Stock Stroke Versus Stroker Combo !

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SS Lancer

SS Lancer

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Thank you all for the info over the Last month with my many many questions pertaining to my 340 Gasser combo .
Well after lots of consideration and input from forum and lack of Lite Pistons with north of 11.50.1 compression 3.31 stroke using my new 340 Rpm heads im considering just buying a 4.0 stroke aftermarket crank and going that route because endless piston selection for the 4.0 stroke 6.123 rod combinations.
I really like the 340 big bore short stroke traditional high rev combo but the Stroker route might make more sense and I have not had my factory crank ground yet so now is the time to make my mind up and would like the input from forum thanks Chris .
 
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Just remember when you are trying to duplicate an engine from a Racing ragazine you have to do some simple math to get the honest horsepower figures.


1. Subtract 10% for dyno calibration
2. Subtract 5% for bad math.
3. Subtract 3-5% for BS.
 
pittsburghracer said:
Just remember when you are trying to duplicate an engine from a Racing ragazine you have to do some simple math to get the honest horsepower figures.


1. Subtract 10% for dyno calibration
2. Subtract 5% for bad math.
3. Subtract 3-5% for BS.
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True that. Good thing I put that disclaimer in my post. :lol:
 
toolmanmike said:
True that. Good thing I put that disclaimer in my post. :lol:
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Any good or bad feedback on this crank ???
I read some companies cranks are harder to balance than others ???

Screenshot_2018-07-23-10-32-07.png
 
Good crank. Have one in a 418 shortblock i am going to use in the near future. Along with scat rods and icon forged flattop pistons.
Generally speaking( all things being exactly the same) a 4 inch crank motor will be 3 to 4 tenths quicker than stock stroke deal.
Ken Hensley from Hensley performance told me that years ago and it has always stuck.
 
Looks like Summit is cheaper and then find a 10% off coupon floating around. I've been seeing lots of them floating around lately.
 
Before you do anything, get your block sonic checked to be sure it's build able. Tell them you plan to stroke it so they check it deeper in the thrust areas.
 
I think there is a misconception about strokers. No reason they won't rev up as well. A 4" stroke in a LA block will rev up no problem.

I am going the scat full kit route right now. I have spoken to them several times and they have a lot of custom choices to suit your needs. You need to decide if you want 2618 or 4032 forged pistons. Decide on the advantages and disadvantages of each material. I don't think for the horsepower you are planning you need to spend for a forged crank. If you are setting up for transbrake launches etc, then maybe but 500 HP you can save some money with the Scat cast crank. Then upgrade to customize your total SCR or piston material. But if you are doing a standard kit. Summit gives you $50-$100 back on the kit till the end of august.
 
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stumblinhorse said:
I think there is a misconception about strokers. Now reason they won't rev up as well. A 4" stroke in a LA block will rev up no problem.

I am going the scat full kit route right now. I have spoken to them several times and they have a lot of custom choices to suit your needs. You need to decide if you want 2618 or 4032 forged pistons. Decide on the advantages and disadvantages of each material. I don't think for the horsepower you are planning you need to spend for a forged crank. If you are setting up for transbrake launches etc, then maybe but 500 HP you can save some money with the Scat cast crank. Then upgrade to customize your total SCR or piston material. But if you are doing a standard kit. Summit gives you $50-$100 back on the kit till the end of august.
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Having broken a cast 4 inch crank running 10.40’s at 3300 ish pounds and driven over it, i would never recommend a cast stroker crank for anything that sees dragstrip use making 500+ horsepower. That crank had neverr seen a tbrake launch( Eagle)
For just a few hundred bucks difference you can sleep WAY better at night. And in the whole scheme of building a motor the price difference between the two cranks is negligable.
Do it once, do it right. Strongly urge going forged
 
There have been a bunch of broken Eagle cast cranks but I've never heard of Scat cast crank breaking if using for the power it was designed for. I agree if it's going to be on the track a bunch or turned up, buy forged.
 
