Store Bare Engine Block

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Lord Sparky

Lord Sparky

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What is the best way to store a bare V8 engine block to prevent rust? I thought about spraying it with WD-40, wrapping it in plastic, and putting one of those Renewable Mini Dehumidifiers inside the bag (the kind you plug in to dry it out). Any better methods?
 
WD won't cut it. It's a very light duty oil.
LPS3 in a spray can, or Cosmoline like Garrett suggested. Long term storage solutions make use of a wax like coating which helps effectively seal the surface.
 
If you want it to rust, use WD40. Transmission fluid in a spray bottle. Then get a big heavy duty engine bag, bag it up and put it in the house.
 
I used heavy bearing grease on machined surfaces and then a large yard style garbage bag to help with all the airborne dust and dirt off.
 
i always wanted to try putting one in a barrel of oil with just enough oil to cover the top. never did try it though. seems like it would work. i rebuilt a trans in a 2 ton chevy truck in my days as a chevy mechanic and some of the internal parts were covered in cosmoline and they were a ***** to clean.
 
Cosmoline is what I use. Grease is not the best because it will absorb moisture and turn milky.
 
Lord Sparky said:
What is the best way to store a bare V8 engine block to prevent rust? I thought about spraying it with WD-40, wrapping it in plastic, and putting one of those Renewable Mini Dehumidifiers inside the bag (the kind you plug in to dry it out). Any better methods?
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motorcycle PJ1 chain lube, it's a spray can it goes on thin and watery (so it will go EVERYWHERE) it then turns into a thick grease and it made for keeping dirt and moisture out (it's made for dirt bikes) it's about 10 maybe 12 dollars a can and a can will do a whole engine block with some left over. getting it off involves lots of brake cleaner, lol
Pete
 
ul4evr said:
motorcycle PJ1 chain lube, it's a spray can it goes on thin and watery (so it will go EVERYWHERE) it then turns into a thick grease and it made for keeping dirt and moisture out (it's made for dirt bikes) it's about 10 maybe 12 dollars a can and a can will do a whole engine block with some left over. getting it off involves lots of brake cleaner, lol
Pete
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Many chain lubes have wax on them. They're suspended in solvent that flashes off and leaves the good thick stuff behind. It's less sticky (than grease, still plenty sticky though) and stays stuck good and acts as a barrier much like the LPS or coamoline.
 
rbkt65 said:
i always wanted to try putting one in a barrel of oil with just enough oil to cover the top. never did try it though. seems like it would work. i rebuilt a trans in a 2 ton chevy truck in my days as a chevy mechanic and some of the internal parts were covered in cosmoline and they were a ***** to clean.
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Oil can absorb stuff and acidify. Any exposure to water or moisture will also cause sludge that can still rust or corrode metal it's in contact with.

I wouldn't leave the parts in the bottom of the barrel, as a result.

Anything that will be good at preserving parts will be a ***** to clean off. That's how you know it works :D
 
If you've got a parts washer, ZEP dynablue 143 will clean any kind of petroleum wax off of about anything. Wear gloves, it absorbs through skin and will cause muscle cramps and other unpleasant side effects from nerve damage.
 
Thanks for all these great ideas! I read that you can remove LPS3 or Cosmoline with any petroleum solvent (eg mineral spirits, paint thinner, naphtha, diesel, etc.). I also saw that LPS PreSolve Orange Degreaser works well or LPS A-151 Ready-to-Use Degreaser. Hopefully it won't be too difficult to get it out of all the engine block's internal nooks and crannies. I wonder if the Cosmoline is made out of ear wax?
 
From Wikipedia:
Chemically, cosmoline is a homogeneous mixture of oily and waxy long-chain, non-polar hydrocarbons. It is always brown in color, but can differ in viscosity and shear strength. Cosmoline melts at 113–125 °F (45–52 °C) and has a flash point of 365 °F (185 °C).
I have known of people to leave firearm parts in direct sunlight and then use a shark handheld steamer to remove it from fire arm parts. Chlorinated brake cleaner (trichloroethylene) works the best of anything I have tried but would probably get expensive quickly on an entire engine block. Diesel fuel works wonderfully, though.
 
Lord Sparky said:
I wonder if the Cosmoline is made out of ear wax?
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Yes, I believe it is.
I've had surplus rifles that were put up in cosmoline 60+ years ago come out of it looking brand new. Lots of rags and then solvent to break down the last bits.
I like LPS3 and it isn't bad to clean off. On an engine I'd take it to the shop and run it through the tank/washer. On my lathes and mill I just put a heat lamp on the area and wipe it off. Whatever is left becomes part of the way lube and continuous protective shield
 
I just finished treating 5 crankshafts with cosomoline for storage. It works great.
 
I sprayed the engine block with two cans of LPS3 and wrapped it in 1000 layers of stretch wrap. Archeologists will wonder what it is.

C442DEEA-0CA9-495A-A8D3-8642D46E97C5.jpeg
 
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