Stock Fuel Pump

Discussion in 'Fuel and Air Systems' started by dICKj, Oct 12, 2018.

  1. dICKj

    dICKj Member

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    I'm just trying to get my newly acquired 1974 318 Duster running and driving. I'm having fuel delivery problems. I don't know what previous owners may have done to this car, but I notice what looks like a disconnected second fuel line sticking up near the frame just behind the stock fuel pump. Did the 74 come with a double line system and somebody put an earlier pump on it? Since I don't care about all the old smog junk, is a second line needed? I might just cut the fuel feed line back by the tank and stick an electric pump in there. DickJ\

    Yep the same DickJ that has been having problems getting the motor to come off idle without stalling. No spurts from the accelorator pump. With a little help from a can of starting fluid, I can get it to take throttle, but it gets real flat the higher the RPM go.
     
  2. krazykuda

    krazykuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    The accelerator pumps on those carters are leather and they ride on cast iron and wear quickly... A weak point in that carb is the accelerator pump... Replace with an accelerator pump from a rebuild kit...
     
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    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      Could be a vapor return or could be a vent line for some version of the 'vapor saver' system. Look in the service manual for your year. You can also review the return line and vapor saver info in the TSBs and Master Tech series.

      Don't install an electric fuel pump. It's not needed, and doesn't play well with original circuit design. The carburetor bowl simply needs to be full, not pressurized. I've run enough fuel to a carb on v-8 to drive it around using gravity feed from a gas can.
       
    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      I just looked at your other thread.
      No pump shot is something with the accelerator pump.
      You need to take the carb off, clean the bowl and passages and 'rebuild' it. All that means is replacing any worn items. Its probably just what Krazykuda post above. It's not that hard. Should be some threads with pictures - if not, start one. I know Alaskan T/A just started a thread on 2 bbl car but I forget which one. Basics are all similar. Settings are in the Service Manual. More info with tips and how all the circuits work can be found in the Master Tech series from Chrysler. 1970 is a good one to start with for that. Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
       
    • dICKj

      dICKj Member

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      I know that carbs can be bad out of the box, but I was hoping. This rebuilt carb has been on the car for enough time to get it on the trailer. I guess I'll pull it off and open it up. DickJ
       
    • Mattax

      Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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      Once you've worked on it on the bench, eventually you may feel more comfortable opening the top on the engine to check for things. The pump may get its fuel from the bottom of the bowl, but that varies from carb to carb. That's why as long as there is some fuel in the bowl, you should have seen some squirt out the shooters when working the throttle. We know there's at least some fuel, even if its low level or it wouldn't run at all. If the engine rpm can be very slowly increased (in neutral) thats another indicator the problem is pump shot, rather than low bowl level or clogged idle-low speed system.