stock 383 ET numbers?

Big Block A body Tech

  1. titanium

    titanium Well-Known Member

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    Just seeing what any one has run for 1/4 mile times with their stock 383 cars. I I see in some old articles that the biggest complaint was lack of traction,resrictive exh. manifolds and it was nose heavy.Times listed were in the 14.0 to mid 14's range.
    With that being said I'm rebuilding it a little better then stock(.30 over,slightly better compression, and a better flowing exhaust).Carb,intake,heads & exh. manifolds will stay stock. I think most were delivered with 3:23 gears too. I will be running 3:55's. I'm in the process of collecting some parts to build one and just curious as to what I should expect it will run.
    Thanks
     
  2. Bill Dedman

    Bill Dedman bill dedman Legendary Member

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    I worked as a tech person at several drag strips bAck in the 1965-1969 period and ran the clocks a lot of the time, so I got to see first-hand, what the cars were turning. I paid attention.

    These cars I'm listing were BONE STOCK with street tires... NO SLICKS and were traction-limited to a large extent because of that.

    383 Non-Magnum 1965 Dodge Cornet, 1 4-bbl... 15.6

    383 Magnum (335 hp) 1968 Road Runner/Super Bee automatic/3.23 gears 14.8

    340 1970 Dart/Duster automatic 3.23 gears... 14.50

    1966 Hemi Dodge Cornet 2 X 4bbl 13.7 severely traction limited

    1969 6-pack Road Runner 440 automatic 13.6 dunno the gearing but it outran the Hemis, consistently, PURE STOCK

    235 hp '65 Barracuda 273 automatic, 3.23 gears, 16.00

    1962 VALIANT, Hyper-Pack 225 Slant 6 3-on-the tree, stick, with 3.55 gears, 15.00

    Plymouth B-body, 426 wedge (street version; 1-4bbl) 3.23 gears 14.40

    Remember, these cars were PURE STOCK with street tires,,, OEM rubber and could not launch. That slowed them down a bunch...

    The guy with the street Hemi just about wore it out trying to outrun that 440 Six Pack Road Runner, but never got it done!

    With slicks, headers and some gears, it would have probably been a different story...

    I ran those clocks for a couple of years, and saw a lot of stock cars run... and remembered the pecking order. This list is pretty accurate; elevation- 800 feet.

    Hope this helps.... but without slicks and gears, they're all
    S-L-O-W....
     
  3. Bill Dedman

    Bill Dedman bill dedman Legendary Member

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    Bet your car will run at worst, a 13.90...

    IF it can get a bite...

    Good luck; tires are a lot better, now....
     
  4. 66dartman

    66dartman Well-Known Member

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    Up at my local track which is 5800', one of the guys has a bone stock 69 383 Dart that is a survivor and it runs 14.99. Take a little off for a lower altitude track and 14.0-13.99 makes sense.
     
  5. mcodecuda

    mcodecuda Senior Member

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    My M-Code 440 cuda runs 12.64. I'ts a 20 over 440 with the Mopar Performance 284-484 cam, stock intake, stock AVS, 3:55 gears but with TTI headers.
     
  6. titanium

    titanium Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the replies guys. My goal is 13.7 maybe 13.5 but maybe that is really hopeful. What is the weight difference from a 340 to a 383?
     
  7. titanium

    titanium Well-Known Member

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    Just curious but have you ran your car with the stock manifolds? If you did what was the time with them?
     
  8. BBBCUDA

    BBBCUDA Well-Known Member

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    A stock, 60,000 mile 1965 383 2 bbl engine (270 Hp rated), 516 heads and all, small log mainifolds, with just a factory Holley pattern iron 4 bbl. intake added, ran 14's at 94 Mph in my 4 door '72 Valiant with 2.76 gears. (crossed the line in second gear). 13's with a real HP 383 and any kind of traction shouldn't be a problem.
     
