Stopped Starting... Stumped.......

Electrical and Ignition

  1. seabee

    seabee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    A few days ago I lost my keys and used a newly cut spare to move the car out of he garage for a few minutes. Went to move it back in and it wouldn't start back up. Jumping it across the starter relay it fires right up.

    I get 12v to the ignition switch but nothing when turning the key to ign.

    I took out the ignition switch (replaced a few years ago) and the connection from the battery post to the ign post connects when the key is fully turned. On position tests fine as well.

    The Ign wire from the ignition switch connctor to bulkhead tests fine.

    The neutral safety switch also tests fine.

    When testing for 12v at the bulkhead on the ign connection with the key fully turned: Nothing, 0v.

    So the problem appears to be happening at the ignition switch even though it tests out fine.

    Any Ideas?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. barracudadave67

    barracudadave67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I would make sure the bulkhead connections are good: IE no corosion, and tight. I am going thru this right now on a Cuda I just bought. I am going to put new connectors on all connections. My car just arrived from CA.

    Dave
     
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    • barracudadave67

      barracudadave67 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Especially check the connection at bulkhead,where the wire from alternator goes thru, that pulls a lot of current, and is a trouble spot. It feeds the amp gage, if your system id stock.
      Dave
       
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      • MOPAROFFICIAL

        MOPAROFFICIAL FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Check for power in and out of the ballast resistor.
         
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        • seabee

          seabee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Thanks Dave,

          I have a volt meter installed with the bypass. The car runs great with minimal voltage drop (just tested @ .04v). Did a total connector clean out and replaced the engine bay harness a few years back. Car gets driven almost daily.


          I think I have pinpointed it to the at the ignition switch. Or maybe the starter relay? I have an old SR around here somewhere. Going to swap it out and see.
           
        • seabee

          seabee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Thanks MP. Have an HEI dist so the BR is bypassed. 12v to the post though. Seems to have 12v all the way to the ignition switch. Since the switch and connection back to the bulkhead test out on the ohms meter I wonder if something is shorted out or broken in the starter relay? I'll report back in a few.
           
        • 4spdragtop

          4spdragtop CONGRATS NORTH AMERICA! FABO Gold Member

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          Im not much help but I always carry a spare ign switch. Quick 2 min swap may fix the issue
           
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          • 67Dart273

            67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            You are confused, or at least you have ME confused

            You SAID

            "I get 12v to the ignition switch but nothing when turning the key to ign."

            Are you talking about "run" or "start?"

            because PREVIOUSLY you said........

            "Jumping it across the starter relay it fires right up."

            So you are talking about the START circuit? (YELLOW) What YEAR is your car? seat belt interlock?
             
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            • seabee

              seabee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Start. On the ignition switch that post is labeled "ing"

              All of my car's info is right there in my signature.

              Edit: just remembered mobile browsers won't show sigs. It's a 66 Barracuda
               
              Last edited: Jul 7, 2017
            • seabee

              seabee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              It was the starter relay.
               
            • MOPAROFFICIAL

              MOPAROFFICIAL FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Glad it's fixed.
               
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              • seabee

                seabee FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Kind of telling that the 50year old USA original goes back in to replace a 3 year old "Hecho in Mexico" part.
                 
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                • MOPAROFFICIAL

                  MOPAROFFICIAL FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Yep, really frustrating when you kinda assume a part is good and within the life expectancy...so you go spinning your wheels in other areas to diagnose the problem... but turns out to just be the cheap or poorly made replacement part you've rec3ntly changed.
                  I've had that issue with voltage regulators, long story short...avoid duralast anything and most electrical parts from "the zone".
                   
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