Stock 318 2 Barrel Cam Choice

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Why would anyone want Hydraulic Lifters anymore with the way Quality Issues are now?
I have Stock Solid Lifters in my 273 and can't see any reason to upgrade, Is there one?
 
Why would anyone want Hydraulic Lifters anymore with the way Quality Issues are now?
I have Stock Solid Lifters in my 273 and can't see any reason to upgrade, Is there one?
Other than cam choice (or lack of mild cams) and the extra expense of 273 rockers, shafts and pushrods. :poke::poke::lol:
 
Other than cam choice (or lack of mild cams) and the extra expense of 273 rockers, shafts and pushrods. :poke::poke::lol:
yeah, i want a solid roller, but there is no way i can afford adjustable rockers and solid lifters. am i worried about the break in and the lifters leaking down constantly? yes.
 
I think You'll be in great shape with that one. I disagreed with another members post to leave the stock cam in because the 1st 318 I put in with that cam I had spun a rod brg., drove it a month like that......lol! Then that '74 unit came up. I swapped engines and only the carb & intake, then took it for a spin, holy crap it was such a freakin' dog!!! I couldn't turn around fast enough to get back Home & swap that cam in, did it, & the world was right again!!
 
I remember now......Comp discontinued the DEH grinds.

If you don't get the one off ebay, get this instead.
DODGE COMP Cams 20-309-4 COMP Cams Magnum Muscle Camshafts | Summit Racing
It's got real Mopar lobes. This is Comp's version of the 340 cam, which, under normal circumstances, would be too big. But they ground it on a 110 instead of a 114, which will kick cylinder pressure up some. That'll be a good one and you'll have a nice noticeable idle and it'll pull strong.
 
What I would be worried about with any of these cheap cam & lifters sets is: what part of China are the lifters made in????

While the cam quality/metallurgy is important, the lifters are probably more important...if you want the warranty to last past sunset.
 
What I would be worried about with any of these cheap cam & lifters sets is: what part of China are the lifters made in????

While the cam quality/metallurgy is important, the lifters are probably more important...if you want the warranty to last past sunset.
That's why we're trying to urge him to buy individual pieces. Hopefully he can find some quality lifters. I think Crower and Isky might still be good.
 
yeah, i want a solid roller, but there is no way i can afford adjustable rockers and solid lifters. am i worried about the break in and the lifters leaking down constantly? yes.
Here's a 265DEH in a 318. I think it needs a little more timing and it would have more lope and less chop.
 
Here's a 318 with a Hughes Whiplash cam. Love that rolling lope sound.

 
That's why we're trying to urge him to buy individual pieces. Hopefully he can find some quality lifters. I think Crower and Isky might still be good.
OK, I'll look at crower, I think my local speed shop has some old NOS lifters from the 80's, forgot what brand.
 
also about a stack of cams about 3 feet tall, I will look for some old DEH grinds.
If you want a cam in a engine that runs like the video's I posted, Go with a DEH or something similar. They are right on the ragged edge of using a stock converter, manifolds with duals and would benefit with a 3.23 gear at least. THat's why there have been suggestions to use a stock cam or like a stock 360 cam. I still have a 318 2 barrel with dual exhaust in my Swinger. I have a 4 barrel and intake that could go on next. If I ad a cam I will go with 340 manifolds. (not messing with headers) But talking about cams, the DEH grind is more than I really want. It's a nice car and I don't really want to turn it into a hot rod. ANother thing to think about, a cam install is a fun project but it is a lot of work especially if you aren't going much more than a stock grind. Might as well leave the factory cam in there unless you need to swap it out because of a flat lobe or the like. A "little more performance" really isn't worth the extra work and money spent.
 
If you want a cam in a engine that runs like the video's I posted, Go with a DEH or something similar. They are right on the ragged edge of using a stock converter, manifolds with duals and would benefit with a 3.23 gear at least. THat's why there have been suggestions to use a stock cam or like a stock 360 cam. I still have a 318 2 barrel with dual exhaust in my Swinger. I have a 4 barrel and intake that could go on next. If I ad a cam I will go with 340 manifolds. (not messing with headers) But talking about cams, the DEH grind is more than I really want. It's a nice car and I don't really want to turn it into a hot rod. ANother thing to think about, a cam install is a fun project but it is a lot of work especially if you aren't going much more than a stock grind. Might as well leave the factory cam in there unless you need to swap it out because of a flat lobe or the like. A "little more performance" really isn't worth the extra work and money spent.
Well the plan is to start it up outside of the car just to see how well it runs and if a cam swap is worth it. If it turns out to be a strong runner, I might leave it until I find some J or X heads for it. But if something is wrong like a flat lobe, then I will swap the cam and intake and springs.
 
BTW, the '17 Ecoboost 2.3 'Stang runs 13.50 in the quarter @99 mph........not so shitty......
 
BTW, the '17 Ecoboost 2.3 'Stang runs 13.50 in the quarter @99 mph........not so shitty......
PUKEPOOP.jpg
 
What do you all think of this cam? Since I have no other choice but to run the 1.5 adjustable rockers I found (since I broke the stock rocker studs) I can now use a solid flat tappet instead of a hydraulic flat tappet. Along with some hardenable Isky solid lifters I found.
DODGE COMP Cams 20-246-4 COMP Cams Magnum Solid Camshafts | Summit Racing
I'l endorse that all day long. Remember, when comparing a solid to a hydraulic of the same size, the solid will "act" about 10 degrees of duration less than the hydraulic, so that cam will be "about" the same as 214@ .050 in a hydraulic. I think that's a good choice.
 
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