  9. efriedrich

    efriedrich 69 383S

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    My 69 383s Barracuda 4spd 3.91 ran a best of 14.30 the one time I had it at the track. That was with the iron exhaust manifolds, original carburetor iron intake, ect. and NO traction. This was the original numbers matching motor and had around 50,000 miles on it at the time.
     
  10. titanium

    titanium Well-Known Member

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    More then a few have mentioned traction as a problem so I will ask what is the best way for me to set up to get better traction? Pure stock rules require to keep the stock wheel size(14 inch) and you are allowed to go up one width size.I currently have 215's on there now. I asked in on earlier post but what does the big block weight add to the car?
    Thanks
     
  11. BBBCUDA

    BBBCUDA Well-Known Member

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    I would say 125-150# over a small block car. Trans weighs the same,. same for the axle. The extra weight isn't positioned very advantageously for traction though. Are slicks allowed? Drag radials?
     
  12. rumblefish360

    rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away FABO Gold Member

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    Like Bill said, there all slow and tested via the mag's of the day in street trim. This also included for the most part average gear set of 3.23 - 3.55 and sledomly the 3.91 -4.10 sets.

    The stock engines were powerful as delivered for what they were back in the day of course and could do very well with the basic mods of the day. Traction being the biggest issue and breathing second. In and out of the engine was na issue in most cases.

    The 383 can use a bigger carb. Normaly the came with a 630 cfm Carter AVS or 600 AFB. The 750 AVS is a very nice improvment. A RPM intake is excellent for it as well.

    Headers are very important for exhailing the gas's. Hp exhaust manifolds can be preety good, but, alot depends on cam selection. Single pattern cams are not the best with stock heads and manifolds, but do fine with well prep'ds and ported heads and headers.

    This brings to mind now that I'm typing it, Comp has a line of cams designed for exhaust manifold cars.

    Anyways, it is possible to get your stock engine into the 13's with the right combo of equipment, if your willing to make that move to higher performance parts. Gears, converter, headers, intake, carb, etc.....
    The right cam could have you in the 12's easy. But buy this time, it's far removed from the ultra street family/freindly car that you got as stock.
     
  13. mcodecuda

    mcodecuda Senior Member

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    I've got a set but I haven't tried them yet.
     
  14. Bill Dedman

    Bill Dedman bill dedman Legendary Member

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    A 904 transmission is somewhat lighter than a 727.
    They never made a 904 that would bolt up to a BB or RB that I know of.
    Most small blocks had 904's except for early 340s.
     
  15. 273-Typo

    273-Typo Member

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    Hot Rod article Sept. 1966 on a 67 383 Formula S with 3:23 rear ran 0-60 in 7.2 sec. the 1/4 in 15.15 no mph given, that was bone stock. I've got a .30 over with ported 915 heads and a .528 solid lifter cam TTI's 3000 stall converter and with 3.23 ran a best of 13.26 with a best 60 foot time of 2.18 mostly 2.2 That is unloading the trunk adjusting tire pressure and loosing sway bar and out on the track so basically street trim. BFG 265/50 15 radial T/A's on the back. I've got the right pieces just need to work on the 60 foot and high 12's should not be a problem. Spend the money once and build it right you'll be happier in the end..Good Luck
     
  16. Longgone

    Longgone John/68 Barracuda & Dart

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    I had a 383 GTS with an A/T in the 70`s, bone stock with the exception of a 3.55 sure-grip. It ran consistently in the mid 14`s with street tires.
     
  17. Mr Hemi

    Mr Hemi Well-Known Member

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    My stock 67 Dart 383 auto 3.23 street tires open exhaust Best 14.0 100MPH
     
  18. Darter6

    Darter6 Well-Known Member

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    Remember that tracks today spray compound on the surface, something we didn't have back in the 60's thru 70's. Bite should be better .
     
  19. 1 Bad Duster

    1 Bad Duster Pro Street Duster

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    I'am gonna say 14.7-14.9s
     
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