I had to go thru several new ones to actually find one that works.
Also drill a small 1/8 hole in the exterior of the thermostat to allow air to escape.
 
Air expanding,will push coolant.
Especially if water pump was off. Lots of places to trap air.
 
sireland67 said:
Did you actually test the thermostat in a pan of boiling water and see if it opens.
A few years ago I had to go thru several new ones to actually find one that works.
Also drill a small 1/8 hole in the exterior of the thermostat to allow air to escape.
Click to expand...
No did not test thermostat..
 
Drilling the 1/8” hole will purge air and wont affect anything except warranty.
 
I start them with cap off, but warm up with cap on.
Reason is, the button on bottom of rad cap lets air out,and coolant in. While engine is revving,or rpms climbing it draws coolant in,at idle lets air out. Until air is gone.
I hold 1500-3000 depending on engine. Idle /rev idle/rev. Until i see thermostat open and temp stabilizes.
 
Tooljunkie said:
No overflow, coolant should be 1” below filler neck.
Click to expand...
As Tooljunky pointed out if you run without an overflow (or for that matter a cap on) the level in the rad would need to be lower because as the coolant heats up it expands and will flow out. most cars with overflow bottle can have a 2-4 inch rise in the fluid level in the overflow bottle between cold and hot.

I'm starting to think there is nothing wrong. Fill it up, put the cap on, let it run till the temp gauge shows normal, let it cool and recheck the fluid levels. Listen for boiling after it is shut off to cool.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top