Stock Rods the way they're ment to be!

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NorthernSwede

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Luleå, Sweden
Stock mopar 318 rods grinded, sanded, glass shot and shot peened!
Matched weight on all rods
Balanced
Big ends are going through the maschine on monday
ARP bolts are ordered

Stock stuff works great!



Best regards from Sweden and hope you have some beter weather than our -32 degreed Celsius!




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aka 360 rods.

I have 4 sets blasted myself, 2 are bushed [I taped up that part]

You should polish the side beams and match weight them afterwards.

The proform rod fixture for weighing is nice have around.
 
They are already balanced and matchweighted ;) Polishing is really not needed, don't gain very much by it and it's a lot of work! (Done it before)

Best Regards!
 
Most importantly resize the big end, if they are out of spec, and use heavy duty rod bolts. I polish the sides, where they touch each other, with 600 wet or dry paper on a flat surface and WD-40. Nice work by the way. We finally just started warming up here, 60's F yesterday and today.
 
Those look great. Ain't no chebbie rods look like that.
 
Yup, I will, I have a set of Arp bolt already but they're used so I will use the new set when it arrives =)

Ahhhh, I wouldn't do that if it were me.

Have the rods resized with the CORRECT, going-to-be-used bolts.

Wouldn't it have been easier to get a set of SCAT I-beams...and have the bonus of lighter weight?? Just askin'...
 
Stock mopar 318 rods grinded, sanded, glass shot and shot peened!
Matched weight on all rods
Balanced
Big ends are going through the maschine on monday
ARP bolts are ordered

Stock stuff works great!



Best regards from Sweden and hope you have some beter weather than our -32 degreed Celsius!

nice seing your going forward!


hey just go alitle to the south and you will find sligtly better wheather atleast the way it looks on the thermometer... how far north are you? would gues close to the arctic cirkle
 
No worries mate, the rods will be perfect even with the "wrong", and hey, if they're not I'll just run them through again and run other bearings. I don't mount anything that isn't within tolerances in my engine! Sure I could have bought new I-beams but these rods from total stock to this cost me grinding material and Arp bolts and nothing more so saving a bit of cash and the mopar rods hold up to my build with TONS left!

Simple fact regarding the bolts is that if you do a good job when you do it there really such a small difference between two bolts of the same brand that it most likely won't even show on the indicator clock when I measure the rod, and if it do it's well inside the tolerances. Just saying. Done it before and one of the engines I know that also did it has ran 340000kilometers by now without isues!

Duster340 - Thanks mate! Yeah it's quite alot better in the south already here in Luleå where I live most of the time it's alot better... only 27-C today! I was in Ohtanajärvi when I wrote and I think that's even above the circle ;)
 
Wouldn't it have been easier to get a set of SCAT I-beams...and have the bonus of lighter weight?? Just askin'...

And cheaper too..if you go by the prices i've seen..
 
Ahhhh, I wouldn't do that if it were me.

Have the rods resized with the CORRECT, going-to-be-used bolts.

Wouldn't it have been easier to get a set of SCAT I-beams...and have the bonus of lighter weight?? Just askin'...

This thread isn't about what rods you recommend or use, it's about his stock rods and the prep he doing to them.](*,)
I can have rods redone w/arp bolts $145, it's only around $9 a rod + bolts and popping them in.

most machinist are lazy in the sense that they'd rather overcharge so that you skip having them run the rods back and forth on a sunnen and just buy already done pieces.



btw Good job Northernswede.
 
so you guys think stock rods with the arp bolts will take the same hp as the scat i beams?
 
so you guys think stock rods with the arp bolts will take the same hp as the scat i beams?

Properly prepared they will take more. the Scat pieces are overseas chinese metal. I would rather have CHRYSLER castings any day and do um up right.
 
They are already balanced and matchweighted ;) Polishing is really not needed, don't gain very much by it and it's a lot of work! (Done it before)

Best Regards!

Polishing prevents stress cracks from forming I will have to get a pic of my polished and balanced rods.
 
Properly prepared they will take more. the Scat pieces are overseas chinese metal. I would rather have CHRYSLER castings any day and do um up right.