justinp61 said:
There have been a bunch of broken Eagle cast cranks but I've never heard of Scat cast crank breaking if using for the power it was designed for. I agree if it's going to be on the track a bunch or turned up, buy forged.
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True. But few years back nobody used Scat Mopar stroker stuff. It was almost all Eagle or Mopar( which i think was actually Eagle)??
So some of that is related to how many people have actually ran a given crank to have it break.
More people use Scat now, but didnt then i guess is what i am saying.
Once you have driven over anything cast, like i have..... your perspective changes rather quickly..... lol
 
I think the point is that up to about 500 HP you are fine with Cast. Over that you should spend the extra $500 and get forged. If you are building a 500+hp engine you have the money anyway :)
 
stumblinhorse said:
I think the point is that up to about 500 HP you are fine with Cast. Over that you should spend the extra $500 and get forged. If you are building a 500+hp engine you have the money anyway :)
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I guess my point is why risk it. And secondly, few people i know ever stop the quest to go faster.
Building even a truly 500 horse smallblock isnt cheap.
Just saying even at that power level i would go with a forged crank because i dont have the extra money to build another motor if the bottom end lets go. Maybe you do.
Through the school of hard knocks i have learned its typically better to spend the little extra to build in a safety margin and for future upgrades. I know i will never again build a stroker anything with a cast crank. It only took me once to learn that
Your results may vary.
 
I bought a very nice 340 block already machined, balanced assembly, scat rods, Diamond pistons, cam and lifters, oil pan, scat cast crank, and a few other goodies. Deal was to good to turn down but I ended up selling it after I slept on it for a week. It’s not hard to build a small block Mopar that puts out over 500 horsepower and I knew I had to let it go. A guy drove from Massachusetts or somewhere up there to Pa to pick it up. He’s happy, I’m happy. I honestly fell better about my Son running low to mid 10’s with a stock 360 crank with nice big radius’s than I do a cast aftermarket crank.
 
Maybe I am doing it wrong! My math is not getting me anywhere near 500HP. So I am sticking with cast.

I am doing a 390 stroker with 2.02/1.60 171 intake runner AL heads with hydraulic Roller that is 230/236 at .050 and .540+/- lift on both sides. 2618 pistons at 11:1 compression. I don't think it is going to be anywhere near 500 HP. The build is right at $4500. So an extra $500 is a lot for me. But agree that if you have the money it is not a bad idea to buy forged. Because yes, if you are able to do a 500+HP small block $500 is nothing.
 
Actually the Eagle cast were bad for big horsepower. Scat cast were the ones Mopar badged and sold as there own, and I know of serval surpassing 600hp NA, with nitrous on top of that and they've lived just fine. But - cast cranks need Mallory to internally balance and that's what you want. The difference between good cast crank cost and the forged cranks is probably less than $200 when you include the cost of the Mallory.
The difference between 3.31" stroke and 500hp and 4" 500hp is only the rom and the matching torque curve. The 340 will be nasty - rough idle, high rpm, needing gear and convertor... The 416 will do it with a moderate idle and run as fast with 3.23s as that 340 with 4.30s. Money wise the 4" is 30-40% more cash outlay. Sonic test the block.
 
Scat 4-340-4000-6123 Forged Steel Standard Weight Crankshaft

probably the best price ...bought one from there a few months ago...

I have a 4 inch stroker engine with that Scat 4340 crank. It uses the Scat i Beam rods and KB 744 flat top pistons....It took mallory metal also...

Have another 4 inch stroker with a K1 4340 crank with the same rods and pistons. It took a small slug of mallory....it has a bobweight of 1810 grams..
 
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My forged Scat crank needed no mallory to balance, we had to remove a little weight. I agree with the others, in the grand scheme of things if you can afford to go forged I'd do it. It allows peace of mind and the ability add more power later.
 
Which class are you wanting to run in? How much does the Henry J weigh , don't you have to add weight to run more inches? What gears are you running? Are you going to have the heads ported? The stock stroke combo may be better in a weight to cubic inches class, especially with limited heads. The Southeast Gassers are going to be in my neck of the woods this weekend. They were here last year too. The bleachers were full and it was standing room only the full eighth mile! I am sure it will be even more crowded this year. They definitely need more mopars! How about some pictures of the Henry J ?
 
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