Still bubbling out overflow after changing water pump, thermostat, radiator,hoses??

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The boiling after shut off bothers me.

Any chance you got a water pump for a serpenteen belt drive engine? Back in the day ford 289 / 302s had a vbelt drive that rotated the water pump in the same direction as the crank, the serpenteen drive 302 had a water pump that ran in the opposite direction. both would bolt up to the same front cover
 
I run my 340 with the rad full to the top and an overflow tank half full. Engine gets to temp and overflow tank level rises about an inch when it cools the fluid is sucked back into the rad. Always full. Put air into each cylinder with the valves closed one at a time and watch for bubbles in the rad. Head gasket or cracked.
 
When out and chked again and it sucked the overflow dry.
How much coolant would you estimate overflowed or you removed from the overflow tank? If it was a cup or two and the engine sucked in an entire overflow bottle of coolant I suspect you have air in the system still. Keep heating and cooling, filling the overflow.
 
How much coolant would you estimate overflowed or you removed from the overflow tank? If it was a cup or two and the engine sucked in an entire overflow bottle of coolant I suspect you have air in the system still. Keep heating and cooling, filling the overflow.
Ya only little I spilled out..but sucked the whole thing down after started cooling
 
You guys are getting 2 cooling systems crossed up.
One is the regular or standard cooling system, the second is a"closed cooling system".
Do not get the two confused. Our older cars ran a standard cooling system, while newer cars run a closed system. You can Google the differences between the two.
After looking in my Factory Service manual, something everyone should have, or something close, the standard cooling system should have the coolant, 1 1/4" below the filler neck when the car is cold.
 
The boiling after shut off bothers me.

Any chance you got a water pump for a serpenteen belt drive engine? Back in the day ford 289 / 302s had a vbelt drive that rotated the water pump in the same direction as the crank, the serpenteen drive 302 had a water pump that ran in the opposite direction. both would bolt up to the same front cover
I've thought of that..it rotate clockwise but not sure if fins are it right direction??
 
I'll try it ..but would that make it bubble in the hoses after shutdown?
Low pressure cap, air in the system, head gasket issue, (reaching here) too thin cylinder walls,

I recall that running too lean can cause excess heat not sure if it would cause overheating issues
 
What kind of gunk came out when you flushed the system?
 
The boiling after shut off bothers me.

Any chance you got a water pump for a serpenteen belt drive engine? Back in the day ford 289 / 302s had a vbelt drive that rotated the water pump in the same direction as the crank, the serpenteen drive 302 had a water pump that ran in the opposite direction. both would bolt up to the same front cover
I also looked at AutoZone at their water pumps and it looks exactly like the one I got same housing..would the other one that spun other way have a different housing??
 
Ya only little I spilled out..but sucked the whole thing down after started cooling
When out and chked again and it sucked the overflow dry..am I missing something here..... something obvious and dumb..am I brain farting!!?!?
No brian farting. The system has to much coolent in it. The cap holds 16lbs. of pressure and the coolant finds a way out. Through the cap, down the tube, into the resivor that is designed to catch the overflow. Once the engine and coolant cool down, it condenses creating a vacuum inside the engine which pulls the extra coolent in the tank back in.
To me, it sounds like it is working as intended.

FWIW, to much timing and/or a lean running carb will introduce more heat than normal and cause an issue. So... how is your timing? Good cap, rotor, coil, wires and plugs? Carb running to lean/rich? Old fuel?

Yes..I used prestone 50/50..
Expensive but correctly mixed with heavy water, a detail missed or not cared about.
 
The system has to much coolent in it.

Not over filled, I would agree if the system overflowed more than it sucked back in.

Ya only little I spilled out..but sucked the whole thing down after started cooling

Assuming the recovery bottle was 1/2 full and holds 1 qt. it overflowed a cup or two meaning it overflowed 1/2 qt plus 1-2 cups and sucked back 1 qt. that means there was about 1/2 qt of air in the system.
 
No brian farting. The system has to much coolent in it. The cap holds 16lbs. of pressure and the coolant finds a way out. Through the cap, down the tube, into the resivor that is designed to catch the overflow. Once the engine and coolant cool down, it condenses creating a vacuum inside the engine which pulls the extra coolent in the tank back in.
To me, it sounds like it is working as intended.

FWIW, to much timing and/or a lean running carb will introduce more heat than normal and cause an issue. So... how is your timing? Good cap, rotor, coil, wires and plugs? Carb running to lean/rich? Old fuel?

Expensive but correctly mixed with heavy water, a detail missed or not cared about.
Ok m going to try some things out tomorrow and see..but still confused about the bubbling of the hoses after I shut off..guess we will have to see if I get it tomorrow
 
Not over filled, I would agree if the system overflowed more than it sucked back in.
It def bubbled into the overflow for a bit when first started..so def had some air ..going to do it again tomorrow and make sure it's out and see if it bubbles the hoses again after I shut it off..?


Assuming the recovery bottle was 1/2 full and holds 1 qt. it overflowed a cup or two meaning it overflowed 1/2 qt plus 1-2 cups and sucked back 1 qt. that means there was about 1/2 qt of air in the system.
 
Bubbling is heat soak, and air pockets need to purge.
 
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