I believe the 340 rods done right [1st rebuild] will handle the same or more as well.

Those 340 rods are beefier than a sbc/bbc/ford.


I've taken them 7500 rpm with no issues.
 
I have run the to 7500 also.but wouldn't takin out 100 grams per rod be better? also the scats have 71/6 bolts so wouldn't they be a upgrade? i read other forums where scat is a great rod. just wondering because i am looking at 600+hp and a nos shot for my motor.
 
Properly prepared they will take more. the Scat pieces are overseas chinese metal. I would rather have CHRYSLER castings any day and do um up right.

X2!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would Much rather re-do my LY big block rods from 1966 than touch cheapass chinese crap. Chinese metallurgy and junk go hand in hand. They ALWAYS find a way to rip us off. And why would they care?
 
The chebbie boys worship the scat stuff cause naturally, it came out for them first. They run to scarf it up not knowin or carin where it comes from. It's cheap chinese metal, no matter how you slice it. The 318, 340 and 360 rods are all bigger and stronger than even the best big block chevy rod ever in a factory procuction engine. I just built a LS5 454 and I put the rods side by side with some 360 rods I had. Although the big chebbie rods are longer, that's the only dimension that's bigger. The small Mopar rods are way beefier. I don't care how light the scat stuff is....in fact, that scares me. A crap metal rod that's light. Do I need to keep talkin? LOL
 
Duster340 - Thanks mate! Yeah it's quite alot better in the south already here in Luleå where I live most of the time it's alot better... only 27-C today! I was in Ohtanajärvi when I wrote and I think that's even above the circle ;)

hey thats kind of ok up there where the air is so dry, did 10months of service in the cold and beutifull north so i have a clue about how it is up there8)
Ohtanajärvi sounds like far out in lappmarkerna!
 
I have run the to 7500 also.but wouldn't takin out 100 grams per rod be better? also the scats have 71/6 bolts so wouldn't they be a upgrade? i read other forums where scat is a great rod. just wondering because i am looking at 600+hp and a nos shot for my motor.


Yes lighter is better, but say you are going to use light weight piston$ like ross/weisco/diamond/cp, and a lighter weight forged crank, basically the best or close to.......why wouldn't you then buy the lighter/stonger h beams in 1st place and skip the replacement entry level performance rods?
I'm not saying they aren't good or don't have they're place...cause they great and can be cheaper for some, but not all.

For the price vs gain seen/felt in a few less grams in the average 400-500hp 'in the con rod area', I think it's like spending to sleep better at night.

In your build I would be purchasing some h beams.

fwiw I have seen and worked on a lot of rods, mopar & pontiac have some of the best stock rods, chevys and sb fords [mainly chevy]are the worst for distortion/twist even in the most stock of builds.

How many little 318/273 floater rods have you seen break?
Even those rods are better than a 5.4/5.7 rod.

just puttin it out there fwiw.
 
The chebbie boys worship the scat stuff cause naturally, it came out for them first. They run to scarf it up not knowin or carin where it comes from. It's cheap chinese metal, no matter how you slice it. The 318, 340 and 360 rods are all bigger and stronger than even the best big block chevy rod ever in a factory procuction engine. I just built a LS5 454 and I put the rods side by side with some 360 rods I had. Although the big chebbie rods are longer, that's the only dimension that's bigger. The small Mopar rods are way beefier. I don't care how light the scat stuff is....in fact, that scares me. A crap metal rod that's light. Do I need to keep talkin? LOL

Nope,not to me! The rule of thumb in my house;If it's made in china expect it to last until the warrantee is up and no more. An yet my LY rods are 46 yrs old and better IMHO than new china crap. WHY? Because EVERYTHING I buy from China friggin breaks sooner than it should. It's all about thier attitude towards customer service,which is basically gimmie your $$ and get lost.

Stuff made here in the musclecar era was meant to last. Who cares if it's 40+ years old? It' was built to take that and then some. Chrysler overbuilt and over engineered EVERYTHING in those days.

I'd like to see a scat rod last that long.
 
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